Another Wheel Bearing Question, Rear this time...

[slavrenz]

brand SKF part number BR930114

That's weird. The picture shows an ABS cog on the assembly, but then the description says "Does Not Include ABS cog".

If you have rear discs without ABS, this will work just fine. If you do have ABS, this will only work if it does in fact include the toothed cog.

 

[MazdaSpeeder]

I've found that to be the case too. I ordered one that showed the ABS cog and even said it was for ABS, but it was not. Get it on ebay...they're cheap and when I pulled my old OEM, the part number and brand on the bearing matched with my new ebay one.

 

[slavrenz]

I've found that to be the case too. I ordered one that showed the ABS cog and even said it was for ABS, but it was not. Get it on ebay...they're cheap and when I pulled my old OEM, the part number and brand on the bearing matched with my new ebay one.

Or RockAuto.com, ftw. Personally, I don't trust eBay for critical car parts like this. Too many shady dealers.

 

[MazdaSpeeder]

Or RockAuto.com, ftw. Personally, I don't trust eBay for critical car parts like this. Too many shady dealers.

Don't buy the SKF on closeout on rockauto...I bought that and it is NOT for ABS. They only have the part for $140ish plus shipping, which is why I went to ebay and got it for half of that. If you want the username of the seller I used, I'd be happy to PM it. A few other guys bought from him and all have been pretty happy.

 

[slavrenz]

Don't buy the SKF on closeout on rockauto...I bought that and it is NOT for ABS. They only have the part for $140ish plus shipping, which is why I went to ebay and got it for half of that. If you want the username of the seller I used, I'd be happy to PM it. A few other guys bought from him and all have been pretty happy.

Good deal. Yeah, RockAuto is actually whereI saw the picture of the SKF bearing that says "Does not include ABS cog." Sometimes they have weird quirks to their website like that.

 

[Shi-Fu JaY]

The one I got from Pepboys from SKF had the cog ring....you just pound it off and you have yourself a non abs bearing.....im just upset I paid $120 for the part

 

[msp5]

rear wheel bearings are atapered roller bearings, dont forget to pack them.They have grease in a can for wheel bearings.It says its for japaneese vehicles or something like that

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...icles-Valvoline_7070011-P_N3245_T|GRP2035____

 

[slavrenz]

rear wheel bearings are atapered roller bearings, dont forget to pack them.They have grease in a can for wheel bearings.It says its for japaneese vehicles or something like that

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...icles-Valvoline_7070011-P_N3245_T|GRP2035____

I highly doubt that. The bearing is integrated with the hub assembly (i.e., there's no way to disassemble it without ruining it).

I don't believe that tapered bearings are used on any of Mazda's passenger cars.

 

[slavrenz]

The one I got from Pepboys from SKF had the cog ring....you just pound it off and you have yourself a non abs bearing.....im just upset I paid $120 for the part

Or just don't worry about the cog because you can use the bearing with it still on. I don't think I'd bet on my klutzy ass not to accidentally damage the bearing when I was pounding off the ABS ring.

As for the price, yeah that sucks. RockAuto.com FTW

 

[MazdaSpeeder]

No need to grease the bearing...it is a contained unit. Just grease the axle a bit to help facilitate installation..

rear wheel bearings are atapered roller bearings, dont forget to pack them.They have grease in a can for wheel bearings.It says its for japaneese vehicles or something like that

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...icles-Valvoline_7070011-P_N3245_T|GRP2035____

 

[meGrimlock]

sorry for thread revival. I can start a new thread if forum rules dictate it.

I get ABS light, diag codes said Right Rear. tested with multimeter but the short leads couldn't get a proper voltage/resistance reading. i was ready to think it was a bad ABS sensor. The wheel sensor was clean. no dirt, very very few metal flakes. a little brake cleaner just the same but I still get the ABS light. however I had the wheel off and grabbed a wheel stud to rotate it.

I noticed when I rotated the hub from the stud, all 5 studs wobbled up/down/left/right in unison. did not wobble back and forth. the brake rotor rotated w/o noticable issues. I just never noticed before, is this normal or a symptom of a bad wheel bearing? are there any other symptoms? I know my front bearings groaned at highway speeds. and finally the wheel wobbled all over the place. I am itchin' to buy either the wheel bearing or abs sensor, hopefully not both. thanks.

 

[pcb]

This is the "free play" limit as stated by the FSM:

If you can feel that wobble,... then your freeplay is WAY more than what the FSM would "allow".

However,... they do get a bit carried away with some of their specs. But with ball joints and wheel bearings,... any noticeable play is bad.

Your sensor may very well be fine,... it could be just too far away from the toothed ring to get a good reading because of the play in your bearing. A new wheel hub may very well fix your sensor issue.


Here's RockAuto's selection: Make sure you get one for "ABS" (a toothed ring)

 

[pcb]

sorry for thread revival. I can start a new thread if forum rules dictate it.

Actually,.. you did what you are supposed to do. Threads get revived because they are common issues,.... and it shows you've done some research.

http://www.albinoblacksheep.com/flash/posting

 

[meGrimlock]

hmm. you'll have to dumb it down for me as i'm trying to figure out what axial direction is.

if i'm looking straight at the brake rotor facing the side of the car. axial is pushing and pulling the direction of rear bumper to front bumper? or is it pushing and pulling towards and away from me?

without any tools from pushing and pulling bumper to bumper, i'd estimate about 2mm in all directions.

 

[pcb]

Axial means in and out,... along the axis,... but it doesn't matter. 2mm / 0.05mm is 40 times more movement than you're supposed to have.

These are the specs for the speed sensor:

If you've got 2mm of movement,.. you may have moved your sensor clearance way out of spec, so it can't read the wheels rotation.

Generally speaking if you can feel the movement it's time to replace it. (I wait until I feel movement,... 0.05mm is ridiculous tolerance,... same goes for ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar links.... )

Remember that 2mm gets multiplied further out from the axis,... so where the rubber hits the road you could have 2 or three times more movement. Put your wheel back on and wobble it around and you'll see (with the wheel lifted off the ground),... that will wear out your tires and make it unstable especially on front wheels.


I just noticed the resistance inspection is listed in my post,... you could check that too but I think the connector is buried in the hatch area.
You should just replace the rear hub assembly,.. then worry about the sensor if it doesn't start reading.



Check out this thread,... you may have a seizure to deal with and your bearing might be stuck too,....

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123830608-help-seized-wheel-hub-assembly

 

[meGrimlock]

took the wheel off again and moved it around. forgot the brake/wheel is hubcentric, not lugcentric. so when I rotate the lugs, it has freeplay between the rotor and the lugs beneath it. when I hold and rotate the rotor, there is no free play in any direction. so i'm imagining a bad hub, and its probably just the sensor and the hub can hold off a little while longer (no other symptoms as of yet) is that a valid assumption on my part? i'll try to post a .GIF or something.

 

[pcb]

took the wheel off again and moved it around. forgot the brake/wheel is hubcentric, not lugcentric. so when I rotate the lugs, it has freeplay between the rotor and the lugs beneath it. when I hold and rotate the rotor, there is no free play in any direction. so i'm imagining a bad hub, and its probably just the sensor and the hub can hold off a little while longer (no other symptoms as of yet) is that a valid assumption on my part? i'll try to post a .GIF or something.

OK,... that makes sense. There is a bit of movement around the lugs. It's the lug nuts that hold everything tight.

Check your clearance on your sensor. The little nib on tip of the sensor may have corroded away increasing the clearance. If that is the case, I would try to move it closer by filing one of the holes that the mounting screws go through so you can rotate it closer.