What have you done to your Miata today?

[nate0123]

P.O. installed a start button in my Miata, and I never use it...

 

[WillD]

Yeah I never understood the whole start button thing in the older Miatas.

 

[princess peach]

I had one on the MS3 and the 3, but the MSM doesn't really have a good spot.

 

[njaremka]

if you buy the switch direct from mazda, it cost $275 - i picked up the kit, brand new, for $75. i thought it would be a cool accessory, so that's the reason i bought it. it is a redundant switch, but its fun.

 

[princess peach]

changed my plug wires and she's running smooth again, and no more boost creep even at 40 degrees

 

[nate0123]

I had one on the MS3 and the 3, but the MSM doesn't really have a good spot.

P.O. took out the cigarette lighter and installed the button in its place. This isn't my car, but the same install:

You could also do this if you relocate the hazard button:

 

[princess peach]

That's what I did on the other cars, got rid of the cigarette lighter, I even added a kill switch. The button lit up red and the switch blue. My ex hated it, it was quite bright... lol

[video]http://s317.photobucket.com/user/pchois/media/Tutuga/switchandstart.mp4.html[/video]

Unfortunately, I need it in the MSM, and I already have a s*** ton of wires\connections in there so I don't feel like adding more.

 

[THE Phen]

Why do you need it in the MSM?

 

[princess peach]

To charge the phone and the GPS. I've thought about buying the hard wiring for the GPS, but again I don't feel like putting more stuff in there.

 

[THE Phen]

Oh... I thought you meant the kill switch. I fully agree with keeping the plug.

 

[princess peach]

the kill switch should be easier in the MSM, but that would make the car really easy to steal...

 

[princess peach]

Changed the plugs on the car, accelerates fine (stopped) and has a normal idle but when the revs are going down it feels a little bit rough. Could that be because its getting used to the new plugs and wires? Keep in mind I cleared the CEL this morning so all the monitors on the ECU are clear.

Also, who knows how to read plugs? The little that I know tells me they were burning fine. The office is a bit dark today, so it might be hard to tell.

Cylinder 1: I assume the burned ceramic is because of the faulty wire, this one had a small crack... this is the one the ECU reported was misfiring.

Cylinder 2: looks normal to me

Cylinder 3: like #1, no crack on the insulator.

Cylinder 4: looks normal to me

 

[JamesCH]

More light and a closer macro would really help with 'reading' the plugs.

Scortch marks on the ceramic is something really new to me... I have no idea what to make of it.

 

[princess peach]

I can take better pics tomorrow, in the meantime: any thought about the engine being a bit rough when the revs go down? I still need to drive it, and I'm pretty sure the gap is fine at 1.1mm, I was very careful not to bump them into anything when putting them in.

 

[princess peach]

I'm still taking pics tomorrow, but I talked to a friend at work that races a Chevy Nova in the 1/4 mile. He said #4 is pretty much perfect, #2 is close. #1 and #3 were running a bit hot\lean, most likely due to the old wires. There is a bit of carbon build up on the edges, but again that might be due to the ECU trying to compensate the faulty wires. I'll give it a while for the monitors on the ECU to do their thing and compare them.

 

[Tungsten6]

Cleaned up the car for Miatapalooza tomorrow, probably the best she has ever looked.
Picking up a new Intake Manifold and a VVT VC (possibly more, local guy is parting out his car and he has a TON of mods. I want.

 

[subspeed6]

I can take better pics tomorrow, in the meantime: any thought about the engine being a bit rough when the revs go down? I still need to drive it, and I'm pretty sure the gap is fine at 1.1mm, I was very careful not to bump them into anything when putting them in.

Hmmm... I keep wanting to throw out cleaning the throttle body, but I'm not 100% sure...

Edit: Could be a dirty MAF too...

 

[JamesCH]

Re-installed the transmission last night, including starter, wiring harness clips, speedometer cable, reverse light, and clutch slave cylinder. Busy night.

 

[MoganDavid]

The (Chevy) dealer from whom I bought my second-hand 08 GT PRHT had put on Accellera Alpha in the OEM size 205/45/17. This tire can be found on the 'net for about $60. They are made in Indonesia. Most of the reviews I found were from across the pond and said the wet traction was terrible.
In the Fall, I drove down to the Smokies for a week vacation, which included a few passes on the dragon. My first pass was after dark, in light rain, and I was pretty worried. However, I kept picking up the speed and was surprised how much grip I had. The rear end got a wee bit loose a couple times and the TC light came on. But it wasn't scary even at a very brisk pace.
I've wanted to try a slightly larger tire. Correction: I would really like a much taller tire that would way lower my rpm's on the highway (closer to what they are in my MINI). But, that ain't gonna happen.
Many owners of the FR-S and the BRZ are selling their original equipment Michelin Primacy HP 215/45/17's. So, for a little more than the retail $ of one, I bought four yesterday. They are not installed yet. Next week I will have them put on my stock wheels. Despite their bad reviews from some car owners, espec Subyotas, it is probably a much better tire than the Accellera Alpha I have. For a while, I'd better hang on to the 205's just in case I find the Michelin Primacy HP to be awful on an MX-5 as they are alleged to be on an FR-S or BRZ. The Alpha's have only about 3K and show practically no wear.

 

[princess peach]

Hmmm... I keep wanting to throw out cleaning the throttle body, but I'm not 100% sure...

Edit: Could be a dirty MAF too...

It's running pretty smooth, so I'm not worried about it. Gets better after it warms up.