What's everyone replacing there sub with?

II-Savy said:
Is the efficiancy the same as the Kenwood? You don't want that sub to be screemin' while the rest of the system isn't.

Those types of things can be adjusted both with the Non-Fading adjustment and the bass adjustment on our headunits along with the gain on the amp it's self. I'm sure I can tune the system to match the new sub perfectly and it'll sound a hell of a lot better then that POS kenwood we have now.
 
Whatever you do, don't get that damn Kenwood POS. It broke on me for the *second* time! This time the cone decided to detach itself from the surround.

Normally I wouldn't give a rat's ass, but this sub going to my girlfriend. Now I've been looking for a replacement so here's the options:

1) Image Dynamics ID8 v.3 (110$ at sounddomain.com)
2) JL 8w0 (80$ at tweeter) or JL 8w3v2 (130-160$ or so...)
3) Polk MOMO 8" (90$ at CircuitCity)

Honestly, I'm gonna pick up the 8w0 and turn the amp's gain down. As is, the system in the Kenwood was sending a bridged signal out (120x1 @ 4ohm) to an 8 ohm speaker! That means we were effectively getting 60w or less to that kenwood, and it was still dying. The only speaker above that I do not know much about is the Polk. The ID, from what I know is a great brand. I have not heard them, so I recommend and audition. The JLs, though, I can attest to being the best speaker for the money (especially if you can find a hook-up!)
 
OK well I don't think they are peices of s*** and all I can say is our enclosures were made for that speaker. The size, shape, venting...it all matters. Do what you want but I would be more concerned with getting a driver that will enjoy that space better. Just picking one out of thin air or because someone said they are good is no way to choose. Research, look at the specs THEN choose.
 
Servo - I know the car audio mgr at the avon tweeter so let me know and I can meet you there. I can get you a kick ass deal. I've known him for about 10 years.


....back on topic.........

RESEARCH guys! Even a sound test is stupid in the store. The box they will show you the woofer in will be different and it will sound different.
 
II-Savy said:
OK well I don't think they are peices of s*** and all I can say is our enclosures were made for that speaker. The size, shape, venting...it all matters. Do what you want but I would be more concerned with getting a driver that will enjoy that space better. Just picking one out of thin air or because someone said they are good is no way to choose. Research, look at the specs THEN choose.

dude...they "engineered" the enclosure like s*** then if people keep having problems with the "proper" driver, then **** the proper driver. also there is no venting, the thing is not ported :rolleyes:

im lookin to eventually get a JL 8w3v2

im wondering what youre gonna do when your sub blows? buy the same product that doesn't seem to work well? i dont get it.
 
Dude...you're on crack, silly old man! j/k :D The box wasn't made specifically for those speakers...believe me. And if they're not pieces of crap then why are they dying. Honestly, I just pulled apart that enclosure and it's too small for that sub because it's filled to the hilt with polyfill! I don't listen to that sub loud enough to make it distort, and my settings would prevent it from doing so...and it has still blown. The JL is a better match for that size...it will also match the amp's power level better and have better response. Wait until Worcester when I have my new system in...you'll see what I mean about that sub sucking monkey nuts...
 
I guess till mine blows I can't share in the feelings you guys have for the sub. I do believe they made the box for the sub. Also are 100's of people blowing subs....or what?

and the box shouldn't have really that much fill in it but some is good.
 
Dexter said:

im lookin to eventually get a JL 8w3v2


See I'm torn between that one and the 8w0, I wonder how much of a difference between the two and which would be better for our car?
 
I asked 1stMP3; the price difference is significant, unless you have a hook-up. He said there is a minor audible difference and you should get more excursion from the w3. Since I'm supplementing a stock system with it, I'm sure the w0 will be fine, but you may want to get the w3 if it'll be a permanent addition.
 
servoeyes said:
I asked 1stMP3; the price difference is significant, unless you have a hook-up. He said there is a minor audible difference and you should get more excursion from the w3. Since I'm supplementing a stock system with it, I'm sure the w0 will be fine, but you may want to get the w3 if it'll be a permanent addition.

Yeah i was reading that, i noticed that your sub did the same thing mine did. Now i just need to find a place to get one of the w3's, I can't seem to find anyone that has one.
 
w3, no...w3v2, yes...the w3-d2 has been discontinued, I believe...though if you can find that it'll save you some cash! The w3v2 can be purchased through tweeter...I know they don't have it listed, but as an authorize vendor they should be able to get you one. Other thing to check is JL's site, and look up a dealer in your area...they keep close tabs on who can and can not sell their stuff.
 
servoeyes said:
w3, no...w3v2, yes...the w3-d2 has been discontinued, I believe...though if you can find that it'll save you some cash! The w3v2 can be purchased through tweeter...I know they don't have it listed, but as an authorize vendor they should be able to get you one. Other thing to check is JL's site, and look up a dealer in your area...they keep close tabs on who can and can not sell their stuff.

Yeah thats what i mean the w3v2, that's the one i want. I went to tweeter today and they only said they had the w0 so I don't know. I'm going to go on JL's website and see.
 
I would recommend just taking that darn thing out like I did. The kenwood sub is very cheap and very boomy. In order to get a 8" woofer to really perform like agood sub you need to spend a lot of money on it. I prefer just getting a new driver that's atleast 10". Then you start getting into the good subs.

Also that stupid stock box weighs a lot more than most boxes. It has a plastic casing that is not good for the sound. And it takes up a lot of head room in the trunk. I don't mind having a box in my trunk but I needed to extra height to fit some basic items in there.

I tore the stock box out and put in my own JL 10W0 that kicks the ass of the kenwood sub in many ways for only $80. Then I used industrial velcro from any hardware store and but the spiky end on the box. The "carpet" of the MSP trunk really sticks to the velcro. That was I can have my sub box right next to my rear seat but still be able to take it out easily if I want to move something large.

I kept the amp, it's good enough for my JL sub.
 
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Audio newb question:

Is there any additional wiring/amp issues hooking up a 10" sub to our kenwood amp? Or is it as simple as unplugging the 8" and plugging in the new sub?

-AyW
 
AyWire said:
Audio newb question:

Is there any additional wiring/amp issues hooking up a 10" sub to our kenwood amp? Or is it as simple as unplugging the 8" and plugging in the new sub?

-AyW

When I looked at it, it seemed pretty simple to me, just move some wires.
 
there is too many replys for me to read right now so i'll give my imput. i put in a JL 8 W0. it sounds a little better than stock and plus it was $50 new for me :) screw mazda and change it yourself like you said. later.
 
II-Savy said:
I would get the same driver. That enclosure is made for that driver. The amount of air in the stock box is made for that driver. Also it's sealed, so you would have to find another driver that requires that same volume of air and works well in a sealed enclosure. Look at the specs for the Kenwood driver and buy as close as you can to that. Be careful of volume #'s and efficiency.

Mamy subs, especialy when sealed require close to the same air space. Also the JLs range is very flexible in a sealed enclosure. Not to mention a sealed boxes air space makes the LEAST amount of difference when compared to a other box designs.

Does anyone know the internal size of the MSP sub enclosure?
 
MazdaspeedZOOM said:
My stock sub blew and I was curious what people are replacing theres with. I'm tired of waiting for Mazda to get the part to replace it. I want somthing that I can fit into the stock box with ease, don't want to have to do any real heavy modding to it. So what's the best way to go.

JL 8w0.
Its not going to make a huge difference in sound but it will in reliability for the ~$70 you pay for it.
 
MazdaspeedZOOM said:
There's two different JL audio 8" subs, both of which say they work well in small ported enclosures and don't require a lot of power. I think i may look into these as an option.

Incase it was intended, the stock MSP enclosure is sealed not ported. The JL subs can be used in either box type though.
 
II-Savy said:
Is the efficiancy the same as the Kenwood? You don't want that sub to be screemin' while the rest of the system isn't.

Efficency is a fairly useless stat. I would not give it any of your attention. The JL sub will likely be louder if the factory sub is indeed an 8 ohm sub as many have suggested it may be. If it is that may have been done to keep the heat down on the inverted amp (yes its a terrible design) Running a 4 ohm sub may cause amp failure. This is all totaly wrong of coarse if the factory sub is indeed a 4 ohm driver.
 
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