What have you done to your P5 today?

Halloween night, parked it at my house when I got home. Turned it on this morning and realized it rolled 150k in my driveway. Got lots of parts coming next week. Had these parts shipped to me a few months ago and customs was being dumb -.-

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I'm going to attempt changing my timing belt and both accessory belts sometime soon (maybe throw on an underdrive pulley while I'm at it). I have the service manual downloaded, but does anyone have any tips or tricks that wouldn't be in there? I'm not sure how to properly set belt tension without any fancy tools, so will "eh, that feels pretty close" work?
 
+1^ im taking the head off though so putting it on I'll need to guess. Just mark on the tensioner screws with a bit of paint or something. That should maybe provide good starting point to tightness?
 
That makes sense, thanks for the input guys. I'm guessing marking the screw won't work if I swap on an underdrive pulley, right?
 

funny enough I read that thread and came out thinking it was a good idea. Ill just go th a local junkyard and see if I can pull the tube off another protege. I was pissed but trying to be optimistic a out the fact that my pal bent the pipe like it was rubber :/ he ended up tightening the nut thing on it before realizing he was going the wrong way :S hopefully that and a few sheared rusty bolts are the only damages we end up encountering.

Much appreciated again for the advice :)
 
I'm going to attempt changing my timing belt and both accessory belts sometime soon (maybe throw on an underdrive pulley while I'm at it). I have the service manual downloaded, but does anyone have any tips or tricks that wouldn't be in there? I'm not sure how to properly set belt tension without any fancy tools, so will "eh, that feels pretty close" work?

  • While you're in there, change everything you can: valve cover gasket, water pump+gasket, rear main seal, idler/tensioner, and the tensioner spring.
  • You'll probably crack the timing belt covers when you remove them, but they can easily be repaired if you sand the parts down and bond them back together with 5min epoxy.
  • A lot of people recommend supporting the engine by the oil pan before removing the right motor mount. I'd recommend finding another way to support it, my oil pan ended up developing a microscopic crack which started leaking a few weeks later. If your mounts are in decent shape, I suspect you might be able to get away without even supporting the engine on that side. If I had to do it again, I'd use an engine support bar (HF has them for cheap).
  • Use a torque wrench to put everything back together!

Here are some pics from when I did my timing belt: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...-timing-belt&p=5237029&viewfull=1#post5237029


Regarding setting the right belt tension, here's how I do it:
  1. Find the belt's longest run between any two pulleys.
  2. Press down on the middle of that section with your thumb.
  3. If you can deflect it more than 1cm, then it's probably too loose.

A similar method is presented in the service manual in the "Engine/Mechanical" section. Of course you could always just tighten it a little looser than old belts and hope they don't make noise. It's always best to have to take the time to re-tighten a loose belt then over-tightening it in the first place.
 
Bought all new plastic clips for my side skirt, Reattached two of the brackets that broke off. JB Welded everything for extra support. Installing during lunch :)
 
Forgot to mention...

Was talking to BikingPro5 Yesterday. His protege5 was built AFTER my Mazda3, and my Protege5 was built in 2001!!!!!!!!!!!

Check your production dates inside your driver door...crazy stuff
 
Much appreciated CheeseHelmet; I'll attempt it in the next week or so, and maybe do a writeup of my own if I come up with anything clever. I'm not too worried about the engine sagging; I have all 4 70-duro AWR mounts, so the engine barely moves when one is removed.
 
with rust forming on the quarter panels and in the engine bay by the passenger strut mount, it gets me wondering if i should get rid of the p5 sooner than later. i feel it will be expensive to fix that rust in the engine bay
 
with rust forming on the quarter panels and in the engine bay by the passenger strut mount, it gets me wondering if i should get rid of the p5 sooner than later. i feel it will be expensive to fix that rust in the engine bay

I you can already see it on the strut tower, it's too late. You can either remove the fender liner and pull chunks of (what used to be) metal from under the fender support, OR you can just continue living your life like there's nothing wrong. I think the latter option is the more rational one...
 
Just pulled pistons out. That windage tray... And now, I wait to get parts :) my pal said I should go forged and do a mild port and polish...(I think that's right?) Idk though, money I dont have right this second :S

Ill post pictures in my build thread. I should really work on putting a link to it in my signature but I gotta get to where I can edit it first :)
 
Just pulled pistons out. That windage tray... And now, I wait to get parts :) my pal said I should go forged and do a mild port and polish...(I think that's right?) Idk though, money I dont have right this second :S

Ill post pictures in my build thread. I should really work on putting a link to it in my signature but I gotta get to where I can edit it first :)

Mild? Go all out... Fire Sauce... if you will.
 

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