Which fuse is for the ECU?

koala

Member
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Mazda CX-7 GT AWD
I'm getting tired of having to disconnect the battery to reset these stupid gas cap check engine lights... anyone know which fuse to pull to reset the ecu only?

I can't believe how stubborn this vehicle is when it comes to the gas cap.
 
Koala,

There are other known issues that cause the CEL to come on... I'm not sure if you've already had them addressed, but if not you should really take the car to the dealer.

Since picking up my car the end of November (already with new gas cap) I have only had the CEL come on once, and it was for the IMRC Valve, which has now been fixed (just this past friday).
 
koala said:
I'm getting tired of having to disconnect the battery to reset these stupid gas cap check engine lights... anyone know which fuse to pull to reset the ecu only?

I can't believe how stubborn this vehicle is when it comes to the gas cap.

Ummm...and I can't believe how stubborn some owners are about having the gas cap replaced (for free!!!) and solving the problem! (poke)
 
Mine came on once...gas cap replaced...end of problem. May be another issue then....take it to the dealer like CX Rabbit mentioned.
 
koala said:
I'm getting tired of having to disconnect the battery to reset these stupid gas cap check engine lights... anyone know which fuse to pull to reset the ecu only?

I can't believe how stubborn this vehicle is when it comes to the gas cap.
Regardless of how you reset it, what good is resetting it only to have it come back on? You would be better off removing the CEL bulb,which I don't recommend. I would just have the dealer fix the problem.
 
azcat said:
Ummm...and I can't believe how stubborn some owners are about having the gas cap replaced (for free!!!) and solving the problem! (poke)

Which would be cool if my VIN was in the range, but mine was built outside of the applicable range.
 
meanstreak said:
Regardless of how you reset it, what good is resetting it only to have it come back on? You would be better off removing the CEL bulb,which I don't recommend. I would just have the dealer fix the problem.

I just don't click it enough times. On Honda's it's only 2 clicks to avoid a CEL, on this Mazda it seems like 7 to 10 are necessary. I just have to get used to this when refueling.

Last time I refueled it was -25 outside, I was freezing my bag off and wanted to get back inside of the vehicle ASAP! (rlaugh)
 
koala said:
Which would be cool if my VIN was in the range, but mine was built outside of the applicable range.

So what makes you think it's the cap?! Replacing it has solved the problem for most on here. Have you had your dealer check the code?

One or two clicks? Just twist it--you're not going to hurt it! I give mine at least a half-turn after the first click; takes all of, oh, 0.2 seconds.
 
koala said:
I just don't click it enough times. On Honda's it's only 2 clicks to avoid a CEL, on this Mazda it seems like 7 to 10 are necessary. I just have to get used to this when refueling.

Last time I refueled it was -25 outside, I was freezing my bag off and wanted to get back inside of the vehicle ASAP! (rlaugh)

Once you turn a cap till it begins to click it really doesn't get much tighter with more clicks and it doesn't take any more time to turn it 2 clicks or seven clicks. If it is the gas cap causing the issue the code should clear itself anyway though 'm not sure how long that takes. On the Hondas, it would take about 4 cold or overnight starts to clear the light. Probably a rare occurence, but not a good design if you have a second different CEL issue during that timeframe.
 
azcat said:
So what makes you think it's the cap?! Replacing it has solved the problem for most on here. Have you had your dealer check the code?

One or two clicks? Just twist it--you're not going to hurt it! I give mine at least a half-turn after the first click; takes all of, oh, 0.2 seconds.

I'm just trying to avoid a dealer visit... the local dealer is terrible and they told me they wouldn't do warranty work on my vehicle if I didn't buy from them (which I realize is complete BS, but I don't want to support a dealer with such business practices anyway), and the next closest one is 100 miles away.

I just wish I still had my scan tool so that I could pull the code myself... but it's packed away.

I know I'm not going to hurt it by twisting it more, it's just that for 6 years now I've been driving Honda's (including two S2000's) and I guess it's almost a form of muscle-memory when I fuel-up... just something I have to unlearn.
 
Advanced Auto will read your code but, most manufacture has their own set of error recording numbers. If you get the code # maybe a call to a dealer will give you the information.
 
koala said:
I'm just trying to avoid a dealer visit... the local dealer is terrible and they told me they wouldn't do warranty work on my vehicle if I didn't buy from them (which I realize is complete BS, but I don't want to support a dealer with such business practices anyway), and the next closest one is 100 miles away.
Not only is it complete BS, but Mazda can dump them as a dealer for that behaviour. I can understand how you don't want to do business with them.
 
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