After Timing Belt Install=Loss of Timing/Stalling

[hornsfan10609]

The cam would most likely break if the caps were over torqued so that probably isn't it. The belt is pretty simple it's got to be an easy fix.

On a completely random note, do you have a clip of your exhaust?

 

[speedin]

I could get 1 but I no longer have that flowmaster if that's what you're looking for. It had an awesome tone, not too ricey not too loud.

 

[hornsfan10609]

I just deleted both cats and I like it but it's too quiet (I thought it would be LOUD without cats). I would like to hear the factory muffler without the resonator or cats.

 

[speedin]

Right now it's just a straight pipe with no cats no resonator no muffler and very loud kinda like a rally car. with that set up and a factory muffler a has a nice purr to it but not too loud. if you can find some clips on youtube with either borla or magna flow sounds the same as the flowmaster.

 

[jdwk]

I just did mine last week, and of course ended up doing it twice because I was off by a tooth on both cams my first attempt and it ran slightly better than awful.

It looks like the belt is putting increasing tension on the tensioner. That means that the slack that is supposed to be towards the tensioner and spread out evenly with a single rotation is being taken away from the tensioner, almost like the cams are at unequal rotational speeds which just does not seem possible.

I would leave the VC off, pull the spark plugs, and spin the crank by hand slowly to see how the tension is being distributed. I am very curious how this turns out. I am always impressed at how seemingly impossible things turn out to be something so simple.

You might actually need a new timing belt though once you figure it out. You aren't supposed to put any more stress on it than what the spring provides.

 

[speedin]

I have not had any time to tear back into it yet but I am thinking of putting the tensioner belt bolt to snug (just to see how it runs with just the spring for tension). My other thought is, is there supposed to be a washer or something to help keep movement of the tensioner with the need of increase/decreased tension between the block and tensioner? I will be back in town on Saturday and hopefully digging in on Sunday.

 

[jdwk]

There is no washer. The tensioner should spin around freely with no belt or spring on it. With the spring on it and an allen wrench it is still possible to spin the tensioner past the peak tension point and come full circle.

 

[speedin]

OK, so today i dug into it again. I went through and retorqued the cam bolts to 100 in/lbs as suggested ealier in the thread, i retimed it again for it to run for about 5 seconds before it craps out. i tear it down and put the old tensioner in, retime it again and then it runs for about 12 seconds before it craps out. I tightened the tensioner bolt to about 60 ft/lbs before connecting the spring both times to makesure there was still movement on the tensioner while tight. I am at a total loss right now and about to throw in the towel. Please throw any ideas out there you might have. I checked the belt to make sure it is the correct one AGAIN and cross-referenced with numerous brands.

 

[jdwk]

Maybe there is someone on here close to you who could come take a look. I just can't tell from the video what is happening. Did you ever try spinning it by hand?

 

[speedin]

update......... i retimed everything AGAIN but this time i only tightened the tensioner bolt to just past snug. the car ran without shutting off in my driveway for about 30 min and then i went for a drive with it running pretty good. i did not go very far and will leave it running in my driveway this evening to see how she goes but i am now thinking i will just have to put some locktight on the bolt and tighten it to just past snug????????!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! very wierd to me.

 

[jdwk]

Ok weird. So are you sure you have the right bolt on the tensioner? With it tightened all the way down, the tensioner pulley should spin around as freely as a rollerblade wheel without the spring on it.

I am thinking you either have the wrong bolt or it is the wrong tensioner and tightening it down isn't allowing the tensioner to spin. What we are seeing in the video isn't the tensioner rotating on its bearing, but the tensioner actually turning with its bolt counter clockwise loosening up.

With the bolt on just barely, it seems like the tensioner is able to spin and it rotates to the proper tension. This is not a good solution though, as you don't want to risk it coming loose while you are driving.