i heard that if you run synthetic you have to do it from the start of the engines life, is that true? my mechanic said this, so its not like one of my friends who doesn't know anything
VERY wrong. There is a big difference in filters. They are not just 'empty cans'. And to those paying 10-20 for a K&N, Onlinemazdaparts.com has OEM (best filter, period) for 7$.
Yea but unless you live around charlotte, you have to pay extra for shipping
I ran durablend in my P5 but it's hard to find...if you're over 75k, switch to MaxLife blend. Valvoline is good oil and doesn't cost you an arm and a leg. 5qt jug at Walmart for less than $20. Get a good filter...none of this Fram crap. There are a lot of highly recommended ones, but I like the purolator pureone filter. It's cheaper and has a very high filtration rate.
Since my Mazda parts guy is a bud, I get OEM filters free for both of our '03.5s (P5, ES). BTW, many posters here follow what may be considered "The Word" found in most motor oil references--OEM filters are better than aftermarket choices, including the K&N, or any other so-called "premium" filter.
Both of our Mazdas run Valvoline 5W-20 syn. My '5 uses a quart between 6-7K mile changes--engine has 140K--and is driven primarily at 65-75 mph daily. Wife's ES (58K) burns little, if any, between changes.
Some wrenches claim you will use more syn than dino between changes because of molecular differences in syn vs. dino oil, though from everything I've been able to research this is open to question.
i ran it in my car and i had to put more in every 500 miles so i got motul oil and i was able to go 5000 miles with nothing missing like he said it gets thin fast and then just burns up
Wtf is motul oil?
It doesn't "get thin" any faster then normal oil does. If anything, your cheapo oil is too thick...
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=motul+oil
not meaning to be a jerk but ive been waiting to use this website for a while now