What have you done to your P5 today?

KingOfSpades007 said:
Ill +2 ^

Mmm, what oil do you guys recommend? Ill give the PO a call and ask what he used but I picked up 10w-30 castrol synthetic. Any users? Also, I picked up 2 ton jackstands. Are they gonna be strong enough?
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I run 5W-30 year round. Some frown upon it, but I usually don't have the time to change the oil in the winter, so I change it towards the middle of fall (which means I'm due for a change). Being in MI this winter, you'll most likely want to run the 5W. It's supposed to be much colder than last year and the 5W will get pumping quicker than the 10W, decreasing engine wear through the winter months. 10W-30 is fine in the summer because your oil is most likely thin enough to get moving from cold start, and it operates the same as the 5W-30 at operating temp.

I hope that was organized enough... just my 2-cents

... and yes, I go well beyond 5K miles between changes.
 
jdmdude07 said:
I run 5W-30 year round. Some frown upon it, but I usually don't have the time to change the oil in the winter, so I change it towards the middle of fall (which means I'm due for a change). Being in MI this winter, you'll most likely want to run the 5W. It's supposed to be much colder than last year and the 5W will get pumping quicker than the 10W, decreasing engine wear through the winter months. 10W-30 is fine in the summer because your oil is most likely thin enough to get moving from cold start, and it operates the same as the 5W-30 at operating temp.

I hope that was organized enough... just my 2-cents

... and yes, I go well beyond 5K miles between changes.
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I found it to be organized enough :) I find myself taking the long way to phrase things. Only reason I picked up 10W (Sorry, I shouldn't have asked for advice...) is becase I don't plan on running it until April ish. If I run it sooner then for sure I'll go out and pick up some 5W. I've got some fixing up to do with the valve seals and all. My dad's out of state 'till then so I'll be able to use his car :)

I look at it this way: I was planning on spending money on a stereo but I like what's in there so I'll spend it on fixing her up. $100 on valve seals, both the exh and intake. those and the valve cover gasket too...

That's way cheaper than a freaking stereo. Then, if it's really that bad and I need to do the piston rings, I can still (rightfully) justify $200 there too.

It'll suck if I have to go that far but I'll live I guess. I'm in love with the car and I plan on making it last :)

Oh, and quickie: would the fact that the car is burning oil have anything to do with the fact that I'm getting an emmissions based CEL? The PO said it had to do with emissions but he didn't exactly specify... :S
 
KingOfSpades007 said:
I found it to be organized enough :) I find myself taking the long way to phrase things. Only reason I picked up 10W (Sorry, I shouldn't have asked for advice...) is becase I don't plan on running it until April ish. If I run it sooner then for sure I'll go out and pick up some 5W. I've got some fixing up to do with the valve seals and all. My dad's out of state 'till then so I'll be able to use his car :)

I look at it this way: I was planning on spending money on a stereo but I like what's in there so I'll spend it on fixing her up. $100 on valve seals, both the exh and intake. those and the valve cover gasket too...

That's way cheaper than a freaking stereo. Then, if it's really that bad and I need to do the piston rings, I can still (rightfully) justify $200 there too.

It'll suck if I have to go that far but I'll live I guess. I'm in love with the car and I plan on making it last :)

Oh, and quickie: would the fact that the car is burning oil have anything to do with the fact that I'm getting an emmissions based CEL? The PO said it had to do with emissions but he didn't exactly specify... :S
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If she's not going to be run until April, or even a few times before then, 10W I assume would be fine. Plus, if she's in a garage it will be even better for the 10W.

Do you know the exact code for the CEL? I just read the codes from the Torque app Googled it. Turned out to be the VICS solenoid. $70 and everything was fixed... sans dealer.

I was lucky enough to have my stereo from my last Protege (1995 LX) so I didn't have to buy one for the P5. Made the speakers sound a hell of a lot better. Anyways, if you're not driving her till April, the stereo can wait till then IMO.
 
That's my train of thought exactly :) im actually just so chuffed to care about the stereo. Its better than my parents stereos IMO and im more concerned about her running right. got the jackstands and oil filter. Picked oil and air filter up too :) gonna get the valve cover gasket and valve seals and hopefully do that this weekend :) im actually excited to spend money on her!
 
KingOfSpades007 said:
Ill +2 ^

Also, I picked up 2 ton jackstands. Are they gonna be strong enough?
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Totally. That rating means they can hold 2 tons each. The P5 isn't 2 tons, and I doubt you'll be balancing all the weight of the car on one jackstand, anyway. ...If you do, please get pictures! ;)
 
yeah, the P5 curb weight is 2,752 which is less than 1.5 tons. One jackstack could hold your car's weight by itself, but balancing would be a challenge lol. By using four jack stacks, you are distributing that 2,752 pounds across four stands capable of supporting 16k pounds
 
Ive seen 2 ton stands fail with less than 1500lb race car on them.. just make sure to slide the rims under the car under the sills same time just in case..

as for my P5 i drove her to work this morning in the rain and wind from Sandy..
 
Anyone got a spare stock catback if so pm me .

Gonna make a new mods part out thread this week
 
Foolish said:
Totally. That rating means they can hold 2 tons each. The P5 isn't 2 tons, and I doubt you'll be balancing all the weight of the car on one jackstand, anyway. ...If you do, please get pictures! ;)
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sorry, I gotta be a smartass and say, that would be rather foolish of me to try and do that ;) Im still kinda scared to go under it but i put the jacks at the jacking points :)

I'll do the rim thing too, gotta take the time off first :S I think the PO used an air ratchet thingy cause the bolts are on there good. I may need a breaker bar :) and there's a headless bolt on the pass front rim :/ ohwell, ill get it off :)
 
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I frequently use a single stand when doing brake work. However, I use the rims AND the jack as backup on the side I'm working on. My torso is wider than the rim, so I don't trust it to save me from injury, just death. Haven't had a stand fail yet though. Hell, my '95 Protege sat on 4 stands for about 2 months out in the elements. Thank you Autozone! :p

Don't be scurred... just have backups.
 
One of the first mods I did was paint the stock wheels. My car sat like this for a whole day

jbkT9Nl8nrkjrP.JPG
 
Want/where to purchase a MSP 3.5 front lip. Does anyone know if it's still being sold and for how much? Also where can I get the foglight deletes if the MSP 3.5 front lip is no longer available. If the lip is still available, would the foglight deletes for the P5 work with the MSP lip or does it have it's own version.

Thank you to anyone who can provide any info.
 
JRRobiso said:
Want/where to purchase a MSP 3.5 front lip. Does anyone know if it's still being sold and for how much? Also where can I get the foglight deletes if the MSP 3.5 front lip is no longer available. If the lip is still available, would the foglight deletes for the P5 work with the MSP lip or does it have it's own version.

Thank you to anyone who can provide any info.
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buy the lip new from the dealer(350ish plus paint), the MSP lip needs MSP fogs. You can get fog delete new from the dealer or online mazda parts if you do not want the lip that fit your OE bumper
 
JDM_Pro5 said:
One of the first mods I did was paint the stock wheels. My car sat like this for a whole day

jbkT9Nl8nrkjrP.JPG
Click to expand...

do you have a pic of the jack location? Mines sitting odd in location to the bolts on the front... Ill post a pic of where i had it. Gonna take the rims off for safety :)
 
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PHP:
JDM_Pro5 said:
Unfortunetly I do not. That pic is from 2009/2010
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tis not a problem. I was just wondering. I hate to admit it but I almost jacked it up where that slot on the sideskirts is... Glad I realized it wasn't actually a jacking point :) you can tell I dont work on cars much...
 
As far as a jacking point, Under the transmission is a rounded knob on the sub frame. I jack from the front, it's a nice little jacking point. Near center and gets both front tires off the ground
 
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