1st MP3 in NH said:Where did you get that information?
II-Savy said:Our box was made for that, for the best possible sound
MazdaspeedZOOM said:So that's why they have 4ohms going to an 8ohm sub and that rattle I have is the best possible sound. Way to go Mazda engineering, I'm gonna take my chances with a working JL sub.
1st MP3 in NH said:The problem there is no information mazda did anything but go by kenwood airspace requirment range. Never have I seen a mention that the box was engineered in anyway except to hold a sub of a certain air space firing downward form the rear deck.
No on is beating you up. We want info thats it.
Yes a different subs in the same box will perform differently. the kenwood will not have the RTA resonse as the JL will. Is the box better suited for one then the other? Perhaps but as it is sealed, if that box was designed in even the most strict engineering on acoustics it will still make little difference as long as the range of acceptable airspace for the 2 subs are similar.
Also you have th eissue of a 4 ohm driver replaceing a 8 ohm one. So the sub will mathmaticly be 3 db more right off the bat.
If anyone has the box down I can tell you how to measure it. It would be good to know what size it is.
Originally posted by MazdaspeedZOOMOriginally posted by AyWire
Audio newb question:
Is there any additional wiring/amp issues hooking up a 10" sub to our kenwood amp? Or is it as simple as unplugging the 8" and plugging in the new sub?
-AyW
When I looked at it, it seemed pretty simple to me, just move some wires.
AyWire said:Me again..
Would our stock kenwood amp have enough power for a 10" sub in a box? Anything else i would need to know?
What i'd like to do is go get a 10" sub in a box .. put it in my trunk, hook up a couple wires from the kenwood amp and start listening to music.
Good plan or bad plan?
MazdaspeedZOOM said:Well from what I've read in this thread, the amp is 250watts max, 125rms at 4ohms, so if you got a sub to match those power rating, which a JL 10w0 does pretty well then you should be fine. If your planning on going this route just pull out the whole enclousure and then take the amp and mount it under your seat like 1st suggested to help keep it cool and the heat away from it and run the wires to the new sub. Trust me it's a pretty job all in all pretty much plug and play. It's not the amp that's the downflaw of our stock MSP system it's the sub.