What have you done to your MSP today?

Not only that, its very hard to incorporate 5 years of sun damage and fading in a paint. The car is not the same exact shade as it was new.
 
Today I realized how badly I need to get my Unichip installed & dyno tuned.

The (already poopy) stock tune is having a fit trying to work with my mods now. The car is NOT happy.

<Sigh> I guess I better schedule a session in the next month or so.

HEY, is it better to dyno tune my Unichip in the winter or in the summer?
 
changed my oil and tranny fluid. replaced with all Mobil1 products, 10w30 for the engine and 75w90 for the trans.
 
Today I realized how badly I need to get my Unichip installed & dyno tuned.

The (already poopy) stock tune is having a fit trying to work with my mods now. The car is NOT happy.

<Sigh> I guess I better schedule a session in the next month or so.

HEY, is it better to dyno tune my Unichip in the winter or in the summer?

Summer, with the colder air of the winter its going to run richer cause the colder air is denser. so its best to tune it when its hot out and the car runs hotter.that will be its most extreme weather situatiuon. If u tune it for the cold air when it gets hot out it might detonate from the hotter air.
 
Today I realized how badly I need to get my Unichip installed & dyno tuned.

The (already poopy) stock tune is having a fit trying to work with my mods now. The car is NOT happy.

<Sigh> I guess I better schedule a session in the next month or so.

HEY, is it better to dyno tune my Unichip in the winter or in the summer?

Whichever season lasts longer, which for you, being in VA, would definitely be summer.
 
Summer, with the colder air of the winter its going to run richer cause the colder air is denser. so its best to tune it when its hot out and the car runs hotter.that will be its most extreme weather situatiuon. If u tune it for the cold air when it gets hot out it might detonate from the hotter air.

That reasoning makes more sense than mine :)
 
Summer, with the colder air of the winter its going to run richer cause the colder air is denser. so its best to tune it when its hot out and the car runs hotter.that will be its most extreme weather situatiuon. If u tune it for the cold air when it gets hot out it might detonate from the hotter air.


Precisely what I needed to know. Thanks, mate! (thumb)

Guess I'll schedule that dyno session sometime soon. I bought my Unichip used, so I guess I'll have to just hope and pray that it's working fine.
 
just got up to school but did a few things before coming:

-installed Turbolife intercooler kit with a greddy type s BOV
-installed nsn intake manifold thermal spacer
-repainted the 626 manifold
-replaced valve cover with nonmsp one (i like the lettering on there better)
-painted valve cover gloss black (i will eventually paint the letters red)
-installed an atp 11 psi wastegate actuator (i had to removed the turbo/manifold assembly which is always a fun thing to do, thanks MAM).
-replaced every fuel line with 3/8 inch high pressure line
-installed perrin fuel rail
-replaced fuel rail inlet barb with a 3/8 inch barb
-installed MBXmotorsports fuel rail adapter with a 3/8 inch barb
-installed the aeromotive A1000-6 rising rate fuel pressure regulator
-tapped the intercooler cold pipe for a haltech IAT sensor
-tapped the coolant housing for a haltech coolant temp sensor
-mounted 1 high performance curved blade spal fan and 1 medium profile straight blade spal fan to the radiator
-mounted the NSN transmission cooler to the radiator assembly
-changed the oil
-got new tires (Yokohoma S-drives; apparently they discontinued the es100's)


here are a couple of pics:

P1020109.jpg
P1020110.jpg


P1020116.jpg
P1020114.jpg


radiatorback.jpg
radiatorfront.jpg
 
^^^ The fuel rail is a tight fit with the 626 IM isn't it? I see you also did away with the braided steel line on the fuel rail as well. Might be something I'll do it mine turns out to be leaking from the crimp connection. Why the RRPFR though?

On another note I'm actually considering selling my MAM manifold and just waiting for terbow's...
 
What's the benefit of the RRPFR? I mean, I didn't think these cars had any problem keeping AFRs rich even with the stock FPR. I'd love to replace mine with something nice looking like that Aeromotive but I justy feel it'd be kind of unecessary and it'd make my car run even more rich.
 
What's the benefit of the RRPFR? I mean, I didn't think these cars had any problem keeping AFRs rich even with the stock FPR. I'd love to replace mine with something nice looking like that Aeromotive but I justy feel it'd be kind of unecessary and it'd make my car run even more rich.

for bolt-on msp, i dont think there is any point of a fpr upgrade.

however, i have so much invested in my msp, i think making sure i have full control of the fuel system is a must.

i upgraded the pump, lines, and rail, so why not have control of the regulator as well.





also, im pretty sure the stock fpr is rising rate as well (1:1).




nice fuel setup. i love aeromotive stuff.


thanks! one thing i dont like is that aeromotive (unlike many other companies) uses AN with oring fittings (not flare fittings) to screw directly into the regulator. it was hard finding the correct fittings and it did not help the wallet.
 
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also, im pretty sure the stock fpr is rising rate as well (1:1).
I think it would be if the PRC valve is bypassed but if it's still in place the PRC valve will vent excess boost pressure. Then again, I've never actually looked at my fuel pressure gauge while in boost (it's under the hood!) so I'm not positive. I was just curious as the Aeromotive certainly looks nice :)

EDIT: BTW, your injectors are backwards. Not that it probably matters but I'm fairly certain the FSM says the green injectors go over cylinders 1 and 2 :p
 
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I think it would be if the PRC valve is bypassed but if it's still in place the PRC valve will vent excess boost pressure. Then again, I've never actually looked at my fuel pressure gauge while in boost (it's under the hood!) so I'm not positive. I was just curious as the Aeromotive certainly looks nice :)

EDIT: BTW, your injectors are backwards. Not that it probably matters but I'm fairly certain the FSM says the green injectors go over cylinders 1 and 2 :p


i really dont feel like searching, but i was pretty sure under boost it does rise. maybe someone else can chime in that also has a fp gauge.

haha, i didnt remember which went were. however, it doesnt matter at all. im limping the car around and staying way out of boost. i am running off a N/A protege ecu since i removed the hiboost kit with my extra injectors.

has anyone figured out why the stock injectors are 2 different colors/part numbers. they flow the same amount (im assuming) so i dont see why it would matter where they sit.

just curious...
 
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