Winter Journal
- Thread starter melicha8
- Start date
My Omp Exploded
...well not really. I took it apart and read on the forums that certain orings are prone to failure. The S4 mechanical OMP has four. Though I didn't directly find evidence pointing to it I figured I'd replace all of them. Here is the exploded view. It is so simple in construction.
Got this on ebay months ago. I figured the 5 minutes it took to install it was worth it. I need to bleed the line now but it's super short so no problem. I know it wasn't on my original chore list but I forgot about it. Bonus. I also ran over to napa auto parts and bought some plugs and 20-W50 Castrol.
...well not really. I took it apart and read on the forums that certain orings are prone to failure. The S4 mechanical OMP has four. Though I didn't directly find evidence pointing to it I figured I'd replace all of them. Here is the exploded view. It is so simple in construction.
Got this on ebay months ago. I figured the 5 minutes it took to install it was worth it. I need to bleed the line now but it's super short so no problem. I know it wasn't on my original chore list but I forgot about it. Bonus. I also ran over to napa auto parts and bought some plugs and 20-W50 Castrol.
Updated 12/14: The Emissions rack is finished. It got a good clean and the old rubber(now plastic) tubing got replaced with some silky smooth silicon line. The rack, affectionately known in the rotary world as the "rats nest", got painted too. I looked all over the forums for a diagram of an emissions rack with all the vacuum tubing on but most results were like every other thread, an argument without any substance. I finally turned to a Haynes manual for some support and found all I needed.
Last edited:
- :
- '13 CWP MS3 & '16 Mazda6 GT
holy crap thats a mess
Update:12/26
Kinda jumped around on the car today. I had to remove the OMP to add a little more tension to the regulator spring so it would fully return to its rest position. I found it easiest to pull out the small cotter pin in the pump body and add a turn and a half then press it back in with a punch. It was put back on and torqued down to 22 ftlbs which seems to be the value for most things bolted to the engine block.
I cut free the fuel lines running to the filter and return line coming from the gas tank. The filter was zip tied on(wtf) to the steel brake line so it was cut off but to my frustration the leftover tubing caused a siphoning effect on the tank and continued to piss gas all over the floor until I got a mason jar to transfer what I could catch to a gas can and clamp the tube with a pair of vise grips.
Spark plugs were replaced. Interestingly enough I found that my rear housing had the plugs reverse of the way the plugs are supposed to be installed with BUR7EQ(NGK) in the trailing position and BUR9EQ(NGK) in the leading position. The plugs are essentially the same except for the heat ranges but the cadmium plating on the trailing plug had no temperature discoloring like the other ones indicating it was running cooler than the other three. As the rear housing/rotor are more prone being the cause of engine failure I thought the switching of the plugs might be a means to counteract this by preventing preignition. Can anyone confirm my suspicion or was it purely incorrect installation. I applied anti-seize to the plug threads like a good little boy too. In the picture below it shows the order of removal. I don't know exactly how to read the plugs but at least they're the same. It looks like the trailing plugs are in a bit more rich an enviroment compared to the leading plugs judging from the carbonized electrodes.
I also bought me some BBS vert wheels. Just the best two they had and gave them a cursory cleaning today. They cleaned up real nice but one has a dent and some curb rash. I'm gonna take it to a local wheel repair shop to get a quote on the repair.
Here's a shot of the engine bay showing the initial build up process with last post's progress. Next step will be installation of the omp lines and vacuum spider. Notice also at the upper corner where my oil filter is supposed to be the neck is removed. This will be replaced with a neck that will have taps for the addition of oil pressure and temperature gauges which are on order.
Kinda jumped around on the car today. I had to remove the OMP to add a little more tension to the regulator spring so it would fully return to its rest position. I found it easiest to pull out the small cotter pin in the pump body and add a turn and a half then press it back in with a punch. It was put back on and torqued down to 22 ftlbs which seems to be the value for most things bolted to the engine block.
I cut free the fuel lines running to the filter and return line coming from the gas tank. The filter was zip tied on(wtf) to the steel brake line so it was cut off but to my frustration the leftover tubing caused a siphoning effect on the tank and continued to piss gas all over the floor until I got a mason jar to transfer what I could catch to a gas can and clamp the tube with a pair of vise grips.
Spark plugs were replaced. Interestingly enough I found that my rear housing had the plugs reverse of the way the plugs are supposed to be installed with BUR7EQ(NGK) in the trailing position and BUR9EQ(NGK) in the leading position. The plugs are essentially the same except for the heat ranges but the cadmium plating on the trailing plug had no temperature discoloring like the other ones indicating it was running cooler than the other three. As the rear housing/rotor are more prone being the cause of engine failure I thought the switching of the plugs might be a means to counteract this by preventing preignition. Can anyone confirm my suspicion or was it purely incorrect installation. I applied anti-seize to the plug threads like a good little boy too. In the picture below it shows the order of removal. I don't know exactly how to read the plugs but at least they're the same. It looks like the trailing plugs are in a bit more rich an enviroment compared to the leading plugs judging from the carbonized electrodes.
I also bought me some BBS vert wheels. Just the best two they had and gave them a cursory cleaning today. They cleaned up real nice but one has a dent and some curb rash. I'm gonna take it to a local wheel repair shop to get a quote on the repair.
Here's a shot of the engine bay showing the initial build up process with last post's progress. Next step will be installation of the omp lines and vacuum spider. Notice also at the upper corner where my oil filter is supposed to be the neck is removed. This will be replaced with a neck that will have taps for the addition of oil pressure and temperature gauges which are on order.
I was gonna take a picture of my latest progress but my camera was out of batteries even after having just put new ones in. To this day I have replaced the AA batteries in my camera about 10 times. I smashed the stupid ******* piece of s*** on the ground. I am just so pissed at this thing that I'm sure no camera is better than a Finepix2650. I mean what kind of camera doesn't shut itself off after about 5 minutes of non use. Instead this thing will use all its battery power to remain on until it has none left. I honestly wouldn't mind if it were a Li ion battery but AA's are expensive and this brick of a camera isn't worth its weight in lead. I like smashing things so it was very cathartic.
So anyway I was going to take a picture of the omp lines and vac lines I installed. I removed the injectors again thankfully because I found out I was missing the pintles on the tips of the injectors which create the spray. I also flushed the clutch line and put new fluid in
So anyway I was going to take a picture of the omp lines and vac lines I installed. I removed the injectors again thankfully because I found out I was missing the pintles on the tips of the injectors which create the spray. I also flushed the clutch line and put new fluid in
Update 12/30: Probably going to buy new camera today. I got some goodies in the mail today. I recieved my ebay fuel filter and also my oil filter pedestal with the 1/8" taps for the senders to my new gauges. I'll be able to read oil temp and pressure along with ect, all you need for a rotary.
Hokay, picked up a new camera last night. I'm back in business
Pic 1 These are the omp lines and vacuum spider. If you can believe it the black vacuum line is 40.00 from mazdatrix. Not until I bought the new one did I realize how old and stiff the one on my car was. This new one has such soft supple rubber. But honestly look at that thing. I'm a DIY kind of person but how the hell could I make something as intricate as that thing? It needs to fit in that exact space. There is no room available to fudge in a rigged line by me, the UIM sits right above that space with little more than a half centimeter to spare. Also notice my secondary fuel rail missing. Please read the previous post for details.
Pic2.Check out my new oil filter stand. Shiney! It has 1/8NPT ports for oil pressure and temperature senders.
Pic 1 These are the omp lines and vacuum spider. If you can believe it the black vacuum line is 40.00 from mazdatrix. Not until I bought the new one did I realize how old and stiff the one on my car was. This new one has such soft supple rubber. But honestly look at that thing. I'm a DIY kind of person but how the hell could I make something as intricate as that thing? It needs to fit in that exact space. There is no room available to fudge in a rigged line by me, the UIM sits right above that space with little more than a half centimeter to spare. Also notice my secondary fuel rail missing. Please read the previous post for details.
Pic2.Check out my new oil filter stand. Shiney! It has 1/8NPT ports for oil pressure and temperature senders.
Pic 3 New gauges to utilize the oil filter adapter Oil pressure, Oil Temp, and EC Temp. Senders are below. In picture 2 you can see the stock oil pressure sender below the pedestal but it's not 1/8NPT but 1/8BSPT(british thread standard) so it doesn't fit and I wanna keep the stock gauges anyway
Last edited:
Roywhitep5
Member
- :
- 2007 350z
i can see your water temp sensor guage is disconnected. if you find out how to reconnect that, please tell me because mine is broken
Roy it's a super small connector. This is the one. Those two tied together go to the emissions rack. The small single dives down below my emissions rack and just pops onto the end of the sensor. I think it is on the harness between the switching solenoid(orange,blue,brown,white) connectors and the purgevalve and IAT sensor connectors pictured below
Last edited:
Alright took a little trip to Home Depot tonight and made a little piece to hold the ect sensor. It consists of a 3/8" threaded T, two 3/8"Male to 3/8" barb, and a 3/8Male to 1/8Female threaded bushing. It's the big brass thing in the background. That'll go in the middle of the hose there that leads to the upper intake manifold to the thermowax valve and air control valve. On the other forums, which must not be named, the concensus is that as far as ease of placement(ie not having to drill/tap) and real time temperature data readings it is the best place. I'm not 100% because the thread was regarding a 3rd gen but I'm sure it was the analogous hose on my 88GXL.
The other gauges were just placed there for my own amusement. When it's time to get the wiring harness attatched in that area I'll take them out and dress them correctly and put them in the pictured locations. Not like I have much choice.
Still awaiting a mazdatrix package containing the injector pintles and my *brand new* center radio surround. When that time comes there will be some serious progress made and this thing'll be running again.
The other gauges were just placed there for my own amusement. When it's time to get the wiring harness attatched in that area I'll take them out and dress them correctly and put them in the pictured locations. Not like I have much choice.
Still awaiting a mazdatrix package containing the injector pintles and my *brand new* center radio surround. When that time comes there will be some serious progress made and this thing'll be running again.
This just in! I guess when it rains it pours three packages within 24 hours. Two wheels, my shifter surround, and my *new in box* radio and climate control surround. By sheer luck the shifter surround is also the s5 rubberized plastic just like my radio surround. I still cant make any progress on the car because I think they sent me the wrong pintle for my year injectors. I might try to get along on the wiring harness and emissions rack.
- :
- '13 CWP MS3 & '16 Mazda6 GT
nice!
Update 1/8/07: Crazy night full of highs
and lows. I got a lot done.
First the lows:I bought injector pintles thinking it was just something I lost. according to mazdatrix these are often "lost"(in a socks kind of way) when removing the injectors and rails. I also recalled something sliding off in a distant memory. The pintles I bought seemed too small for the tips and asked mazdatrix what the deal was and they said that they need to be slid on after boiling them or pressed in with a vice.
me boiling it
Now a fuel injector to me seems like a pretty delicate item so any ham-fisting or mechanical force to drive it on kind of alarmed me. Nonetheless I proceeded and forced these onto the tips only to find that now they don't fit into the injector primary. Now breaking off a primary into one of the chambers is a much more serious problem than breaking an injector so I decided to carefully cut them off the injector tip. Luckily they split like a sausage casing and they came off without any trouble.
I consulted the fuel rail with the other two injectors on the UIM and saw that they didn't have anything. I concluded the pintle is only used when rebuilding the injector and you press the parts inside it. In effect what I did was slide a pintle over a pintle. A pintle is from what I can tell used for other purposes on other cars and may easily slide on/off. My confusion cost me a lot of time on this.
Another thing I wanted to do which was kind of causing me to put all this work off was rearrange some of the omp lines orders of installation. I ended up moving all of them around and completely removing all of them which completely rendered the new crush washers worthless. I said **** it and just tightened them more. I hope the heat cycling will work them in. I may not have mentioned this before but I primed all the lines with a hypodermic needle filled with oil otherwise the apex seal will not be lubricated while the lines are filling.
I had to put on and remove this stupid emissions rack about five times.
1st time: had to put on injector plugs
2nd time: forgot to put on a hose which was my number one goal(fist post) of this install
3rd time: forgot to put on an elbow that leads to the three way check valve on the rack
4th time: stripped a bolt!
5th time: finally in
This is the bolt hole. Not a horrible place to strip a bolt but I did hear a high pitched crack. I only pray that it is just a thread and not a hairline crack in the housing.
Senders installed with minimal clearance from the fuel line. There is also the vent line going to the charcoal cannister goal #1 finnished
Shot of the progress from the drivers side
Shot from the passenger side. As you can see everything fits prettymuch as tight as it can get and doesn't leave room for experimentation and alternate line routing
and lows. I got a lot done.First the lows:I bought injector pintles thinking it was just something I lost. according to mazdatrix these are often "lost"(in a socks kind of way) when removing the injectors and rails. I also recalled something sliding off in a distant memory. The pintles I bought seemed too small for the tips and asked mazdatrix what the deal was and they said that they need to be slid on after boiling them or pressed in with a vice.
me boiling it
Now a fuel injector to me seems like a pretty delicate item so any ham-fisting or mechanical force to drive it on kind of alarmed me. Nonetheless I proceeded and forced these onto the tips only to find that now they don't fit into the injector primary. Now breaking off a primary into one of the chambers is a much more serious problem than breaking an injector so I decided to carefully cut them off the injector tip. Luckily they split like a sausage casing and they came off without any trouble.
I consulted the fuel rail with the other two injectors on the UIM and saw that they didn't have anything. I concluded the pintle is only used when rebuilding the injector and you press the parts inside it. In effect what I did was slide a pintle over a pintle. A pintle is from what I can tell used for other purposes on other cars and may easily slide on/off. My confusion cost me a lot of time on this.
Another thing I wanted to do which was kind of causing me to put all this work off was rearrange some of the omp lines orders of installation. I ended up moving all of them around and completely removing all of them which completely rendered the new crush washers worthless. I said **** it and just tightened them more. I hope the heat cycling will work them in. I may not have mentioned this before but I primed all the lines with a hypodermic needle filled with oil otherwise the apex seal will not be lubricated while the lines are filling.
I had to put on and remove this stupid emissions rack about five times.
1st time: had to put on injector plugs
2nd time: forgot to put on a hose which was my number one goal(fist post) of this install
3rd time: forgot to put on an elbow that leads to the three way check valve on the rack
4th time: stripped a bolt!
5th time: finally in
This is the bolt hole. Not a horrible place to strip a bolt but I did hear a high pitched crack. I only pray that it is just a thread and not a hairline crack in the housing.
Senders installed with minimal clearance from the fuel line. There is also the vent line going to the charcoal cannister goal #1 finnished
Shot of the progress from the drivers side
Shot from the passenger side. As you can see everything fits prettymuch as tight as it can get and doesn't leave room for experimentation and alternate line routing
Last edited:
Update 1/12: So close I can smell it. Started the night by pouring a couple cc's two stroke oil down each runner of the lower intake mani. I did this to help with compression and lubrication on the apex seal while the OMP lines completely purge of air. I may crank it over a couple times to get it all worked in.
Tonight I connected the upper intake manifold and all it's vacuum and coolant lines. I found a nice color coded diagram to fix any confusion. I even caught a mistake in the fuel feed and return routing.
Here's what's on the agenda for tommorrow. I have to fill this void here. Shroud, fan, air pump, alternator, and intake all to go on. I'll pull it out for a fresh oil change and top off of the coolant system.
Tonight I connected the upper intake manifold and all it's vacuum and coolant lines. I found a nice color coded diagram to fix any confusion. I even caught a mistake in the fuel feed and return routing.
Here's what's on the agenda for tommorrow. I have to fill this void here. Shroud, fan, air pump, alternator, and intake all to go on. I'll pull it out for a fresh oil change and top off of the coolant system.
Similar Threads and Articles
New Threads and Articles
-
-
-
Issues with new Mazda Update Toolbox being unuseable
- By Driver Bear
- Replies: 3