What have you done to your MSP today?
- Thread starter baconbitz
- Start date
YEAH FOR PARTS!
Now to get them installed!
whered u get ur LSD?
what do you mean hot enough?
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- MSP 1145
i'll be picking it up. and if i can find someone to sign a damn loan, i'd be on my way now to pick it up. everyone trusts me to pay, no one has credit for it...
if i have to pay the other way(payments to him) i won't have it by then..
Wagonbacker9
Member
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- 2004 'Hoe
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- MSP 1145
kind of... my father just changed jobs, although it pays more, it's new so he couldn't get one. my moms credits extended. as is mine.wheres i can afford the payment, the bank doesn't believe it.. i've even been offering WHOEVER 500.00 cash to get me the loan.
Outlawstar98
Member
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- 2003 MazdaSpeed Protege / 2013 BRZ
I would gladly take 500 cash to do it but i would also gladly do it for free. However i unfortunately dont have enough of a credit history to be a co-signer of any worth (or make enough money) sorry dude, good luck. have you thought of grandparents? everyone trusts old people, lol
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- MSP 1145
hah. i have thought about that. but my grandmother is on her own, and i'm just not sure that i could get her to do it...unsure.. oh well.
i hope to find someone. cuz i don't wanna pay payments direct. i want the car. and THEN make payments
there is much more to breaking in an engine than mileage
1. idle the engine for a good two hours using DINO oil, do NOT run synthetic at first
2. change the oil, again with dino
3. fire up the car and take it out on the road, performing pulls basically like the following:
(x5-6 times)
--0-30, staying under 4k rpms
--30-0 using brakes with clutch disengaged
(mix in a harder pull like this on occasion)
--0-50, staying under 5k rpms
--50-0 with clutch disengaged
(x2-3 times)
--0-60, staying under 4k rpms
--60-0 with clutch engaged
4. change the oil, again with dino
5. cruise around at around 30-40 without going over 4k rpms for around 200 miles....do not brake with clutch engaged
6. change your oil, again with dino
7. go for another 300 miles, staying under 4k rpms around 30-40 and braking without clutch engaged....however, mix in the occassional pull to 60 up to around 5k rpms
8. change the oil, using dino...you should be at around 500 miles on the car now
9. run the car to 1500 miles like that, stay under 4k for most of the time and mix in occassional hard pulls to 60 up to 5-6k rpms...it's key to mix in some hard pulls, just not super often, if you baby the engine too much you won't seat your piston rings properly
10. change your oil, you can run synthetic now....don't push it too hard until you get to 3k rpms, but you can push it a little more
you don't gotta stick to that regiment perfectly, it's just a guideline to follow....everyone will have a different oppinion on this matter too
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Ricktalife
Member
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- 2012 Subaru WRX
that's a lot of s*** to do for a new engine :O
as I said, everybody has a different break in process...but his does not seem much different than mine
though I do want to note that idling the engine for a good hour rather than 15 minutes also aids in cleaning out the engine once installed...while 15 minutes can be sufficient if the engine has been built in a clean environment and has been stored as such as well, it can't hurt
being excessive during the break in is NOT a bad point...personally if I'm spending 3-4k on an engine break in, I'd do as much as possible to secure that investment *shrugs*
what I put up is the same break in process I was told by many different people I trust
sounds basically like what I had said for oil changes, though I did add in the change after 200 miles simply because the whole point of that second change is to get any additional particles of dirt out of the engine and personally I feel that 200 is a better point, again each person varies
though I do want to note that idling the engine for a good hour rather than 15 minutes also aids in cleaning out the engine once installed...while 15 minutes can be sufficient if the engine has been built in a clean environment and has been stored as such as well, it can't hurt
being excessive during the break in is NOT a bad point...personally if I'm spending 3-4k on an engine break in, I'd do as much as possible to secure that investment *shrugs*
what I put up is the same break in process I was told by many different people I trust
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- 03.5 YLW MSP
ouch! So they ARE going to fix it even with a frame?
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Wagonbacker9
Member
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- 2004 'Hoe
I'm surprised they're fixing it... YAY! another MSP LIVES ON!
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- MSP 1145
horray. great news and also bad news.. but glad youre msp isn't totaled!
I took some new pics , i'll post them tomorrow because i'm lazy.
My coolant hose that connects to the "by-pass pipe #1"<-according to onlinemazda, has a small hole but it leaks like a mofo. I think the new hose cost like $3 bucks, but its a pain in the ass to reach since it starts behind the engine.
The problems with this car never end, but I love her regardless.
My coolant hose that connects to the "by-pass pipe #1"<-according to onlinemazda, has a small hole but it leaks like a mofo. I think the new hose cost like $3 bucks, but its a pain in the ass to reach since it starts behind the engine.
The problems with this car never end, but I love her regardless.
Can't wait to see the new pics!
