Spiced MSP
Member
- :
- 2016 Peterbilt 579
back to stock grill
wait, so you waited all this time for the DG grill and now your going back to the stock grill?
back to stock grill
only possible rubbing issue would be on the inner front of the front tires when at full lock. I currently have that and other than a little melting of the splash guards and rubbing off my undercoating, its not an issue. If I end up going with another 245 front tire, I'll probably try to up the spacer a tad, but I'm not going to worry about it until this set (and my next set of tires, which are 225s) are burned up, and with any likelyhood I'll be selling the car about then.
Being 205 tires this may also be a non-issue, but I think IF you have one, that'll be the most severe one i predict.
crap, that is what i was afraid of.... hmm, might get them eventually, but I'm saving up for a cross country road trip and insurance (then the gt28rs after that, along with forged internals, but that will have to wait till I get a real job, THEN I will be all over these lol, if I hold out that long)
damn, that really sucks, maybe I will just get amber leds so that it doesn't look amber in the housing while the lights are off from the amber bulb, might have to deal with it since I don't really feel like paying for $80 bulbs atm, I will just have to suck it up, damn laws, thanks for the infoturn signals must be white or amber. if the signal housings are white they must be amber, vise-versa.
Did you do anything to the exhaust side of the engine? Believe it or not, i had an exhaust leak on my CS s to j pipe and got the same code. It will also lean the car out (verified by my wideband, with leak i was hitting 17 afr idle), and messes with idle and vac. I assume its cause the cars trying to compensate for some reason. By exhaust side i mean anything past the head.
I have no idea how it knows there's a leak post engine but it somehow does (not sure how far down matters though cause my resonator cracked and it didnt throw the code, maybe before 2nd 02?)
Im honestly not making this up.
does our heat shield that sits under the shifter come out easily without taking out the mid pipe? i imagine you have to bend the tabs on one side and turn it out. the distance between the TWM short shifter i just installed and that heat shield is about 10mm at most and this is with the spacers installed that came with the kit. while in 5th on the highway, i hear random raddling but only when i go over 70mph. bout to cut the part out where the shifter sits above it
get your car over here next weekend and i will solve all your issues
I didn't touch my heatshield when I installed my B&M. The bolts were stripped and just spun free, so I just left it there. I don't get any rattles or anything.
the B&M doesnt go as low as the TWM does though..