What have you done to your MS6 today?

It looks like my Prosport boost gauge has given up on me. I think the problem is a bad sender because the needle seems to just wander randomly and flutter back and forth. It has probably been about 3 years since I installed it, and I had heard that Prosport was junk, so I guess you do get what you pay for and now I'll have to find something a little more reliable to replace it with. Suggestions?
 
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Well, I was wondering what that vibration and rumbling was in the back when I shift from 1-3 and now I know. The rear diff was missing a bolt! and it was hanging for dear life with one stripped bolt! The mechanic said the casing grooves are stripped as well, so the diff needs to be replaced. I'm glad I didn't drive it much longer, my diff would have fallen out on to the road! (boom01)

So I took it back to the dealership and they are gonna hook me up, in the mean time they lent me a 2011 nissan altima... (lol2)

No, the differential doesnt need to be replaced..
they need to replace the cone and get 2 new bolts thats all, my car is at the dealership at this moment for the same problem.

the cone is like 250 bucks and the differential its 2300..

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Based on the current time (EST), dropped my MS6 at my mechanic to figure out if a leak for my A/C system could be fixed by changing out the gasket or replacing one of the lines.

Frigg!
If it's the line than I'm so screwed b/c labour alone will be a arm and leg. But I need the comforts of cool breeze...
 
hit up the final test and tune day at the local drag stip... got down to a personal best with the speed of a 14.73 i think it was... im getting a random hesitation at full throttle in 3rd and 4th at 5k RPM +
 
Oh, so many problems. :( Took it in to the dealer to have the transmission, PTO, and diff fluids changed, but it turns out that I have a borked left rear axle seal, they need to replace the gasket in the PTO which is leaking pretty steadily, and the last one was the big one, which I can't even remember right now, but all-in it's going to be about $2k parts and labour. On the bright side, at least I know that I'll have a healthy car and will get rid of the mechanical whine I was starting to get from the driveline somewhere.

Normally I wouldn't go to the stealership, but the small premium this one charges in the hourly labour (much lower than the dealers in the city) is probably worth it to have the comfort of someone who theoretically knows the car well doing the work. Should have it back before the weekend. Sigh.
 
Oh, so many problems. :( Took it in to the dealer to have the transmission, PTO, and diff fluids changed, but it turns out that I have a borked left rear axle seal, they need to replace the gasket in the PTO which is leaking pretty steadily, and the last one was the big one, which I can't even remember right now, but all-in it's going to be about $2k parts and labour. On the bright side, at least I know that I'll have a healthy car and will get rid of the mechanical whine I was starting to get from the driveline somewhere.

Normally I wouldn't go to the stealership, but the small premium this one charges in the hourly labour (much lower than the dealers in the city) is probably worth it to have the comfort of someone who theoretically knows the car well doing the work. Should have it back before the weekend. Sigh.

what were the symptoms for the rear axle seal? or was it just identified as part of flushing the fluids?
 
OJ what km are you at now? I get scared shitless to drive my car because of all the issues that come with high mileage speed6's
 
wannabe: It was identified when they got it up on the lift. I went in to check these things out too, and it seemed to be pretty clear.

Marko: I'm just under 95,000 miles now. LOL, I've given up beating on it (which I never really did much of) but it's our daily drive, so it gets used for all the basic stuff. Actually, we were thinking how it has held up pretty well and hasn't had any real issues since I got it.

It turns out the rear dif had been weeping for quite some time, which I knew about, but it must have gotten worse and the fluid was getting low. Keep an eye on yours and don't let it dry out.

Boosted: still looking great, man! You've inspired me to do a pre-winter cleanup when mine gets home.
 
i had an eventful night out on the town after an end of season fall cruise/pub crawl... woke up to discover i'd slept in the trunk of my speed... i also lost the back up key from my last remaining smart key... those suckers are expensive!! the dealership wants $100 for the key alone and another transponder is another 100ish... so i'm going to order some new smart keys off ebay, does anyone have any experience with this?
 
I order a pair of smart key cards off eBay. Paid just around $45 for them so far as I'm concerned I got a pretty good deal.
The seller (scoobyinc is the sellers name) did screwed up and sent me a "air bag" I think!

Don't know how they messed the order up, but finally got the correct item. Tried programming the keys myself only to discover that the originals themselves weren't programmed.

Long story short, I ended up going to the stealership and forked over $118 for them to do it. (DAMN IT) Still hurts to think about it...
But you should be able to get a set much cheaper than what the dealer is offering you.
 
I'd be interested in this too. My car only came (used) with one credit cart type key and one regular full sized back-up key. The CC key was lost last year after some enthusiastic celebrating, and I'm down to just the full size regular key. If I could pick up 2 new E-keys for $50, and have the dealer program them for $100, I'd be happy.

Edit: Be careful on ebay, some listings are for the CASE only, and don't include the actual electronics inside. From what I can tell in some searching, the 2 things to look for are:

FCC ID# BGBX1T458SKE11A01
Mazda part # GPYA 67-5RYC

(both unconfirmed, just what has been seen on the forums)
 
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@OJ Bartley

Well the auction that I won the listing was for smart key that's compatible with 2007 2008 2009 MAZDA CX-7 CX-9. I did confirm the Mazda part# and it's the same as a MS6 smart key. Maybe you should broaden your search with that information in mind...
 
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