What kind/brand of oil do you use?

so 5w 30 seems to be the majority, I guess i technically didn't mean brand as in penzoil, castrol, etc but what weight but I'm going sometime this week to change my oil and will go with a 5w 30 this time....thanks everyone :)
 
Stick with changing oil every 3k miles (combined) unless you do 85% highway then 5k miles is not bad.

Where you live is hot so changing oil every 3k miles or 3 months the most is best since oil gets used quick in hot weathers thats why ppl tend to use thicker oil.

Your guy - recommended you 20/50 maybe bc he used that on "Domestic Mucle Cars(?)" , they aren't too friendly to thinner oil.
BTW - 20/50 is used mostly in medium to highly modified imported street cars

5w30 might be thin compare to 10w30 etc but its enough suited for MS3 though , thinner oil worm up quick thus reducing worm up time and they lubricate engines faster then thicker oils, turbo's work better on thinner oil as well (then again going with 0w30 is not recommended for MS3=too thin)
 
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I run Pennzoil Platinum 10W-30.

Back when I was doing my first oil change I read on the forums that under oil analysis it was found to be of roughly the same viscosity as competing 5W-30's and to have good results following use in the MZR 2.3 DISI turbo. This may not be the most current information, but it seemed legit at the time, and I've had good results.

Plus it's pretty reasonably priced at my local Walmart.
 
And most of them mentioned are pretty good too. I am using royal purple 5-30 but will change to a heavier 5-40 for this summer.
 
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I have a question on oil additives, My dad has always run Lucas Oil stabilizer in pretty much any engine he has had. Is this stuff safe to run in the MS3? Any place/person that I talk to said it is well worth putting in to extend life of the engine and such. I think they reccommend putting in a 5:1 ratio of this mixed with regular oil (5 part oil: 1 part Lucas) They make it for synth and conventional oils. Any thoughts on this stuff?

http://www.lucasoil.com/products/display_products_overviews.sd?iid=4&catid=6
 
I have a question on oil additives, My dad has always run Lucas Oil stabilizer in pretty much any engine he has had. Is this stuff safe to run in the MS3? Any place/person that I talk to said it is well worth putting in to extend life of the engine and such. I think they reccommend putting in a 5:1 ratio of this mixed with regular oil (5 part oil: 1 part Lucas) They make it for synth and conventional oils. Any thoughts on this stuff?

http://www.lucasoil.com/products/display_products_overviews.sd?iid=4&catid=6
http://www.lucasoil.com/products/display_products_overviews.sd?iid=4&catid=6[/quote]check checkout, Bob the oil guy website might answer some questions.
 
Castrol 5W-30 Synthetic (Probably Syntec, it's made by them for BMW and has BMW labeling on the bottle, but Castrol on the boxes).
 
Pennzoil Platinum 5/30 here. I have a local Tires Plus to typically offers coupons for a good deal so I stick with it.
 
Royal Purple. I think it's expensive but whatever. It's full synthetic and I like the way the car seems to run with it.
 
hey i have a question about the mazda protege 5 transmission on year 02 and 03. is it the automatic that has a problem or the standard
 
The key thing here is 1). use the factory recommended viscoscity which is 5w30. 2).Use a high quality synthetic oil and change the oil at conservative intervals - I change my oil at 4k miles. 3). Use a Mazda oil filter and buy it at the dealer...if there are oil related engine problems while in the warranty period, the last thing you need is for them to find is a non stock filter.

And finally....Both Mobil 1 and Pennzoil Platinum in the 5w30 weight carry the Honda/Acura spec HTO-06. This is significant - it means that these two oils have passed testing in Honda's turbocharged engine - I believe it's the Acura RDX that has Hondas turbo'd mill. Many other oils did not pass the HTO-06.

Does that make them bad oils? Not necessarily - it's just that an oil with the spec has had the s*** tested out of it and has satisfied Honda's engineers.
I use Pennzoil Platinum and at 27k miles the engine is spotless inside the valvecover and the engine is quiet.

My .02 Cheers!
 
Synthetic FTW! I hoestly think it's foolish to run anything else, unless you have a rotary engine in your car. From an engineering/scientific point of view, there is no reason not to. If the dealer tells you not to they are full of s***. I have had several cars reach well over 200k miles. All were run on synthetic. When the cars died it wasn't because the engine gave out, it was everything else on the car.

I use 5w-30. That is what weight the manual says. No real reason to think we can outsmart Mazdas engineering dept by coming up with something better. They spend alot of money looking into this. With synthetic you should be fine in pretty much any situation. On a molecular level it wont break down in intense heat like regular oil and in the cold it wont gue up as much.

I personally use Mobil1. It may not be the BEST oil out there but it certainly is a one of the better ones. I wouldn't waste your time worrying too much about exactly which oil you pick. As long as you go with something that isnt crap. Its more important that you change at the propper intervals then get the best of the best of the best. Currently I am changing ever 4500 to 5000 miles.

Penzoil platnum I just used for the first time, and everything seems good. I changed brands breifly because the M1 5w-30 has been hard to find due to an accident at one of Mobil's refineries. (only two quarts in all of worcester when i changed my oil last time) Hopefully by my next change that will be fixxed. The nice thing about the M1 and PP is they are quality iouls you can find almost anywhere. You can get a 5 quart jug of either at wally world for about $25.00 Autozone near me wants $30 for a 4 qt jug. Your car will take 6 qts to fill.

One more thing, its not a great idea to switch back and forth between synthetic and convetional. Try to pick one and stay with it.

-Pete
 
Synthetic FTW! I hoestly think it's foolish to run anything else, unless you have a rotary engine in your car.

-Pete


With the modern conventionals out there and the amount of additives they contain, there's very little proof that going synthetic is better given short change intervals. Synthetic might benefit someone who prefers longer intervals or who races/tracks their cars regularly. Other than it's really a waste of money. I could show you cars with over 200k using conventional and going strong. I can also show cars with engines using synthetic that didn't quite make it to 100k. One thing I can pretty much guarantee: the guy who changes his oil frequently will more than likely enjoy long engine life (barring any lemons or factory defects).
 

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