lol it's a 4" tip! i'm surprised yours lasted this long, mine barely made 7 months...
What have you done to your P5 today?
- Thread starter Tg5
- Start date
lol it's a 4" tip! i'm surprised yours lasted this long, mine barely made 7 months...
Got my audio installed yesterday!
New Autotek components in the front doors.
Installed tweeters in mirror trim piece.
Ran wire through the door plug.
Autotek 6.5's in the rear doors, just ran off the radio.
Bass knob and footwell LED switch mounts.
Red footwell LED's.
900w 4channel under passenger seat.
Diamond Audio DS312D2.
Working on my brakes today, and hopefully finally hooking up my gauges. lol
New Autotek components in the front doors.
Installed tweeters in mirror trim piece.
Ran wire through the door plug.
Autotek 6.5's in the rear doors, just ran off the radio.
Bass knob and footwell LED switch mounts.
Red footwell LED's.
900w 4channel under passenger seat.
Diamond Audio DS312D2.
Working on my brakes today, and hopefully finally hooking up my gauges. lol
thanks
ProjectBlack
Member
- :
- 2003 Mazda Protege 5
Good to know. I have an appointment at Mazda on 9/5/11. They might replace it at no cost. I was in there initially because of the noise and they replaced my control arm bushings, and did an allignment. They said that was the cause of the noise and that it was fixed, but I picked it up and drove it about 30 feet and turned around. The noise actually got worse.
They replaced the sway bar bushings at no cost, and the noise was still there. Then the tech tried telling me it was because of my "lowering kit". I run tokico blues and Eibach Pro Kit. Not very low.
I'm assuming that a mechanic that removes the lower control arm should have probably noticed something wrong with the ball joint.
Since then, I have tightened the end link as much as possible, replaced the front and right motor mounts, and the transmission mount on the left.
We'll see what Mazda says. Needless to say, once the ball joint is fixed she'll be runnin just fine.
Thanks! It'll do, for now. lol
Unfortunately, the 6.5's that came in my component set were dead out of the box, so I had to put the Polk 6.5's back in. You get what you pay for I guess. lol For $35, it's not worth me ripping out all the stuff I installed, so I'm just going to leave the Polk's in there. They're a better speaker anyway. haha
Should be able to get my voltmeter and water temp gauges installed later this week. I have the Premium Peak Warning Prosport WT gauge, but it's super annoying to me, so I'm going to install the Performance series WT gauge. Oddly enough, this gauge was in the box that the PO gave me, but I still needed to order a harness. $15 shipped!
Unfortunately, the 6.5's that came in my component set were dead out of the box, so I had to put the Polk 6.5's back in. You get what you pay for I guess. lol For $35, it's not worth me ripping out all the stuff I installed, so I'm just going to leave the Polk's in there. They're a better speaker anyway. haha
Should be able to get my voltmeter and water temp gauges installed later this week. I have the Premium Peak Warning Prosport WT gauge, but it's super annoying to me, so I'm going to install the Performance series WT gauge. Oddly enough, this gauge was in the box that the PO gave me, but I still needed to order a harness. $15 shipped!
CheeseHelmet
Member
Lots of welding today. Sadly flux core wire welders aren't the best for welding body panels, I could only tack the floor panels because any longer and the heat would just blow through what's left of the floor metal. Also, the welds are butt-ugly (but that could simply be lack of skill on my part).
So now I need to seal the welds and the gaps between the welds. Any ideas on what I should use to do that?
Pics later, I'm too embarrassed to post my nasty welds.
So now I need to seal the welds and the gaps between the welds. Any ideas on what I should use to do that?
Pics later, I'm too embarrassed to post my nasty welds.
CheeseHelmet
Member
3M Heavy Bodied Seam Sealer, #8308. That's what I use at work.
That s*** looks awesome, but I'm guessing it'll be over $50 a tube here...
I have POR-15, so I'm going to coat everything in that first. Then I just need to fill the gaps, I can use RTV for that (something like this), right?
Yea, it's top of the line stuff...lol
I would ask around at any auto body supply stores in your area, to see if there's a more inexpensive product you could use. I mean, that stuff would work, but it just seems kind of "hoaky" to me. lol And forget about painting over it, being silicon based!
I would ask around at any auto body supply stores in your area, to see if there's a more inexpensive product you could use. I mean, that stuff would work, but it just seems kind of "hoaky" to me. lol And forget about painting over it, being silicon based!
CheeseHelmet
Member
Oh I didn't even think of that, but for the floor I don't think being able to properly paint it matters. There's a paint shop near my house, I'll swing by there before I go to Canadian Tire.
The plan is to cover everything in POR-15, fill the gaps with whatever sealant I find, cover the floors with two layers of 0.6mm insulation (similar to that "peel n seal" stuff), and finally coat the underside with a thick layer of asphalt undercoating.
How does that sound?
CheeseHelmet
Member
It's times like this when I'd like to push it into a lake...
Thanks for your help Josh!
canadian357
Member
- :
- 2003 Protege5, 1987 Honda Accord Type-R(rice)
To seal the gaps, you should try PL. Its a construction adhesive. Very much a home remedy, but I swear I would butter my toast with that s*** if I could. I love it.
CheeseHelmet
Member
I looked into it, there are only a couple which would work in this situation: "PL 375 HEAVY DUTY CONSTRUCTION ADHESIVE" and "PL POLYURETHANE ROOF & FLASHING SEALANT". All the others can't take the cold very very well. If I see it, I'll pick up a tube.
CheeseHelmet
Member
Today, I did more of the same (boooooooooooring).
@Canadian357: I found some "PL POLYURETHANE ROOF & FLASHING SEALANT" at Reno Depot so I picked up a couple tubes, it looks perfect for what I'm doing.
Here are some pictures of the patches I've done. Let's start with the rear driver side:
My bad welds:
And here's the front driver hole:
And here's it fixed up:
I also picked up a "knotted cup brush" attachment for my angle grinder, if you're doing this kind of work it's a really good too to have.
I was using it to "clean" the font passenger side this evening to prep for a coat of POR-15 when this happened:
This car ******* hates me, it's going to take another few hours to fix that s***. Grrrrrr.
@Canadian357: I found some "PL POLYURETHANE ROOF & FLASHING SEALANT" at Reno Depot so I picked up a couple tubes, it looks perfect for what I'm doing.
Here are some pictures of the patches I've done. Let's start with the rear driver side:
My bad welds:
And here's the front driver hole:
And here's it fixed up:
I also picked up a "knotted cup brush" attachment for my angle grinder, if you're doing this kind of work it's a really good too to have.
I was using it to "clean" the font passenger side this evening to prep for a coat of POR-15 when this happened:
This car ******* hates me, it's going to take another few hours to fix that s***. Grrrrrr.
justanothermp5
Banned
- :
- Rust Bucket
whenever your welding the panels, you have to make sure the metal is clean. Also do spot welds, dont try to run a bead because all you'll do is burn through.
Just do little spots all the way around the panel, try to go across the panel in a star pattern so you dont heat up one area too much and warp it...not that it really matters for what your doing, but a good habit to get into when welding in panels.
Just do little spots all the way around the panel, try to go across the panel in a star pattern so you dont heat up one area too much and warp it...not that it really matters for what your doing, but a good habit to get into when welding in panels.
