What have you done to your MSP today?

Okay, UPDATE-

Damian (boostdprotegelx) and I changed the fuel pump (upgrade to Walbro 255lph), replaced the rear motor mount (AWR 70 duro), and replaced the vacuum check valve between banks 1 & 2 yesterday. After the install of the Walbro 255lph, my top end has improved drastically.

This didn't really solve the problem, (P0170 - bank 1 too lean), but it DID help me identify what I believe to be the main culprit - a faulty fuel pressure regulator.

It makes sense because a failure of the fuel pressure regulator would cause cylinder 1 to be lean because it's the furthest cylinder down the fuel rail and would suffer the most if the fpr can't keep up the fuel pressure.

My idle has been terrible because if the fpr has failed, then the fuel pressure wouldn't be steady and the car wouldn't be able to maintain a smooth idle. The car would try to compensate by putting cylinders 1 injector on a higher duty cycle (or something equally oddball). This has been causing the inevitable "dip" in rpm at idle which causes the car to nearly die out almost every time I get off the throttle. Also, the reason my top end has improved dramatically is because past a certain range the Walbro 255lph pump is pushing enough fuel at high rpms to compensate for the fpr not doing its job.

I have always had -18 to -20 mm/Hg in vacuum at idle, and that hasn't changed so I'm reasonably sure it's not a vacuum leak. I ordered a new fpr today. Wish me luck! I really think this must be the problem.

Maybe this would be a good excuse to justify a new fuel rail (Perrin?), LOL!

extremely happy you updated us on that. my idle is bad as well but my vacuum is good. let me know how the fpr goes. if it fixes it, ill do the same. that code popped up again for me.
 
FMIC FTW. link in my sig for cheaper, and more effective alternative.

ya, I had the CustomMSP smic and the WR hardpipes, overall I wish I would have gone with the FMIC kit as Wagon stated above first, but then again, I didn't really know much about the car since my first installs were the smic/hardpipes/cai, but I just finished installing the fmic kit and it is so much better/cleaner/nicer.. for the most part, it does take some work, I took about 2 weeks to get mine in but that is really only because I had to wait for some welding for the BOV flange and a bracket, and then I had to order couplers, twice, but go to the link in wagon's sig, and actually I forgot to post there what my end results for pipes and couplers were so ya... I would do that

I was under the impression the fmic was only worth it if im looking to up the power of the msp, being as it is my dd im only looking to have it run better which is why I thought of uprgrading the smic so i wouldnt have as much heatsoak as i do with the stock, I thought that plus slimline fans would be enough to fix this problem and fulfill my needs of the car as a dd. If I am wrong please let me know, I would like more power but dont really need it so i am fine with the smic not giving as much of a power gain as the fmic
 
I was under the impression the fmic was only worth it if im looking to up the power of the msp, being as it is my dd im only looking to have it run better which is why I thought of uprgrading the smic so i wouldnt have as much heatsoak as i do with the stock, I thought that plus slimline fans would be enough to fix this problem and fulfill my needs of the car as a dd. If I am wrong please let me know, I would like more power but dont really need it so i am fine with the smic not giving as much of a power gain as the fmic

For the negligible cost difference, I feel like buying an SMIC is a waste of $$, since you can get a fmic for a similar cost. .02

^I think this is where Wagon was going with his post, also...
 
I was under the impression the fmic was only worth it if im looking to up the power of the msp, being as it is my dd im only looking to have it run better which is why I thought of uprgrading the smic so i wouldnt have as much heatsoak as i do with the stock, I thought that plus slimline fans would be enough to fix this problem and fulfill my needs of the car as a dd. If I am wrong please let me know, I would like more power but dont really need it so i am fine with the smic not giving as much of a power gain as the fmic
now that my tuner is gone... FMIC and catless midpipe are my only 2 power upgrades. Maybe the SMIC is enough (can't say from exp).. but the FMIC won't HURT in any way. I feel its worth it, seeing as my FMIC was cheaper than any possible SMIC/hardpipe combo.
 
he already has hardpipes i believe. a used custoMSP or turbohoses smic should run around 300. just bolt it in and enjoy
 
extremely happy you updated us on that. my idle is bad as well but my vacuum is good. let me know how the fpr goes. if it fixes it, ill do the same. that code popped up again for me.

Sure thing (thumb) I ordered it today, hopefully I'll get the fpr sometime this week.
 
mgerst1- I saw that you already have the hot pipe, but IMO, and coming from spending 2 years about with the CustomMSP and WeaponR hardpipes, even if you got a used SMIC and the cold pipe, the FMIC would cost less, and to be honest, the heatsoak issue is solved by both the fmic and upgraded smic, I had no issues with the smic when I had it on, and i loved it, and after switching to the fmic, there is little difference in anything, besides a little better top end but not by much, and honestly I almost think that the smic with the little "ram air smic" scoop thing that I made almost cooled it down slightly better, but I can't really say for sure just because it's been so damn hot here, but in all reality it is unlikely..

so my point being is that if you look at Wagon's sig, you will see my last post, in total you will spend a good deal less, (or at least should, unless you make a bunch of mistakes while fitting it like I did, but that is why I posted my mistakes, so you should be fine) with the custom fmic kit.....
-With that said, after running the 50/50 bov/bpv set up for about a year and a half, running the bov only and relocated MAF is soooo much better, the relocated MAF makes the car run much much better, and more consistent when trying to tune, and during temp. changes, so if you don't mind a little work, and +the fmic looks great IMO, after 2 years and after seeing my brother's fmic on his msp every day for the last year, it got to me and I broke down, you won't, or shouldn't regret getting a fmic kit at all,

over all -much more cost friendly and looks great, and does a great job.. and so much better driving it with the relocated MAF, also if you just want to have something to stick in and forget it, you can go with the smic, but it may not solve all of your driving issues (the MAF not being relocated sometimes feels like heatsoak sometimes, but it is hard/impossible to tell w/o a wideband, and upgraded IC), so with my experience with both, this is my opinion


so I hope that gets all your doubts/questions fulfilled mostly (edit: I also just saw that you had the sri, so you can run it like they did through the cai area, so the correct CX racing kit like in the sig/thread will be much much cheaper than any smic/hardpipe kit, even with the hot pipe you have now)
 
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and for me today, I gave my brother my battery that was in my car, and bought an optima red top, looks great, switched them out and started them up, all good now, also just fixed his exhaust leak from the S pipe with some new bolts in there, so that is all set now

only thing is that I found another fuel leak, I thought the injector O rings on my brother's car were the only ones, but found one near the connection between the stock/hard small fuel lines, going to the SS braided lines going to the aftermarket/custom fuel rail/fpr ect...I am reallly reallllyy hoping it is just a loose worm clap...

does anyone know what people usually use to secure aftermarket SS braided lines to the stock hard fuel lines near the fire wall, or do they just use worm clamps?
 
mgerst1- I saw that you already have the hot pipe, but IMO, and coming from spending 2 years about with the CustomMSP and WeaponR hardpipes, even if you got a used SMIC and the cold pipe, the FMIC would cost less, and to be honest, the heatsoak issue is solved by both the fmic and upgraded smic, I had no issues with the smic when I had it on, and i loved it, and after switching to the fmic, there is little difference in anything, besides a little better top end but not by much, and honestly I almost think that the smic with the little "ram air smic" scoop thing that I made almost cooled it down slightly better, but I can't really say for sure just because it's been so damn hot here, but in all reality it is unlikely..

so my point being is that if you look at Wagon's sig, you will see my last post, in total you will spend a good deal less, (or at least should, unless you make a bunch of mistakes while fitting it like I did, but that is why I posted my mistakes, so you should be fine) with the custom fmic kit.....
-With that said, after running the 50/50 bov/bpv set up for about a year and a half, running the bov only and relocated MAF is soooo much better, the relocated MAF makes the car run much much better, and more consistent when trying to tune, and during temp. changes, so if you don't mind a little work, and +the fmic looks great IMO, after 2 years and after seeing my brother's fmic on his msp every day for the last year, it got to me and I broke down, you won't, or shouldn't regret getting a fmic kit at all,

over all -much more cost friendly and looks great, and does a great job.. and so much better driving it with the relocated MAF, also if you just want to have something to stick in and forget it, you can go with the smic, but it may not solve all of your driving issues (the MAF not being relocated sometimes feels like heatsoak sometimes, but it is hard/impossible to tell w/o a wideband, and upgraded IC), so with my experience with both, this is my opinion


so I hope that gets all your doubts/questions fulfilled mostly (edit: I also just saw that you had the sri, so you can run it like they did through the cai area, so the correct CX racing kit like in the sig/thread will be much much cheaper than any smic/hardpipe kit, even with the hot pipe you have now)

thanks, ill give it some thought, i do have the coldpipe ive just been too lazy to install it, i have had it for about a year
 
oh ya in that case it would be about the same as far as price goes for the whole fmic kit set up and buying, even a used customMSP or turbohoses smic, but ya it's up to you, I'd personally prefer the fmic, which is why I switched after 2 years
 
The SMIC is good for those who dont want to get that invasive on an install. An FMIC will almost always provide better gains so its worth the monies. (ive dealt with a few knockoff cores that didnt do shiznit). The SMIC just really isnt in a good spot to cool itself off, but upgraded its still better than stock.
 
quick question, i have a broke engine mount. mount A. anyone know if thats front or back or left or right? i just need to order tonight. [not thread jack] lol
 
The SMIC is good for those who dont want to get that invasive on an install. An FMIC will almost always provide better gains so its worth the monies. (ive dealt with a few knockoff cores that didnt do shiznit). The SMIC just really isnt in a good spot to cool itself off, but upgraded its still better than stock.

the workup i did was to keep the FMIC as minimally invasive as possible...
 
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