can anyone recommend a rear bumper guard I could get as a substitute for the p5 one? my bumper doesnt have one and just has the double sided tape which will peel the paint if i remove it. i guess i could just refinish the bumper but id really like to get a guard on there.
What have you done to your P5 today?
- Thread starter Tg5
- Start date
- :
- -- 03 P5 / 23 CX-5 --
Came across this old pic.......
Still have this stuff if anyone is interested in it. I will provide fresh pics with signage if so. PM...............
Still have this stuff if anyone is interested in it. I will provide fresh pics with signage if so. PM...............
Died for an unknown reason...had it towed to the dealer where I insisted the vehicle was not safe to drive given it had a bad fuel pump (discovered there), oil leaks, a bad radiator, steering fluid leak...and so forth.
Depending on their willingness to fix the car (never buying "As-Is" again) and their ability to report payments to the credit bureaus; I may end up walking away from this one. :/
Depending on their willingness to fix the car (never buying "As-Is" again) and their ability to report payments to the credit bureaus; I may end up walking away from this one. :/
Swapped my msp front struts and eibach sportlines to the p5 tonight. one of the endlinks was co-operative, but the other had to be cut, so im rolling with no front rollbar atm. still. corners much better dispite the rears being stock. bit of a rake but i lost about 2" up front. my 16's almost tuck.
ill prob end up swapping out the struts with the p5 ones as the msp ones are pretty worn. the p5 had a much smoother ride so i think the struts are good. should last at least long enough to get replacements. the rears ill have to swap anyway or suffer the msp rake on my non msp eibach sportlines heh.
ill prob end up swapping out the struts with the p5 ones as the msp ones are pretty worn. the p5 had a much smoother ride so i think the struts are good. should last at least long enough to get replacements. the rears ill have to swap anyway or suffer the msp rake on my non msp eibach sportlines heh.
Jackie chan
Member
- :
- Pro5
Acquired A set of minty JDM tails, a mazdaspeed front swaybar, Progress rear swaybar, AWR rear swaybar links, and mazdaspeed aluminum door sills today. Quite a haul. woohoo.
aww man. i want some jdm tails..
never noticed it on my msp cause the car is so loud, but i think my front rollbar is moving enough to clank against the control arm when braking. so im gonna try to fish my custom links from the msp this weekend and if they are long enough, swap them to the front of p5. but if they aren't.. im wondering if i could use 3/8 aluminum tube with a 1/16 wall for the endlink bodies, just thread them. not as ideal as solid barstock clearly, but considering the torque direction endlinks suffer, i think it should work...
ill have to pull the front struts again and compare them to the p5 ones.. msp struts still do shock things, but sound squishy. might get to the rear this weekend, but id like to get the exhaust on it. just gonna cut the tip off and save it from the msp, clamp on a generic exhaust tip.
still have a front bumper, msp front lip, hood and passenger mirror to paint at work. after all that im not far from pulling the passenger fender, painting that.. refreshing the passenger doors. then i will have painted everything on the car that isnt part of the unibody lol. definitely gonna do the rear bumper.. might do the roof black, or just wrap it black..
315 km engine purrs like a kitten. transmission is smooth as silk, ride super smooth and nice.. you would never know I saved this car from the recycler for $300.. lol
never noticed it on my msp cause the car is so loud, but i think my front rollbar is moving enough to clank against the control arm when braking. so im gonna try to fish my custom links from the msp this weekend and if they are long enough, swap them to the front of p5. but if they aren't.. im wondering if i could use 3/8 aluminum tube with a 1/16 wall for the endlink bodies, just thread them. not as ideal as solid barstock clearly, but considering the torque direction endlinks suffer, i think it should work...
ill have to pull the front struts again and compare them to the p5 ones.. msp struts still do shock things, but sound squishy. might get to the rear this weekend, but id like to get the exhaust on it. just gonna cut the tip off and save it from the msp, clamp on a generic exhaust tip.
still have a front bumper, msp front lip, hood and passenger mirror to paint at work. after all that im not far from pulling the passenger fender, painting that.. refreshing the passenger doors. then i will have painted everything on the car that isnt part of the unibody lol. definitely gonna do the rear bumper.. might do the roof black, or just wrap it black..
315 km engine purrs like a kitten. transmission is smooth as silk, ride super smooth and nice.. you would never know I saved this car from the recycler for $300.. lol
Jackie chan
Member
- :
- Pro5
Just buy two 3/8x24 thread turnbuckles and 3/8 heim joints. That is all that the awr adjustables really are.
that sounds lovely, but im in canada and anything like that is weeks away. i had to make my last set via mcmaster. i can buy the rodends i need locally, but no one, esp not the people who sell the rodends, sells the correct threaded rod =\ though i would like hex right and left hand threaded bars but thats way too ambitious for local suppliers here.
i think ill just buy some solid rod stock, tap it, be done. broke atm. gonna try the tubes.
i think ill just buy some solid rod stock, tap it, be done. broke atm. gonna try the tubes.
31N007
31N007
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- Mazda Protege5
Valk, a friend did exactly what you mentioned to recreate our AWR endlinks. Tube stock and then tap them at a later date. LHT and RHT in the right size shouldn't add up to more than $15, then the mat'ls are what, $70-80? (I don't buy tube stock often)
I know for our school's SAE team, we get our rodends/ heims for cheap, but otherwise they would be about $15/piece for what we'd want/need, which isn't dreadful.
The only issue is whether you'll get the necessary clearances with the heims versus the OE endlink, but if you're running an OE swaybar, I'm not sure that'd be an issue. On our car, we have an AWR bar that doesn't want to play nice with the adjustable endlinks. That's why I warn you. The offset between the bar and endlink mounting location on the strut is high enough to where the angle of the dangle bent the rod end. Now, it hadn't broke, so that might mean it got bent once and that was that, but still, then it's not as adjustable.
I know for our school's SAE team, we get our rodends/ heims for cheap, but otherwise they would be about $15/piece for what we'd want/need, which isn't dreadful.
The only issue is whether you'll get the necessary clearances with the heims versus the OE endlink, but if you're running an OE swaybar, I'm not sure that'd be an issue. On our car, we have an AWR bar that doesn't want to play nice with the adjustable endlinks. That's why I warn you. The offset between the bar and endlink mounting location on the strut is high enough to where the angle of the dangle bent the rod end. Now, it hadn't broke, so that might mean it got bent once and that was that, but still, then it's not as adjustable.
well the aluminum tube i sniped is kinda soft, prob 5052 aluminum. its very light and brushed finish. i know its not going to be super ideal for any kind of weight carrying capacity, but the endlinks in question stand pretty straight up in the front and should only have torque compressing/extending. the question is more if the self threading of the brass rod ends would have enough meat to hold it all totether during extension.
im using the brass female rod ends with carbon fiber race outlined int he how to thread. i used stainless threaded rod for the existing links i want to modify but they are only about 8" long center to center. pretty sure front links need to be 12-14"?
im pretty sure the rods/8 rod ends and all the hardware i needed to install to the car was under $65 but that was when the exchange was better. if my budget was limitless, id just buy hex rod stock and lathe my own lh/rh threads and buy appropriate balljoints. of course at that point im not that far from the awr ones.
just looking for a grassroots solution as im kinda low on money atm after the rebuild. i guess the first stop is to see if i can make my existing ones work. bar wouldnt be parallal but i could prob make them closer to 10" long.
the rears i dont really care. id just take the bar off. much much easier than trying to remove the front.
im using the brass female rod ends with carbon fiber race outlined int he how to thread. i used stainless threaded rod for the existing links i want to modify but they are only about 8" long center to center. pretty sure front links need to be 12-14"?
im pretty sure the rods/8 rod ends and all the hardware i needed to install to the car was under $65 but that was when the exchange was better. if my budget was limitless, id just buy hex rod stock and lathe my own lh/rh threads and buy appropriate balljoints. of course at that point im not that far from the awr ones.
just looking for a grassroots solution as im kinda low on money atm after the rebuild. i guess the first stop is to see if i can make my existing ones work. bar wouldnt be parallal but i could prob make them closer to 10" long.
the rears i dont really care. id just take the bar off. much much easier than trying to remove the front.
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- 2016 GT ST 47A
Finally made an appt to have the powered sub http://mbquart.com/mbps8152/ installed with a local audio shop. I had hoped to install it myself but that just hasn't been in the cards since December. I know the owners and they do quality work so I'll bite the bullet and pay them for their labor. My daughter is going to be very happy as this was a Christmas present for her. Now I just hope the extra bass doesn't rattle body panels off. lol
heh. the aluminum tubes definitely werent gonna work lol. gave up on that and deleted the swaybar until i get replacements. got one strut in yesterday, wasted time trying to swap the springs but i guess i ended up with msp rear springs after all. was trying to get sedan/p5 springs. ah well. i swapped one strut assembly over yesterday, gonna do the other one this morning and try to get some other parts off the msp before dropping it to hibernate again. once i get the exhaust off and front splitter, i dont really need to lift it anymore until the engine work. though im tempted to put the msp shifter in the p5. im not a fan of how short it is but it feels pretty good with my bushings.
Hit a nice big pot hole in the city, while the car was busy bucking and stomping while trying to get up the hill. Moments after the pot hole BS, excessive exhaust noise and drop in power occurred. Exhaust manifold broken. Car parked until the Manzo header arrives. Thankful for this forum, or my car would have fallen apart and or been just over priced OEM replacement parts.
This is exactly why I keep two cars at all times, so took the Shinka "racecar" to work today.
This is exactly why I keep two cars at all times, so took the Shinka "racecar" to work today.
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- 2016 GT ST 47A
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- 2002 Mazda Protege
Found a picture of my car on stance nation, cool (nana)
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- 2002 Mazda Protege
Lol thanks, I dont need the points tho, I build the car to my tastes. If you dont like the stance now, Its gonna be horrible in a few months when I get my new wheels in haha
Jackie chan
Member
- :
- Pro5
Today I scored a mazda6 rear wiper, an s2000 antenna, Kartboy Shifter, Greddy counterweight knob, and a set of MSP pedal covers (Which were a serious pain to install).
come wrap my car for extra points!!
