What have you done to your P5 today?

CTt3P5 said:
I have come to the conclusion that it is the lack of boost. At least that's what I tell Tamz. ;) She's not buying it.

I have a very good feeling it comes down to driving habits. I do have a little case of heavy foot on the highway but feel it comes down more to the city driving. I am bad at fast starts and late stops. Trying to improve but it's a bad habit I've had for many years.
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bazooka joe said:
how do you get worse mileage than me?:confused:
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Mark, see my quote above.

ucMP3 said:
How does this same question get asked to the same person once a week?
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He missed my response the first time around????
 
ZoomZoom03 said:
just curious if anyone knows the stock bolt size for the bolts used on mounting the hood, i believe there are four of them. Thanks in advance.
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Its a weird bolt because it has a shoulder on it to align the hood. Otherwise they "should" be m10x1.25 bolts...not sure of the length though
 
Im sticking with my MSP setup since I have front n rear MSP. I am happy with what I have and who ever buys these will save alot of money since they are Mazda and u dont need to pay a core charge for some off brand.
 
azmp5 said:
On Sat. or Sun I will post for sale, a front set of MZ6 brakes off a 2006. It will include 2 brackets , 2 rotors and 2 calipers. Price not determined. I will post the set in Protege for sale section.


Heres the thread if u want to read on size difference:

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123753320
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I thought it was the Speed6 brakes that was the upgrade...what is the difference in regular6 and the Speed6...are they not different...
 
ScratchNSniff said:
I thought it was the Speed6 brakes that was the upgrade...what is the difference in regular6 and the Speed6...are they not different...
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03-05 Mazda 6 => 11.1" rotors=> Fits no problem with a 16" wheel
06-07 Mazda 6 => 11.8" rotors=> Fits no problem with a 16" wheel
06-07 MazdaSpeed 6 => 12.2" rotors=> Must have a 17" wheel minimum


all these are an upgrade for any protege , P5 , or MSP.
 
Drained the coolant, flushed with distilled H20, changed the Tstat, refilled with coolant and distilled h20. The coolant was very brown and way past its shelf life.
 
MazdaSpeeder said:
Drained the coolant, flushed with distilled H20, changed the Tstat, refilled with coolant and distilled h20. The coolant was very brown and way past its shelf life.
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That sounds like something I'd like to do too. Mine is green but it's dark and probably could be changed at some point.
 
ive always wanted to do that too but i never knew how

so u drain the coolant at that little opening on the bottom of the radiator right? then what?
run the engine to get all the old coolant out? Ive never done this on mine so i should probably think about it lol
 
justanothermp5 said:
ive always wanted to do that too but i never knew how

so u drain the coolant at that little opening on the bottom of the radiator right? then what?
run the engine to get all the old coolant out? Ive never done this on mine so i should probably think about it lol
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I need to do this to my car as well, I'm not sure how but I guess you would pull the drain plug out of the radiator, or pull the lower rad. hose off. Then once all the coolant has drained put a hose in the top of the rad. and run water through the whole system, then once all the water has drained fill it back up with a coolant and water mix. I would NOT do it with the engine running.
 
hornsfan10609 said:
I need to do this to my car as well, I'm not sure how but I guess you would pull the drain plug out of the radiator, or pull the lower rad. hose off. Then once all the coolant has drained put a hose in the top of the rad. and run water through the whole system, then once all the water has drained fill it back up with a coolant and water mix. I would NOT do it with the engine running.
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Here's what I did: ran the car till it was good and warm, then shut it off let it cool a bit so I didn't burn myself too badly with the coolant. Then I drained the coolant out of the radiator via the stopcock at the bottom. Once it was down to a drip, I put the stopcock back in and took the lower rad hose off the block via the two bolts to remove the tstat. The coolant in the block takes forever to drain out the little hole in the jiggle pin unless you just pop out the tstat. Once the block has drained, reinstall the tstat or install a new one, and fill the rad with distilled water.

I used distilled because normal hose water leaves mineral deposits behind and is supposedly bad for the engine. Once I filled it up, I ran it up to operating temp and let everything circulate. I left the heat on for a while, and ran it with the heat off for a while too. Shut it off, then I did the same procedure as before (including removing the tstat to help facilitate draining) and then put in a few quarts of prestone, then a few quarts of distilled H20. Watch the reservoir bottle for a few days...you'll probably have to add some more coolant/h20 over the next few days. It's not hard, but use gloves...I used craftsman auto mech gloves with latex gloves over top to insulate my hands and keep the glove from getting soaked with coolant.

Also, you'll have to hose off the pavement after...it's really hard to get all the coolant into a bucket!
 
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I have a set of near mint MZ3 wheels on my car with new tires that I'm wanting to trade for a set of good FD wheels (mainly the reinforced ones) with tires plus cash on your part. Any takers?
 
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