When do you need a tune?!

Dacosta13

Member
:
2011 Mazdaspeed 3
Do you need one after intake BPV and exhaust? orr..... and where do you get one is it using the cobb accesport? or can i go somwhere? and you get one so you dont run lean yes?
 
Do you need one after intake BPV and exhaust? orr..... and where do you get one is it using the cobb accesport? or can i go somwhere? and you get one so you dont run lean yes?

The critical issue on these engines is making sure that the MAF sensor is calibrated properly. Most aftermarket intakes will alter the MAF readings, which can cause the engine to run leaner at WOT, and cause excessive boost levels. When adding additional mods, a correct MAF calibration is even more critical for proper engine control. This requires a custom MAF calibration for the type of intake you are running. The Hypertech Max Energy Sport tuner has MAF sensor corrections for several different aftermarket intakes.

In addition, tuners like the Hypertech Sport tuner will allow you to get the full potential out of your mods. The Hypertech tuner raises the factory boost and load cut limiters to take advantage of the additional airflow from bolt-on mods, but keeps them in place to protect the engine. Also, the tuner has an option that lets you remove the boost and load cut in 1st and 2nd gear.

Chris
 
2 reasons to get tuned...motor needs to run healthier to avoid running lean and detonation or you want more power, or both. There is a point where slapping more parts on the car causes more harm than good. Get a tune whenever you want. You can get a tune without a single modification and have a faster, better running motor. But you need a tune when you have enough modifications where you shouldn't put any more parts on the car until you get tuned. Typically, this is after 2-3 basic bolt-ons but that's just a benchmark. You can get tuned whenever you want.
 
No one really answered the question. I am curious too, if I do the COBB intake on my 2011 MSP3, do I have to tune immediatly? do you need to tune if I only do a cat back? sorry for all the ????s
 
2 reasons to get tuned...motor needs to run healthier to avoid running lean and detonation or you want more power, or both. There is a point where slapping more parts on the car causes more harm than good. Get a tune whenever you want. You can get a tune without a single modification and have a faster, better running motor. But you need a tune when you have enough modifications where you shouldn't put any more parts on the car until you get tuned. Typically, this is after 2-3 basic bolt-ons but that's just a benchmark. You can get tuned whenever you want.
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No one really answered the question. I am curious too, if I do the COBB intake on my 2011 MSP3, do I have to tune immediatly? do you need to tune if I only do a cat back? sorry for all the ????s

I think it was answered..... read it again eh eh
 
I asked about a specific item and he gave the most general description. I know that if I do slot of mods I will need tune. Wanted to know if I have to tune immediately after intake install.
 
I asked about a specific item and he gave the most general description. I know that if I do slot of mods I will need tune. Wanted to know if I have to tune immediately after intake install.

The short answer is No, you don't need to tune with only an intake, although a tune will unleash some power but it is not necessary.

Here is what I did, right or wrong it was my order of events:

Full Intake
FP
ETS TMIC
AP (alpha testing with Cobb for stage 1)
DP
AP (beta testing with Cobb for stage 2)
FMIC - New Starting Map
Tune with MSF members and friends
Grimmspeed 3 port EBCS - Flashed a modified map (a few tables)
Tweaking map as the WG is working properly now
Future items:
IM PnP and new EM - reading about the new VE tables and trying to understand them for future adjustment
BT - Start the process over
 
Put it this way, if you are going to mod then you are going to need to get an AP anyways. SO go ahead and get it over with, then you have maps for your future mods.
 
OP, to make it simple, you should get a tune if you have at least the following mods:

Intake & TIP
Fuel Pump Internals
Downpipe and or Testpipe/2nd Cat Delete

Get the Fuel Pump Internals before doing any exhaust upgrades (except for the catback since it is mainly for exhaust note).
 
I have yet to get my '11 Speed3 tuned and I know it needs to be done badly. I just have not had any free time to drive it up to San Antonio for a tuning. I'm not a person who is into the 1/4 or 1/8 mile stuff. Too boring. lol
 
^ that would be a waste of time. if you dont ask them about installing a tractor trailer turbo and trying to hit 600hp they dont wanna hear it over there. i asked the same question as the OP since i bought this car as my DD since i want to build a fox body since i totaled my 2011 5.0 and i was called a ricer since i only asked about a cbe, intake, and bpv/bov lol
 
^ that would be a waste of time. if you dont ask them about installing a tractor trailer turbo and trying to hit 600hp they dont wanna hear it over there. i asked the same question as the OP since i bought this car as my DD since i want to build a fox body since i totaled my 2011 5.0 and i was called a ricer since i only asked about a cbe, intake, and bpv/bov lol

I'm sorry you got butthurt over there because your skin is thinner than tissue paper. BTW, how'd you total that 2011 5.0? Lose control? Hm.

There are very good how-to's and stickies on MSF for doing your own MAF calibration and tune yourself. If you can take a joke or two you'll be fine. If you actually look at stickies and read the information already there, you'll learn a ton and be more educated when you ask questions.

Anything beyond a SRI, IMO, is a good time to tune and make the most of your mods/make sure the tune is safe.

Edit: By the way, captain butthurt....what was the purpose of bumping a 6 month old thread? So you could b**** and moan about being called out on another website? Boo hoo.
 
I'm sorry you got butthurt over there because your skin is thinner than tissue paper. BTW, how'd you total that 2011 5.0? Lose control? Hm.

There are very good how-to's and stickies on MSF for doing your own MAF calibration and tune yourself. If you can take a joke or two you'll be fine. If you actually look at stickies and read the information already there, you'll learn a ton and be more educated when you ask questions.

Anything beyond a SRI, IMO, is a good time to tune and make the most of your mods/make sure the tune is safe.

Edit: By the way, captain butthurt....what was the purpose of bumping a 6 month old thread? So you could b**** and moan about being called out on another website? Boo hoo.


well 1 i didnt even notice the date of the last comment. i just read the title since it was something i was looking for an answer for myself. 2 nobody got "butthurt" i simply made a comment on something. i honesly could care less about comments people make over the internet lol. 3 i did lose control of my mustang. it was lightly raining and there are 2 intersections where i live that are total s*** when it gets wet from oil. the rear end slid out as i went through the intersection in 3rd gear and i went over a curb and into the woods
 
The answer to OP's question depends on whether the car is gen 1 or gen 2.

Gen 1 MS3 can usually run intake and test pipe and HT safely in combo without needing pump upgrade. Adding downpipe is when the stock pump cannot keep up.

Gen 2 MS3 (2010+) seems to be much more sensitive to mods and any power mods beyond intake alone result in inadequate pressure from the stock pump.
 
I have an 07 MS3 and got a corksport intake with TIP. I noticed right away it ran amazing but it needed...something. So I got a Hypertech, didnt want to run lean. It smoothed out the Idle and ran better at top end. Take that how you want to.
(nana)
 
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