Agreed! I would definitely love to see a build thread for both the MSP and P5, or both combined.
Makes sense. It would have to be a P5, MSP, SR20 Miata build thread though. The Miata is most important project; the Protege’s just needed some love.
Agreed! I would definitely love to see a build thread for both the MSP and P5, or both combined.
Brought forward from your original list of things to do.issues I need to address are...a couple of CEL codes.
FWIW, these are like $18 from Amazon and install in a few minutes. If this doesn't clear the CEL, then you might also need to get a Charcoal Purge Valve (it's under the rear bumper).
No experience with that AC fan speed adapter (or the headlight adapter).Alas I am plagued by the common AC fan speed issue - no AC on anything but speed 1, not even a flicker. I've tried the resistor fix twice, with little success.
Another enthusiast recently pointed me toward this cool adapter, which supposedly fixes this problem. Anybody on here order one of them, or have any experience to speak of? Just wondering if this will work any better than my resistor hack. I'm no stranger to wiring, and don't want to spend money if it's a simple problem I can fix myself.
I've done lots of searching and reading on here, but haven't seen many other fixes worth trying. Feel free to throw them at me if I've missed them.
PCB had to lead me to it like a horse to water as the original valve was configured differently.
My Mom used to say that her Dad used to say,.., that you can lead a horse to drink, but you can't make it water. Lol
Alas I am plagued by the common AC fan speed issue - no AC on anything but speed 1, not even a flicker. I've tried the resistor fix twice, with little success...
Haha...normally I'd complain that that isn't OEM+ enough, but the temps these days are making me reconsider. Going to be 104F today and I'm wishing I had just about anything better than my current setup.This is what my four relays look like, and kind of how they are wired.
My fan switch was sorta burnt, but it was good enough to handle the 20 milliamps for the relays.
I might be able to find some better pictures.
A new fan switch should help your problem.
They had a revised, beefier fan switch for late model P5's. 2003.5 models.
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I've got some more drawings somewhere, but photobucket may have stolen them...
Here's another diagram of what I did...
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You basically cut the 5 wires of the fan switch connector and put the relays in between.
Some people have had their resistor pack burn out, or the wiring to it, but a burned out fan switch/connector is way more common.
I used 30 amp relays ($10 each) and there is no voltage drop across them.
A 1.1 Volt drop across the fan switch will kick out your AC on fan speeds 2 and 3.
I should check if my AC wiring is toasty. If I understand what you're saying, the current of the AC system is what causes things to degrade in that regard, and that's something I could investigate and potentially fix.
Haha...normally I'd complain that that isn't OEM+ enough, but the temps these days are making me reconsider. Going to be 104F today and I'm wishing I had just about anything better than my current setup.
If you have the resistor fix installed as well as a new fan switch, you should be good to go.
That adapter could help too.
It's all about having a really good connection with very low resistance so that your sense circuit doesn't activate.
Finally got the retrofits down out of the attic I have had for years and tightened up the projectors to the reflectors. Think I'm gonna luck out and not have to bake them open to stabilize the shaky projectors. Tightened them a good bit and put red loctite on the threads. Also made sure the cutoffs are level.Found new h1 hid bulbs in box with lights. Ordered the spring clips needed to hold them in projector. Have a pr of morimoto 35w ballasts and battery harness from another hid setup on hand. Getting bulbs secure in projectors is only holdup on them going in the car. Have some yellow halogen brights and silverstar parking bulbs out of the current halogen fixtures....can't wait to go back with hid lows in proper housings with correct cutoffs and effective halogen brights as well. Matters since no fogs in msp lip......
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If it doesn't stop pinging, you may need a new knock sensor.
Check the condition of your knock sensor.
They go bad over time and the gell turns to goo and starts running.
It's located right above the oil filter.
(there is a code for it, but it doesn't monitor performance, just the circuit itself.)
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A new knock sensor may actually fix your pinging without having to use premium gas ?
(but I'm guessing)
The ECU is supposed to adjust ignition timing and such to stop pinging.
Well, I just got back from an oil change at the dealer and they said I had a bad knock sensor.
Then again, I have recently installed an MP3 ECU. But if it doesn't ping with 87 octane and a new knock sensor, I may run 87 or 89 some of the time depending on gas prices.
How did they know that you had a bad knock sensor ?
Did you have the code?
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I'm pretty sure that you'll have to use premium gas with an MP3 ECU.
Maybe just try a 1/4 tank of regular to find out, then you can top it up with premium if it pings.
Pinging can damage your engine.
My knock sensor is also kind of gooey like yours, and has been for several years. I've never seen a code for it, but my mechanic has told me that it needs to be replaced. I was also shocked buy the cost of a new OEM or even decent quality aftermarket sensor. I'm not exactly sure what pinging sounds like, but If you replace that sensor and your pinging goes away, maybe I should do mine as well.I was wondering the same thing after reviewing your post where you mention that a bad knock sensor should actually throw a code... and I've never, ever had a knock sensor code. How else could they know it's bad, aside from a visual inspection? The service manager did say it was "dripping," or something to that effect. I do know that it's gooey as I checked it the last time I was under the car.
The description on the inspection printout recommends "Replace engine knock sensor due to oil leak." (They may have been dumbing things down a bit for the average customer there...) I know that good knock sensors at Rock Auto cost north of $50, but I was a little surprised to see a price tag of $462 for the dealer to do it as it looks bog simple to replace.
The other recommendation from their multipoint inspection was to fix a leaking left-front axle, and their price to do that seemed quite fair at $276. Note that they can't get their hands on a Mazda OEM axle right now, and would use a third party part so that might be part of the reason that the price seems low.
The mechanic who works on my car (the one who owns the P5) is great. Even if I distrusted the service manager, I'd trust this mechanic, and I always chat with him when I bring the car in for an oil change or for service I can't do, or just can't do at my apartment.