What have you done to your MSP today?

only possible rubbing issue would be on the inner front of the front tires when at full lock. I currently have that and other than a little melting of the splash guards and rubbing off my undercoating, its not an issue. If I end up going with another 245 front tire, I'll probably try to up the spacer a tad, but I'm not going to worry about it until this set (and my next set of tires, which are 225s) are burned up, and with any likelyhood I'll be selling the car about then.

Being 205 tires this may also be a non-issue, but I think IF you have one, that'll be the most severe one i predict.

thanks for the heads up. Im gonna take the chance cause they are really good tires coming with the wheels and i dont drive that much anyway.
 
crap, that is what i was afraid of.... hmm, might get them eventually, but I'm saving up for a cross country road trip and insurance (then the gt28rs after that, along with forged internals, but that will have to wait till I get a real job, THEN I will be all over these lol, if I hold out that long)
turn signals must be white or amber. if the signal housings are white they must be amber, vise-versa.
damn, that really sucks, maybe I will just get amber leds so that it doesn't look amber in the housing while the lights are off from the amber bulb, might have to deal with it since I don't really feel like paying for $80 bulbs atm, I will just have to suck it up, damn laws, thanks for the info
Did you do anything to the exhaust side of the engine? Believe it or not, i had an exhaust leak on my CS s to j pipe and got the same code. It will also lean the car out (verified by my wideband, with leak i was hitting 17 afr idle), and messes with idle and vac. I assume its cause the cars trying to compensate for some reason. By exhaust side i mean anything past the head.

I have no idea how it knows there's a leak post engine but it somehow does (not sure how far down matters though cause my resonator cracked and it didnt throw the code, maybe before 2nd 02?)

Im honestly not making this up.

I 2nd that, I had the same issue last year too, was a HUGE PITA trying to figure it out, until I randomly realized that I had an exhaust mani leak, although yours was lower down, but still same idea, and for some reason my idle was a little funky too, the car is just weird
 
well after trying to put in my white LED turn signal lights, and finding that they didn't fit, barely..and finding out that anything but amber turns are illegal, I broke down and bought the switchover ones like Focus listed from ebay, not as many LEDs, they were 48 LEDs (my headlights are bright enough, no need for the turns to be crazy too) for about $40, and got the resistors so they don't flash crazy fast.. can't wait for them to come, so I can be done with trying out diff. bulbs lol
 
got a nice big dent on my driver's side rear door late friday/early saturday morning. My brother's bride to be (god i hope not) decided to throw a tantrum and beat on my car because we wouldn't let her drunk ass drive home. now the body shop will have touched every side of my car but the roof, if she can pay for it. If she can't then i have to go through my insurance and i'm out my deductable. By the time someone's 35 you would think they would know how to handle their own drinking.

end rant.
 
does our heat shield that sits under the shifter come out easily without taking out the mid pipe? i imagine you have to bend the tabs on one side and turn it out. the distance between the TWM short shifter i just installed and that heat shield is about 10mm at most and this is with the spacers installed that came with the kit. while in 5th on the highway, i hear random raddling but only when i go over 70mph. bout to cut the part out where the shifter sits above it
 
i had a similar issue when i put my twm in. i just pulled the heatshield down a little and havnt had any issues. i mean my 3inch piping of my exhaust comes close but doesnt rub. so you shouldnt have to worry about it rubbing the exhaust
 
ahh okay. i was thinkin of cutting it because it would get too close to the exhaust pipe and cause another prob. i'll give this a go. thanks
 
does our heat shield that sits under the shifter come out easily without taking out the mid pipe? i imagine you have to bend the tabs on one side and turn it out. the distance between the TWM short shifter i just installed and that heat shield is about 10mm at most and this is with the spacers installed that came with the kit. while in 5th on the highway, i hear random raddling but only when i go over 70mph. bout to cut the part out where the shifter sits above it

unbolt that b!tch and rip it out, thats what i did. mine went from a rattle now and then to the sheild was sitting on the exhaust rattling all the time
 
I didn't touch my heatshield when I installed my B&M. The bolts were stripped and just spun free, so I just left it there. I don't get any rattles or anything.
 
Just bend the tabs so the shield sits lower. If it still rattles, insert washers as spacers to lower the shield.
 
the twm kit came with its own spacer and the lower the shield gets, the closer it gets to the midpipe. i think i got it figured out tho. just gotta wait for a cooler day to work on this s***. dam 103 degrees outside
 

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