What have you done to your MSP today?

its much more rewarding if you do it yourself. Im not to big on cars that are done by shops...just means you have alot of money. Either route you choose, should still be a sick build

Plus not all shops know wtf they're doing. Last steedspeed manifold I bought, I took it to a local tuner shop and they wound up getting one of my ARP studs lodged in it because they didn't clear the threads... so they charged me $250 to install my ATP wastegate and nothing else.

yeah, I really do understand what you guys are saying and at first I was going to do it myself but the only reason Im going to let this shop do it is because of the situation I was in prior to me deploying plus I didn't just pick any random shop because they call themselves a "performance shop". They are pretty good on Mazdaspeeds and have had quite a few MS3s and MSPs come through for motor work and they have worked on my car a few times before I joined the forum a few years back. They knew more about the car than I did back then..lol They helped me out big time. I live on a military installation and I guess my car didn't meet all the criteria to be kept on base while Im gone and military housing threatened to tow my car if I didn't meet these standards. Well, I'm in Iraq, there was nothing I could do since I'm way over here. So, I called this shop owner who I have been really good friends with for around 5 years and asked if I could keep my car at his shop until I get back. He said yes without hesitating. So, I kind of owe him big time for letting me use up some of his shop space just to keep my car for me. With that being said, I figured well, since my car is already there I might as well make use of that space and have him build the motor for me while I'm out here that way when I get back, I can jump in and start the break in process as soon as I get back. And since the build will take the longest and have the most downtime, this is perfect since the car is stored and not driven. and the last thing is Im about to get out of the military about three months after I get back from Iraq so those three months are going to be filled with job fairs and setting things up on the outside of the military and making sure my wife and son are good to go and I don't want to be in the middle of a motor build while trying to transition out of the military. So, my plan is to have them build the motor while I'm out here and once Im set up and settled outside of the military, then I'll start on headwork and finishing up with the rest of the bolt ons and standalone EMS since most of that can be accomplished over a weekend.


edit: DAMN!! SORRY FOR THE LONG POST GUYS...I GOT CARRIED AWAY lol
 
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^makes sense to me

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here's the clip and wires I was referring to
 
if that is the one that I am thinking of, the other half should be attached to the injector wires and that whole bunch, it's slim and an obvious match for that clip
 
I think i found were the wires go, just not sure what it is. It looks like a sensor the was on the back of the block. Right in the middle. 23mm bolt with an electrical clamp and black goo on the outside and a smaller, threaded peice that was in the block with a hole in the center with what looks like oil. My guess in the oil temp senso but can find a pic of one online yet
 
Ohhh, I see what your talking about, you didn't want to know what it plugged into, (well kinda) but not the way I meant it, you wanted to know where the wire went since (now that I notice it) it is cut.. nvm then, been too long since I looked back there
 
Found a huge vac leak and fixed that, installing the spool springs, Wiring all the gauges to hopefully work, and no longer have a CEL. Now for tomorrow is hopefully make dump tube for EWG, change fluids and plugs, and get new tires put on. SHE BETTER BE RUNNING BY FRIDAY!!!
 
question...

when my arp manifold studs show up, can i remove the factory ones and move the whole assembly out of the way enough to try and fish out any broken ones without disconnecting the coolant/oil lines? and if i have to, will i fux0r the gaskets on the oil/coolant lines?
 
Sam said it was a knock sensor

Valk, I guess it would depend if you have some sort flex pipe you could, but there's not alot of flex in the system
 
question...

when my arp manifold studs show up, can i remove the factory ones and move the whole assembly out of the way enough to try and fish out any broken ones without disconnecting the coolant/oil lines? and if i have to, will i fux0r the gaskets on the oil/coolant lines?
yes you will have to obviously remove all bolts/nuts out of the head... remove the botl in the s-pipe, both rad fans, stick a peice of cardbaord next to the rad to prevent damage... i did this and was able to do 4 helicoils iwth a 90 degree drill
 
Need help finding a post......I remember seeing a post not to long ago on the wastegate flap being pushed out too far and how to fix it. I tried to find it, but not sure where it went. If anyone could send me the post or give me the info that would be great! I replaced my wastegate and some times the car runs like a champ and other days it feel chocked. I remembered the post about the wastegate working its way out over the years and it needs to be pressed back in, so I looked at mine last night and sure enough ti looks like it worked its way out. Any help would be great!!! thanks guys
 
Need help finding a post......I remember seeing a post not to long ago on the wastegate flap being pushed out too far and how to fix it. I tried to find it, but not sure where it went. If anyone could send me the post or give me the info that would be great! I replaced my wastegate and some times the car runs like a champ and other days it feel chocked. I remembered the post about the wastegate working its way out over the years and it needs to be pressed back in, so I looked at mine last night and sure enough ti looks like it worked its way out. Any help would be great!!! thanks guys

look at my posts...

Edit: here you go...
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...oosting-properly-(tested-EVERYTHING-can-t-fix
 
Last night I installed the valve cover with new gasket and both accessory belts. Everything is tightened up with the exception of the alternator pivot bolt (there was a puddle under my car, didn't feel like getting wet). Started her up and everything is tracking well. Now just waiting for the correct thermostat to get here before I put in new coolant and get it back on the road.
 
So fluid lines are flexible to give me some wiggle then? I
Might find someone to weld my stock
Manifold crack so if i have to remove the fluid lines to do this hiw much and where can i get the seals/ gaskets for them?
My oil return is leaking so might deal with that. Just dont wanna completely pull the turbo system appart onky to break more studs ect. Though if i were to get the turbo install kit what else would i need?
 
Speaking of turbo coolant / oil lines... I am thinking about replacing them when I swap out the turbo very soon. Anybody have experience with an aftermarket brand to share? I checked the dealership and OEM lines are discontinued.
 
How do you get the stock endlinks disconnected from the stock struts? I've got it turning after some pb and a rubber mallet/wrench, but the nut doesn't seen to be coming off at all.. Any suggestions?
 

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