Wheel hop = bad suspension?

[Rogue]

So here are the symptoms:

When I try to accellerate hard, turning right, pulling out into traffic, my left wheel hops...alot...hard. It doesn't happen when turning left. Even when going straight, it's only the left wheel that hops, hard. I installed the front AWR engine mount, and it really didn't help.

Could it be that the front suspesion is holding the tire to ground anymore? I have over 36,000 mi, and have hit some speed bumps, speed humps, and RR trax kinda hard (yeah I know...stupid )

Any idea?

(2thumbs)
Thanx

 

[hi-perf]

Try adding a limited slip differential, such as that found in the MSP.

there is a group buy going on that you can cash in for one for only $550 i believe.

 

[SFC01v2]

My understanding is that wheel hop on acceleration with FWD cars is a result of anti-dive/anti-lift geometry. So without modifying the geometry the wheel hop is inevitable.

It is curious that it is only the left wheel which hops. It would normally be expected that the wheel with less vertical load would be the first to lose traction. Maybe there is something more involved like worn dampers...

 

[Rogue]

what are dampers?

 

[Notorious]

Wheel hop is a huge problem in my car. When I switched the springs for spring with a greater spring rate the wheel hop isn't nearly as bad as it used to be. The best way is to upgrade the motor mount but awr is extremely stiff. I'm probably gonna get a custom polyurethane insert created for the front motor mount. Hopefully that will reduce engine movement with making the interior rattle apart.

 

[laserbluemp5]

I have an Mp3 front sway bar , JIC Flt-A2 coilovers , Awr motor mounts and Toyo proxes ,And since the install I have not been able to get any wheel hop what so ever.

 

[splitvizion]

s***, my MSP hops like crazy when you go from a stop turning and gas it. I think that one of the factors is the fact that I'm driving in 30deg. weather. Those tires are def. not made for cold weather. Haven't got a chance to really go in warm weather yet. Warmest has been around 60.

 

[BlueWolfCry]

i know that engine mounts affect how much a car wheel hops, this hondata rsx had wheel hop till he got...either softer or harder ones, i cant remember, but what ever aftermarketers sell, i think it would be to fix the wheel hoppage

 

[Notorious]

Aftermarket sells harder ones. Mine used to pretty much do it anywhere in first gear during boost. The springs helped and motor mounts will also go a long way.

 

[splitvizion]

thanks. it's real annoying, almost as bad as the bushing problem.

 

[uclap5]

maybe with 36k miles yours wheels are bald, the left one especially.....

ahh ive got nothing. good luck finding a solution.

 

[SFC01v2]

Can anyone explain how the engine mounts could make any difference to wheel hop??

I'm relatively new to FWD so there may be some nuance I'm missing out on, but anecdotal evidence doesn't help me learn.

btw dampers are shock absorbers.

Notorious, in your sig you mention trailing arms, can you offer more info as to what this mod was?

Cheers,

 

[mp3moose]

When the engine is given power it vibrates. This vibration is sent to the wheels and cause them to 'hop'. Harder motor mounts hold the engine from bouncing around a lot better than stock ones do, thus reducing the amount of movement sent to the wheels. Bald tires don't help when a considerable amount of power is sent to them as they can loose traction with the pavement and give a little bounce as well.
Moose

 

[AZDriftR]

So here are the symptoms:

When I try to accellerate hard, turning right, pulling out into traffic, my left wheel hops...alot...hard. It doesn't happen when turning left. Even when going straight, it's only the left wheel that hops, hard. I installed the front AWR engine mount, and it really didn't help.

Thanx

try installing the rear mount, i noticed a big difference in wheel hop after i put the rear in...

 

[SFC01v2]

Bald tires don't help when a considerable amount of power is sent to them as they can loose traction with the pavement and give a little bounce as well.
Moose

On dry pavement bald tyres should be the optimum!

I'm still not sure that engine mounts are the culprit as movement of the engine should be isolated by one or both of the CV joints.

Now I am going to try and explain something on the fly with no refresher research so don't flame me if I balls it up first go: With anti-lift geometry a proportion of the longitudinal mass transfer is directed through the spring/damper and another proportion through the control arms directly to the chassis. As long as there is accelerative force at the contact patch this case exists. At loss of traction this accelerative force rapidly diminishes which means that the proportion of mass in the control arms dissappears and transfers to the spring/damper - rapidly compressing the assy and the wheel raises. This motion causes the accelerative force to drop to zero compunding the movement. As the wheel comes down and makes contact again accelerative forces increase compounding the downward motion until traction is lost again and the cycle continues.

With zero anti-lift all mass is transfered through the spring/dampers - no transients through this assembly = no wheel hop - not to mention reduced power on understeer!

Rebuttal welcome...