What have you done to your P5 today?

1. Took off the Yakima roof rack.
2. Washed the car.
3. Shook head in dismay at the amount of pollen that accumulated on it in about 4 hours after the washing.

It's about ready to go to the Mitty!
 
Filled up... $55 FTL... but that will happen with 93 V-Power. Also, I somehow managed to get 36 MPG with that tank, I have never gotten that much before.
 
I was going to correct myself after looking at my rear endlinks today... oops!

According to the Mazda P5 manual, the nuts for the endlinks should both be on the outside of the sway bar and shock tab. The nuts should be facing you with the bolts coming from the back pointing towards you.
 
The parts are coming in.....oil sandwhich plate and Pres and temp gauges.....tomorrow should have surround to try at a gauge pod......tyranny(with LSD) and clutch sitting at 'rents in TX....tyranny needs tlc and don't know yet about LSD......anyone close to Bryan, TX making a trip close to NC anytime soon?
 
Just curious, why the hell would you bring your car to Maaco?

Only local shop I've found, so far, that will do rust repair. Should I go to them I'm going to take another members advice and ask them to do the repairs and I'll go to another shop for paint.

I came across similar information, I have been using a red top for over 7 years now, but doesn't seem they will be worth it when it comes time to replace.


So where is your "cancer" - rear wheel panel where bumper meets panel and/or bottom of doors?? damn rust!!!

RR quarter panel where it meets the bumper, ends of both rocker panels and PS strut tower in the engine bay. Doors and hatch are ok *knocks on wood*

I think something is wrong with your car jeff!

Yeah and with gas creeping up to $4 a gallon I need to get it fixed asap. Ruled out the tank as I don't smell it in the cabin and O2 sensors since I have no CEL. Maybe a cat? I did check two of my plugs late last week and they were carboned up and gap was a bit off so I'm going to replace them as well. I've also noticed lately that the car hesitates when starting from a stop...not a lot but today I noticed that it felt like it wanted to stall out yet idling at a stop is just fine (right around 500rpms consistently).

Did you shift out of 2nd gear?

hahahahahaha...nope I have a slushbox.
 
Nope, in D the entire time. I know it's no the best for mpgs but I used to get 40-45 miles before the needle would move, now I'm getting that over the first 1/4 tank? Last fill-up the gas light had just come on and I had around 250 miles to the tank.
 
Changed the timing belt! Just have to find a clutch alignment tool so I can bolt the tranny up, and it's ready to drop in!
 
How was it Josh and where did you get the parts from? Still have to order them here and have to admit the job itself still intimidates me a bit. Plus you were able to do it with the engine on a stand.
 
Bigger pain in the ass than I thought!!! Only because my cam gears and crank got all out of whack and it took 2 hours to finally get everything to line up!

I'm updating my build thread right now about it...check over there in a few. :)
 
you def need an extra set of hands when installing the TB. sometimes it just seems like the belt is one tooth too short
 
Its easy once you know how to do it, ive done mine 3 times and a friends a few times. I just ine up the cams first, get everything on the ribbed parts, then slide it over the tensioner once I have it turned all the way loose with an allen wrench. I can prob do one in like 40 mins lol...its sad that ive had that much practice
 
Its easy once you know how to do it, ive done mine 3 times and a friends a few times. I just ine up the cams first, get everything on the ribbed parts, then slide it over the tensioner once I have it turned all the way loose with an allen wrench. I can prob do one in like 40 mins lol...its sad that ive had that much practice

In one of the many many times trying different ways, I'd try and line the cams first. But, when I'd put the belt on, there was too much slack in between the cams, so by the time I'd put the tensioner on (or tighten it up) the slack would come out and move the cams! Or, I'd get them close, then with tension, the crank would move. A few times, everything looked ok, but the cam marks were juuuuuusst a **** hair off. I'm not even sure how I finally got it. lol
 
Its been raining since last thursday, today i washed the car at the shop and the 2-3yr sealant is holding up quite well. water beads up nicely, and drips and evaps within seconds w/ no waterspots :)
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Its been raining since last thursday, today i washed the car at the shop and the 2-3yr sealant is holding up quite well. water beads up nicely, and drips and evaps within seconds w/ no waterspots :)
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You are going to wash your paint off one of these times (rofl2) Hopefully quick question for ya... whats the best way to remove fallout from a car... clay?
 
You are going to wash your paint off one of these times (rofl2) Hopefully quick question for ya... whats the best way to remove fallout from a car... clay?
hahaha lmao thats what my mom tells me all the time, yea Go with clay, and use quick detailer or a 10:1 mixture of water(10 and soap (1) usually dish soap (dawns) to get all oil and grime off best :) then come in with wax or some type of sealant.

Good god do something else to your car other than clean it all the time lmao...
haha lmao i fixed my 12v socket on saturday :)
and im getting a new battery this weekend lols
 
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