What's everyone replacing there sub with?

1st MP3 in NH said:
Where did you get that information?

That's what I'd like to know, Savy you seem to have a lot of information on the sub box in the MSP where are you getting it all from. People have already put a JL sub in where the original sub is and said how much better it was and how much of a difference it made, so why would it not work or be bad for it.

On a side note my new sub and enclousure with amp came in today so there replacing it all tomorrow so atleast I'll have a brand new sub and then I'm just going to replace it with the JL 8w3v2D4.
 
? Where did I get it from? It's not imformation it's fact. Our sub has a resonant freq. Our box was made for that, for the best possible sound....the new driver should come close to that number.
 
If you guys would check out my posts more carefully you would see I haven't said anything about our box. It's all general information. I'm simply trying to make you guys understand these applications are not universal. I'm just trying to say be careful what you just "throw in there". Research and get a woofer close in specs to the stock one.....Jesus I'm getting all beat up cause I'm trying to help.
 
II-Savy said:
Our box was made for that, for the best possible sound

So that's why they have 4ohms going to an 8ohm sub and that rattle I have is the best possible sound. Way to go Mazda engineering, I'm gonna take my chances with a working JL sub.
 
Hey the JL might work out great! It MAY love the box. I have NO IDEA! Thats the point. I have no rattle so I don't share that situation.

.......and if we had MAN amps we could run it at 2 ohms.
 
The problem there is no information mazda did anything but go by kenwood airspace requirment range. Never have I seen a mention that the box was engineered in anyway except to hold a sub of a certain air space firing downward form the rear deck.

No on is beating you up. We want info thats it.

Yes a different subs in the same box will perform differently. the kenwood will not have the RTA resonse as the JL will. Is the box better suited for one then the other? Perhaps but as it is sealed, if that box was designed in even the most strict engineering on acoustics it will still make little difference as long as the range of acceptable airspace for the 2 subs are similar.

Also you have th eissue of a 4 ohm driver replaceing a 8 ohm one. So the sub will mathmaticly be 3 db more right off the bat.

If anyone has the box down I can tell you how to measure it. It would be good to know what size it is.
 
MazdaspeedZOOM said:
So that's why they have 4ohms going to an 8ohm sub and that rattle I have is the best possible sound. Way to go Mazda engineering, I'm gonna take my chances with a working JL sub.

It doesn't exactly work like that.
I think the 8 ohm sub is an engineering compromise.
The amp being fliped upside down may nuke itself over time running a 4 ohm load. However it will produce far less heat when powering an 8 ohm load so they traded off to a 8 ohm sub to keep the amp uncooked.

This is speculation ofcoarse as there is no official word on this.
 
1st MP3 in NH said:
The problem there is no information mazda did anything but go by kenwood airspace requirment range. Never have I seen a mention that the box was engineered in anyway except to hold a sub of a certain air space firing downward form the rear deck.

No on is beating you up. We want info thats it.

Yes a different subs in the same box will perform differently. the kenwood will not have the RTA resonse as the JL will. Is the box better suited for one then the other? Perhaps but as it is sealed, if that box was designed in even the most strict engineering on acoustics it will still make little difference as long as the range of acceptable airspace for the 2 subs are similar.

Also you have th eissue of a 4 ohm driver replaceing a 8 ohm one. So the sub will mathmaticly be 3 db more right off the bat.

If anyone has the box down I can tell you how to measure it. It would be good to know what size it is.

Craig, PM me and tell me what I need to do to take measurements/pictures of the box. I have my box down with no sub installed in it currently.
 
No need for Pm's

2 ways or I shoudl say 2 substances.

The easy way is get alot of packing peanuts. It won't be exact but being a sealed box its close enough.
Then fill the box with peanuts. make sure you get the peanuts into the corners. Don't crush themor anything just make sure its filled.
Take a liter bottle of soda and drink the soda, fill it with water and dump it in a bucket, container whatever. Mark how high that level of water is. Now remove the water and start empting peanuts into the contain you marked one liter on. Count out the liters and then do a liter to cubic foot conversion.

BANG
You have the airspace.

Instead of peanuts the other way is to use water which is more accurate but a potential mess :D

The only other part is to subtract the airspace taken up by the sub itself.
 
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WHy not use a liter of liquor, drink the booze, and then fill the bucket with water. Why soda!?!?! :D

I measure that sub tonight, w/ the DMM...then verification shall ensue...:D

EDIT: Or, if you like beer, get a jug of Ipswitch!
 
Whatever beverage and its corresponding container you wiss to use is just fine by me, just do the conversion right! :D
 
Perhaps it was turned to the exact amount, but does anyone even know that yet?

Also I personally have never seen an exact amount of polyfill put into a box. THey just put in whatever amount seems good to them and call it a day, it's not exact. You are just making the box seem a little larger. And that inclosure is heavy and bad, just rip that mofo out and get a get sub. Not a damn 8" midbass.
 
Is it me or did mazdaspeedzoom ask for recomendations on replacement subs for the kenwood one? Why is everyone so hell bound and determined to praise JL? I have had JL subs before and they are not worth the money you pay for them, trust me. I have had Orions, JL, Memphis and Audiobahn subs in my past car. I got the best bang for the buck from the Audiobahns. Audiobahn completly redesigned the new series subs, and they are awesome. Im not knocking JL's but in my experience with stereo equipment I had the greatest results from Audiobahn. Check them out for yourself. More db drags are won with audiobahns than any other brand. At least where Im from. Mazdaspeedzoom just trying to give you other options. Hope this helps.....BTW Audiobahns are a hell of a lot cheaper than JL and they perform better...
 
I never noticed JL paise. A lot of people mentioned it since they are good innexpensive subs.

And what DB drags do you go to cause I hardly even see autobaughn subs. Not that they are not there but every car has their own idea and setup, not one sub is king. I only mentioned JL cause I like mine and it is a step up from Kenwood.

Also I have been in shitloads of cars with subs and JL is one of the better lower brands. Yes there are a lot better out there, but you can't beat the price for the quality. It depends on what you want. If you are going for just all-out loud boomy bass, or are you going for quality and reproduction of sound.

JL is not super loud and boomy, more on the quality side. That is why I like them.
 
I praise JL because I have heard both them and AudioBahn ... Gimme a JL and day of the week. I'm more interested in accurate bass response, and tonality...I don't listen to rap...I listen to techno, Rock, industrial, etc. Also notice, of the three companies that I listed for a replacement piece the, JL is the cheapest (80$ for the w0). Yes they are generally expensive...however, in this case I think an 8w0 is best for SQ purposes for the price. But look...I suggested ID, they make good products too! He asked for opinions, and we offered. JL makes an 8", and a lot of us know the quality...so you'll hear a lot of supoort for it. It was up to him to choose...

2 side notes:

1) just for reference, I'm not buying a JL sub...:D
2) also just for reference, the Kenwood speaker is 8 ohms. Put it on a multimeter and got 9 ohm(sorry...it's not a DMM). There you have it...
 
Me again..

Originally posted by AyWire
Audio newb question:

Is there any additional wiring/amp issues hooking up a 10" sub to our kenwood amp? Or is it as simple as unplugging the 8" and plugging in the new sub?

-AyW
Originally posted by MazdaspeedZOOM
When I looked at it, it seemed pretty simple to me, just move some wires.

Would our stock kenwood amp have enough power for a 10" sub in a box? Anything else i would need to know?

What i'd like to do is go get a 10" sub in a box .. put it in my trunk, hook up a couple wires from the kenwood amp and start listening to music.

Good plan or bad plan?
 
I appreciate everyone's suggestions on which sub to get. The reason JL is taking a lot of notice is they are one of the few compaines that make an 8" sub that is pretty easy to find and not to terribly priced. The information I have received from 1st and servoeyes has been fantastic, along with everyone else. All opinions are welcome that's the point of this thread to get peoples oppinion. As far as my choice so far I am leaning towrads the JL just because I have heard great things about them, I'm not just looking for an inexpensive replacement I'm looking for something that will last long, sound good, and be better than that POS kenwood, price to me is really not that important.
 
AyWire said:
Me again..
Would our stock kenwood amp have enough power for a 10" sub in a box? Anything else i would need to know?

What i'd like to do is go get a 10" sub in a box .. put it in my trunk, hook up a couple wires from the kenwood amp and start listening to music.

Good plan or bad plan?

Well from what I've read in this thread, the amp is 250watts max, 125rms at 4ohms, so if you got a sub to match those power rating, which a JL 10w0 does pretty well then you should be fine. If your planning on going this route just pull out the whole enclousure and then take the amp and mount it under your seat like 1st suggested to help keep it cool and the heat away from it and run the wires to the new sub. Trust me it's a pretty job all in all pretty much plug and play. It's not the amp that's the downflaw of our stock MSP system it's the sub.
 
MazdaspeedZOOM said:
Well from what I've read in this thread, the amp is 250watts max, 125rms at 4ohms, so if you got a sub to match those power rating, which a JL 10w0 does pretty well then you should be fine. If your planning on going this route just pull out the whole enclousure and then take the amp and mount it under your seat like 1st suggested to help keep it cool and the heat away from it and run the wires to the new sub. Trust me it's a pretty job all in all pretty much plug and play. It's not the amp that's the downflaw of our stock MSP system it's the sub.


Ok thanks for help (2thumbs)

-AyW
 
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