What have you done to your MSP today?

I'd only pay shipping on perfect wheels. But ahipping to seawings in blaine washington would ve cheap domestic. Depends a lot on price of wheels and condition.
They aren't perfect. One wheel has a scuffed spoke from when my car got sideswiped by a snowplow. Just for a fun side job I might repair any rash, repaint, and sell them locally or here on the forum.
 
Depends what you were looking to get. Hyper silver really isn't possible to recover without much monies. I'd buy rashed wheels to refinish but wouldn't pay top dollar. $500 usd would be extremely generous assuming damage.
The rsf5 I was gonna get woupd be $750ish bnib so kinda... rock and a hard place lol.
 
I don't know what good it would do me, he is running over 20psi and 440 injectors. I plan to keep the timing tables stock considering it can only pull timing.

Use the AFC map's. No difference. Just toss the superstock map on it.
 
Even though the AFC only reads to 16 psi and vacuum goes past -4? I assume I would have to manually input the values.
 
So now that I've got my gauges installed and assuming any boost/vac leaks are cleared, here's the behavior I'm seeing.
At idle I see -20 vacuum, 14.7 AFR.
Full throttle I see 10.5psi spike, settle to around 8.5psi. AFR will go to 9 while at full throttle.

Throttle goes closed and I'm coasting in neutral. Vacuum goes to -24. AFR goes from 14.7ish to 10ish, then drops to 19ish while coasting.
Why does it jump to the rich condition?

Every car and every gauge is different. Mine idles at -24 with a/c off. -22 with a/c on and coasting in neutral -26. Its also still running pig rich even with a slightly bigger turbo than stock. 10.2 a/f at 7-8 psi.
 
Yeah I know it's pig rich at WOT but that's not my question.

Why would I be going from 14.7 to 10.0 to 19.0 when I go from normal driving to coasting?

The only times I've seen my car do that is when I've had a vacuum leak. My gauge reads --- when coasting in gear with my foot off the gas pedal. In neutral coasting is from 14.7 to 15.5
 
Thanks for the input Gabi. I hate having to hunt down vacuum leaks. Guess it's time to buy a new vacuum pump since my other one crapped out doing brake bleeding.
 
Even though the AFC only reads to 16 psi and vacuum goes past -4? I assume I would have to manually input the values.

Change your settings in R4 from to boost pressure to vacuum/pressure. Boost pressure reads -4 to 26psi, vacuum/pressure reads -28hg to 16psi.
 
Last edited:
The only times I've seen my car do that is when I've had a vacuum leak. My gauge reads --- when coasting in gear with my foot off the gas pedal. In neutral coasting is from 14.7 to 15.5
I also need to correct my description of the driving conditions.
Coasting in neutral I'm seeing 14.7 to 15.5 just like you. When I first let off of the gas pedal in neutral I'm seeing it go to 10ish, then it settles back down to 14.7-15.5.
Only time it's showing 19 is when I'm in gear decelerating/coasting foot 100% off of the gas pedal.
 
Only time it's showing 19 is when I'm in gear decelerating/coasting foot 100% off of the gas pedal.
With engine braking it should absolutely shoot to lean. Though not while coasting. Coasting dictates that the throttle is closed and the vehicle is moving simply by momentum.
 
That Protege5 I looked into last week or the week before is down to $1400obo, but it's been broken into now with the CD player missing and rear drivers side door glass broken out. Not a big deal at all. Also, there is an 87 Rx7 that's dropped from 1100 to 800obo... I need one of these...
 
That Protege5 I looked into last week or the week before is down to $1400obo, but it's been broken into now with the CD player missing and rear drivers side door glass broken out. Not a big deal at all. Also, there is an 87 Rx7 that's dropped from 1100 to 800obo... I need one of these...

If you don't have a DD, P5. If you are looking for a project RX-7.
 
After having an MSP as a project, I can't imagine having an RX-7. Personally I love them but only an FD would be worth the trouble in my opinion, when the FD breaks down it's nicer to look at on the side of the road. Not to mention a solid investment, even a non-running roller to put away for a few years is probably a good idea.

Change your settings in R4 from to boost pressure to vacuum/pressure. Boost pressure reads -4 to 26psi, vacuum/pressure reads -28hg to 16psi.

Cool, I have yet to install it but I probably will in the next couple days. The setup in R4 seems a little more complicated than the AFC but hopefully I can figure it out. There is a lot more info on the afc than the ftc.
 
Was removing the turbo on 1574 to check the wastegate flap and the intake had a bunch of oil in it. It was fresh looking oil, and I didn't see much residue in the hot pipe. I was lucky though and was able to move the wastegate flapper from the outside and didn't have to pull the turbo. I guess it just became stuck, I bet it will stick again but here's to hoping it lasts for me. I'm just glad I didn't have to remove the turbo, and i'm glad its holding a steady 6-7psi now. I can tell the turbo has more lag than my other MSP, most of it is likely the boost controller and the rest is probably in the tune. Can't wait to get the FTC installed and turn the boost up, however now I'm thinking I need to shop around for a turbo.
 
Only time it's showing 19 is when I'm in gear decelerating/coasting foot 100% off of the gas pedal.
The only time my car did that was when my throttle body cable was not adjusted properly and the throttle was literally staying slightly open.
 
If you don't have a DD, P5. If you are looking for a project RX-7.

It could be either. I've got the 8 to daily. Though I'm not daily'ing it. I just miss having a third car. Whether it be a project or otherwise. I can't believe the P5 isn't sold yet. I haven't personally looked at it, but the guy was stuck on $1900 and wouldn't budge when I called him. Why drop it $500 (and add "obo" to it) for a rear window and radio? Seems strange to me. I could get the money together and get it. I'd like to score it for around $1,000.
 
Sounds like you want the p5

Yeah, I do! I miss mine. Sold it and bought the MSP. I drove that car everywhere. It took my friends and I on so many road trips. It was an awesome car for commuting and it handled well. Plus I miss the small amount of additional cargo area. I considered converting it to a MSP5, but realized it'd just be easier to buy one.
 
Yeah, I do! I miss mine. Sold it and bought the MSP. I drove that car everywhere. It took my friends and I on so many road trips. It was an awesome car for commuting and it handled well. Plus I miss the small amount of additional cargo area. I considered converting it to a MSP5, but realized it'd just be easier to buy one.

Don't forget its lighter, so MSP5 is never a bad idea :P
 
I've been using Bosch filters almost exclusively for 5 or 6 years now, but had two Purolator filters I've had forever and used them for the MSP and Rx8s last oil services. I'm going to be changing the oil and filter in the 8, Accord and (probably) the MSP this weekend and was curious on your personal preference of filter brand and, also, why you use that filter. The MSP is noticeably louder on cold start-up, but also spikes higher on cold-start than it has prior to my oil and filter change a couple of weeks ago when I repaired the oil pan. I will probably just go back with a Bosch 3300, but I was curious as to what all of you are running.
 
Back