What have you done to your MSP today?

Don't do all that. It never takes long to cool down. Unless 80 on interstate, exit and pull up to gas station. Then it may be a minute at the most. hit the lock button and by the time your 20-30 feet from your car, it shuts off and you press the alarm button. Heads turn, like, wtf was that?
 
I still don't get why you want a switch. its got its own power button.
lol ya well after I was playing around with my brother's Evotion TT and realized that when you turn it off, it doesn't turn back on when you turn the car on, and after people telling me the obvious on the TT thread the same thing, I didn't do it, I just installed it to the IGN wires, and after I realized I had kept skipping the page on the Greddy TT install that says which wires are for what for installation, it was no problem, and actually the reason I think people are having some problems is because when a car has 2 "On" wires like our blue ones, one will drop in voltage after the car is turned on, and the green wire is suppose to go to the one that doesn't drop, and the blue wire(from TT) is suppose to go to the other one and not the ACC wire... but it all kind of clicked(thought) and was cake after that lol

Don't do all that. It never takes long to cool down. Unless 80 on interstate, exit and pull up to gas station. Then it may be a minute at the most. hit the lock button and by the time your 20-30 feet from your car, it shuts off and you press the alarm button. Heads turn, like, wtf was that?
ya I was thinking about not doing it, I have my low setting to 10sec, and my high to 30sec, so I'm pretty sure I won't do it, at least not any time soon, I'm not really eager to start cutting the alarm wires
 
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Which brand do you have? I have the newest slim HKS one. It has the adjustable 2 setting countdown, along with a self calculating countdown. Only time it has to stay on is the highway deal i mentioned. But i switch it if i pull up to a crowded lot or something, so it's running and shuts off as i'm a few steps away :)
 
i hate to admit this but i was so bored last night and really wanted to go to a car meet that i went to a car meet put on by a local lowered car and truck club. (not lowered like we do im talking dub lowered x1000000000) I arrived to see an s-10 sitting on the ground with a suicide door on the driver side, a dude in a stock explorer cause he blew his motor, another guy in a stock stratus, and later a guy in a slammed civic showed up. they were not that bad and it gave me something to do. I just felt a need to admit this to my fellow mazda bretheren so i can have reconciliation
 
(2) Dunlop Direzza Star Spec 225/50/16

(2) Bridgestone RE-01 225/50/16

(2) Hankook Ventus RS-2 225/45/16

(2) Hankook Ventus RS-2 245/45/16

The dunlops and the 245s are basically cooked, but I figured what the hell.. they're good for at lead a few thousand miles or a couple track days. Absurdly good price. He's buying 1/3 of an R-compound with what I gave him for all these.

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And a snap of how the car sits with them loaded:

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it's good to know the msp can double as a tire carrier
 
Yesterday I started my installs. I'm doing my struts(front and rear), endlinks(F&R), lower tie bar bushings (hopefully the front seems like it's going to be a beeyatch and rear), replacing rotors with EBC dimpled & slotted(F&R), Hawk hps pads, and SS goodridge brake lines. I managed to snap the welded nut on the rear lower tie bar bushing bracket so have to figure that one out lol. But other than that it's going good. Takingmy time and really love this site for all it's information to help someone who has never really done brakes feel confident enough to tackle it.
 
Yesterday I started my installs. I'm doing my struts(front and rear), endlinks(F&R), lower tie bar bushings (hopefully the front seems like it's going to be a beeyatch and rear), replacing rotors with EBC dimpled & slotted(F&R), Hawk hps pads, and SS goodridge brake lines. I managed to snap the welded nut on the rear lower tie bar bushing bracket so have to figure that one out lol. But other than that it's going good. Takingmy time and really love this site for all it's information to help someone who has never really done brakes feel confident enough to tackle it.

when you say lower tie bar is that the same as sway bar?

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=87780 I used that how to for the front bushings. for the rear b broke one of the welded bolts, just got a new bolt and nut and the hardware store. stuck my arm in the hole in the cross-member dropped int the bolt and tightined it up with one ratchet in the cross-member and one outside on the bolt
 
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Yesterday I started my installs. I'm doing my struts(front and rear), endlinks(F&R), lower tie bar bushings (hopefully the front seems like it's going to be a beeyatch and rear), replacing rotors with EBC dimpled & slotted(F&R), Hawk hps pads, and SS goodridge brake lines. I managed to snap the welded nut on the rear lower tie bar bushing bracket so have to figure that one out lol. But other than that it's going good. Takingmy time and really love this site for all it's information to help someone who has never really done brakes feel confident enough to tackle it.
ya it's great, after refusing to touch my breaks at all originally and then reading some info. on here I was able to change my front right caliper/brake pads in about 5-10min at the most lol (the car was jacked up and wheels were off already, it was when I was painting my calipers) but really it was crazy easy, I know that for at least that part you shouldn't have any problem at all, just make sure you take things off that you need to on this car instead of trying to take short cuts (general rule that seems to make things easier in the end for this car) but after just bleed them really good and you'll be all set no problem.
Which brand do you have? I have the newest slim HKS one. It has the adjustable 2 setting countdown, along with a self calculating countdown. Only time it has to stay on is the highway deal i mentioned. But i switch it if i pull up to a crowded lot or something, so it's running and shuts off as i'm a few steps away :)
I have the Greddy TT, it came uninstalled with the car along with the Greddy ebc, I had installed the ebc a while back but the TT I just didn't really want to have it in the car and screw it up since I need it for driving (I have a winter/backup car,old Dodge stratus, but lets be honest I really don't want to have to drive it if I don't have to lol)
but the Greddy TT has a crap load of settings and options too, it's pretty cool but for now I have it set to show the volt meter when turned on, and with a 10sec countdown time, but that is when I turn it on, and I don't really plan on having it on very much, it's just nice to finally get in, and use it if I want to.
I'd say 10 tires total is possible, if you're willing to go trunk and pass seat. Maybe 11.
you sir.... need to vac/clean your car now lol (I hate my car getting dirt in it, I tell my friends to bang off their shoes if they have a bunch of dirty on it and stuff.. and speaking of which I want to vacuum my car today and give it a little turtle-wax ice spray real quick, its a little dusty and could use a quick clean
 
you sir.... need to vac/clean your car now lol (I hate my car getting dirt in it, I tell my friends to bang off their shoes if they have a bunch of dirty on it and stuff.. and speaking of which I want to vacuum my car today and give it a little turtle-wax ice spray real quick, its a little dusty and could use a quick clean
It was fully detailed a couple weeks ago.

Though I did find it funny I had to move detailing supplies to make room for tires... LOL
 
Can someone describe heatsoak for me I think I got it today really bad. Car drove fine at first and fine on the highway then all of a sudden after driving at 70 mph for about an hour I had to drop to 45 with frequent starts and stops this is when I noticed the msp being sluggish but I cout still hit boost but it just seemed very sluggish. Is this heatsoak?
 
having to drop to 45 mph on the freeway? thats not normal. and its not like the car would be building boost to GIVE heatsoak at 70 either.

I read the post differently. I think he was saying that after driving at freeway speeds for an hour he left the freeway and was driving in an area that allowed him to go 45, but with starts and stops, like signs or signals, and it was then that he noticed the sluggish performance.
 
I read the post differently. I think he was saying that after driving at freeway speeds for an hour he left the freeway and was driving in an area that allowed him to go 45, but with starts and stops, like signs or signals, and it was then that he noticed the sluggish performance.
ah... OK. heres hoping. in that case yeah, possible, but it shouldn't really heatsoak just crusing.
 
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