What have you done to your Mazda6 today?

buddy of mine told me i shot fire last night when i was running. lol
only weird thing ive noticed, is when im in it to win it and i shift from 2nd > 3rd the car dosnt back fire but pops hard and seems to stop producing power for that pop and then keeps boogieing like nothing happened. anyone else think im fine or just a simple spark plug change should be sufficient? helll maybe its just the way i shift.
 
buddy of mine told me i shot fire last night when i was running. lol
only weird thing ive noticed, is when im in it to win it and i shift from 2nd > 3rd the car dosnt back fire but pops hard and seems to stop producing power for that pop and then keeps boogieing like nothing happened. anyone else think im fine or just a simple spark plug change should be sufficient? helll maybe its just the way i shift.
 
The chicks love it! My GSXR does the same thing on cooler nights, only it's when Im at like 14k rpm and let off the gas.
 
Injen CAI / PG inlet / SU TMIC out . . . ----> SU SRI / SU TIP / CPE FMIC in . . .

Engine bay looks much more attractive now. Boy was the FMIC install a PITA.
 
Injen CAI / PG inlet / SU TMIC out . . . ----> SU SRI / SU TIP / CPE FMIC in . . .

Engine bay looks much more attractive now. Boy was the FMIC install a PITA.
 
So I took my car into Mazda in Sept for clunky shifting right, they claim it was "within spec." Well back when I bought the car, it had a stuck caliper, which caused my rear brakes to stick, causing them to wear down in like a week. So I did the rear brakes and rotors, moved on. Until last night, I didn't know that the Mazda6 shares one resavoir for brake fluid and clutch fluid (I'd never checked either). More brake fluid is required as your brakes wear. So I checked it, it was way below "Low," filled that s*** up, car shifts like a dream in combination with the RMM and Red-Line manual tranny fluid. Feels like a whole new car! Can't wait to install my MS STS and solid shifter bushings in the spring!
 
Found out that gas prices are 12cents cheaper across on the Missouri side. Unfortunately BP is the only gas station that carries 93 octane. And even the one in Missouri is only 92. But for 12 cents cheaper I think 92 is worth it. By the way witness an accident on the way home. And lesson learned is don't text while driving if your a female. And that the score is now Tree -1 Jeep -0 The tree will win every time.
 
got my vent pod in....and test fit the oil pressure gauge....

and now, it's stuck. holy sh*t. please tell me I'm not the only one who's done this....
 
Funkster777 said:
I didn't know this. But it explains the smell when I use the defrost: exhaust/oil smell, slight and not strong.
Click to expand...

Could be. Stick your finger between the back of the turbo and heat shield where the dp meets the turbo. See if your finger comes out black. Do this when its cold obviously.
 
I've discovered the source of an apparent short in the cabin. When it's cold and I go over any kind of substantial bump/pothole in the road all of the cabin lights will turn on briefly, and the door ajar indicator on briefly, as well. I also figured out that whenever I tap my clutch but not engage it...think flicking it with your toe.....the same thing happens. So, whenever I go over a bump it must jostle the clutch pedal enough to turn all of these lights on.

Anyone have any clue? Why on earth would the dome lights/door ajar light be connected to the clutch pedal??
 
Have got down and looked under there? The clutch arm may be coming into contact (or perhaps) snagged a line somewhere behind the dash.
 
This!

2zf3bf7.png
 
Anyone else have issues with either LCD screen blanking out when it gets really cold, like under 30F degrees?
screen returns when the car warms up, but the clock loses its time, LOL!

that reminds me.
since we been having a crazy cold front in SoCal this last week...
...believe it or not it SNOWed at elevations just 1hr north from Los Angeles.
I was driving home in a snowstorm in socal, was SOOOO weird. first snow since like 1994 i think.
 
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