worth getting AP (only cobb sri + inlet)

stageup

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i tried to search, didn't find anything

is it worth the 600-700 for just an AP if you're not gonna get anything else?
i only have the cobb inlet + sri (now that it's carb legal, i can leave them on)

pros: driveability, increased redline ?
cons: $ spent buying? lol

altho my smog check isn't until 2012, i think the dp is gonna cause more traction issues no? 1st and 2nd are already useless, so wouldn't the dp make it worse? or is everyone getting it because 3rd and up is where it matters?

debating what to do right now
 
i was thinking the same thing last week only having the sri tip and test pipe. and everyone said yes. you will hold boost til red line. power will come on smoother and harder. mpg will increase(if u keep your foot out of it lol) everyone said it is the best mod for this car.

u can usually find a used one on her for 510-550$. i got mine for 520 shipped to canada
 
Ive got an intake only and it gave me a ton of power (+50hp/tq)

Pros: AP can grow with you as modding increases
ATR allows you to tune the car yourself (free)
Launch Control & Flat Foot Shifting
Hold power to redline
Datalogging
Can function as a gauge if you dont have any

Cons: Some guys cant use the OTS maps that come with the ap for some reason or another and need to make a custom map
Make the map yourself (free)
Get an E-Tune from cobb (~200-300 bucks)
get a protune at a shop (~500)

getting a downpipe without a tune is dangerous IMO. It allows for boost creep and huge boost spikes. It will give you some power, but without a tune you're not using it to its full potential
 
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Ive got an intake only and it gave me a ton of power (+50hp/tq)

Pros: AP can grow with you as modding increases
ATR allows you to tune the car yourself (free)
Launch Control & Flat Foot Shifting
Hold power to redline
Datalogging
Can function as a gauge if you dont have any

Cons: Some guys cant use the OTS maps that come with the ap for some reason or another and need to make a custom map
Make the map yourself (free)
Get an E-Tune from cobb (~200-300 bucks)
get a protune at a shop (~500)

getting a downpipe without a tune is dangerous IMO. It allows for boost creep and huge boost spikes. It will give you some power, but without a tune you're not using it to its full potential

I call shenanigans. The only way that an AP would give you 50 HP is if the holy spirit manifested himself in the form of an AP, and then found its way to your super jesus car.
 
see attached dynos, ive since been retuned and put down 250whp/275wtq on a mustang dyno. the AMR tune put down 230/260 on the same mustang. so ive got a bit more power now. Jesus Rocks!

I am on the east coast and have 93 octane too, so that may be whats holding you cali guys back. that and those retarted CARB laws.
 

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yes its worth it. the gains will be similar to an upgraded TMIC on the stock tune(about 15-20hp) depending on your other mods and how well your car runs on the map

but you will make power nearly to 7k rev limit.

if you can, throw in a TP and run stage 2. you will then pull all the way to rev limiter.

most of the cars are had from 5700 to 7k where the stock tune falls short.im holding 17+lbs of boost in 2nd, 18 in 3rd, high 18's-19's 4th, and 20 in 5th and 6th

try and get a ap and tp. stage 2 is so much better than stage 1
 
8.5MS3
there is no way you gained 50hp. maybe you had a boost leak on the stock air box or something and when you got the intake. you sealed up the leak somehow but 50hp gain isnt happening unless your car is a superduper factory freak
 
a leak wouldve caused trims to be off, not power. this is a protune not OTS. The first pull was with all my mods on and no tune. if I had any sort of power robbing problem it would show in both pulls since nothing was touched under the hood.
 
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50 whp is streching it thats for sure...But with the right tuner who knows..and that dyno graph doesnt lie. so thats good stuff. Ill be happy if i get 280 whp with my current mods from a protune via Tim Baily @ surgeline.
 
thanks man, i dont understand why whenever someone gets good gains with this platform everyone's gotta knock it. Akuma is owned by John from Cobb/Precision, so yea its a good shop.

suprised no one bashed the 100whp/tq increase at 6-6.5k
 
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not bashing man, just sounds really inflated. one b/c it looks like you said you achieved these numbers on different dynos.

50hp doesnt sound possible with an intake and tune.
 
i shouldve elaborated. the first two dynos were at the same shop when i got my first protune. I had all the mods in my sig already on the car. first run (228hp) was on the stock tune. tuned run was amr's custom map (265hp) set to 20psi. I then went to akuma and did a baseline pull of that map on his mustang dyno. That dyno rated amr's tune at 230whp/260wtq. this is expected b/c a mustang reads lower than any other dyno. I was then retuned at akuma and put down the 3rd dyno graph posted. The reason i got retuned can be found here: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123743268
 
i tried to search, didn't find anything

is it worth the 600-700 for just an AP if you're not gonna get anything else?
i only have the cobb inlet + sri (now that it's carb legal, i can leave them on)

pros: driveability, increased redline ?
cons: $ spent buying? lol

altho my smog check isn't until 2012, i think the dp is gonna cause more traction issues no? 1st and 2nd are already useless, so wouldn't the dp make it worse? or is everyone getting it because 3rd and up is where it matters?

debating what to do right now

Ap's can be bought new for $550.

Email this guy. I bought mine from him for $550 shipped, NEW.

sales@streetkingperformance.com
 
Yes. Even if you slap on just an intake "technically" you should buy an AP and have it tuned for it.

I don't want to go off topic but lately a lot of MS3 drivers seem to have been blowing their engines left and right. I ask myself "what the hell do you do to the car to blow it".... some are speculating on other forums that it's a design flaw....give me a break.

The problem is people buy aftermarket parts (i.e CAI, FMIC, etc) and pre-load some bulls*** pre-tuned maps "for the parts they have"- well don't be surprised if your s*** eventually blows down the road.

Others do mods, either heavy or mild- and don't even bother tuning; don't monitor their A/F ratios (Oh, the stories I heard about this one) or they don't even bother getting an AP for simple mods.

If you're going to mod (whether it's heavy or mild) don't cheap out; buy the AP and get your s*** dyno tuned. Take care of the car; monitor your car......other wise it's going to be ZOOM ZOOM BOOM.
 
Yes. Even if you slap on just an intake "technically" you should buy an AP and have it tuned for it.

I don't want to go off topic but lately a lot of MS3 drivers seem to have been blowing their engines left and right. I ask myself "what the hell do you do to the car to blow it".... some are speculating on other forums that it's a design flaw....give me a break.

The problem is people buy aftermarket parts (i.e CAI, FMIC, etc) and pre-load some bulls*** pre-tuned maps "for the parts they have"- well don't be surprised if your s*** eventually blows down the road.

Others do mods, either heavy or mild- and don't even bother tuning; don't monitor their A/F ratios (Oh, the stories I heard about this one) or they don't even bother getting an AP for simple mods.

If you're going to mod (whether it's heavy or mild) don't cheap out; buy the AP and get your s*** dyno tuned. Take care of the car; monitor your car......other wise it's going to be ZOOM ZOOM BOOM.

Do some more reading. Stock MS3's have blown in the same manner as heavily modded cars. It's my belief that all these cars will eventually blow. They will not die of old age.
 

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