What have you done to your Mazda6 today?

Taylor.. on cold startup i did not have any air coming out of my BOV, i let it idle for like 10 minutes and i kept going back and checking but no air was coming out of it at all.. then i let it sit for 5 minutes and started it back up and still no air coming out.. i have a feeling that the black seal that the allen nuts hold down isnt seated properly or is possibly cracked and its causing the leak at idle on yours, if thats not the case then it could be that the internal valve is malfuctioning and leaking air..
 
anddddddddddddddddddddd im back
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i knew the focus was just a rental....
 
Just washed it since the lazy ass dealership didnt do it. ( sat in like 30 mins of rain and then crazy hotness for 3 days so it was like waterspot crazy.

and i took my dads side of the garage since he is at work and his car is all dirty now. o well he will live.
 
Taylor.. on cold startup i did not have any air coming out of my BOV, i let it idle for like 10 minutes and i kept going back and checking but no air was coming out of it at all.. then i let it sit for 5 minutes and started it back up and still no air coming out.. i have a feeling that the black seal that the allen nuts hold down isnt seated properly or is possibly cracked and its causing the leak at idle on yours, if thats not the case then it could be that the internal valve is malfuctioning and leaking air..

Thansk man. I will have to check that out. My dad had put the bov on the pipe. He said he had to remove the front half to get more access to the o-ring. I will take it apart tomorrow and make sure everything is seated properly. I found out why my ltft's were +12. I opened the hood up today. Damn if the intake wasnt even connected. It was just sitting there barely touching the turbo inlet. I am just glad it didnt suck anything into the turbo. I pushed on it as hard as I could to get it to go on to drive back home. The tbolt had came loose as well. I remember I used engine oil on the inside to get it to slide onto the turbo since it was so tight. Got home and got it on as good as I could for the little time I had to work on it. Then tightened down the tbolt. Now the fuel trims are good. I need to remake this inlet. The angle of which it sits puts pressure on the coupler connecting the turbo.
 
Installed a Corksport SRI/TIP this morning. The quality of the TIP was good and no problems with fitment. I haven't had a chance to drive it yet other than around the block. I know it takes a while for the ECU to adjust anyway. The sound is good though. Driving impressions to come.
 
did the "spring stretch" thing today. went for a drive and first WOT blast, 2-3, and i got the damn surge. but, after that it hasnt happened again.

hopefully this will prove to be the fix. anyone else have luck with the spring stretch?
 
Hey i can pressure wash my floor mats right?? i have the all weather ones on right now and i just dug up the stockers and they are kinda nasty.

sound like a dumb question?? i think so but oh well.
 
Installed a Corksport SRI/TIP this morning. The quality of the TIP was good and no problems with fitment. I haven't had a chance to drive it yet other than around the block. I know it takes a while for the ECU to adjust anyway. The sound is good though. Driving impressions to come.

Nice man get the Cold air box if you can.. Helps a little with the inlet air temps
 
Thansk man. I will have to check that out. My dad had put the bov on the pipe. He said he had to remove the front half to get more access to the o-ring. I will take it apart tomorrow and make sure everything is seated properly. I found out why my ltft's were +12. I opened the hood up today. Damn if the intake wasnt even connected. It was just sitting there barely touching the turbo inlet. I am just glad it didnt suck anything into the turbo. I pushed on it as hard as I could to get it to go on to drive back home. The tbolt had came loose as well. I remember I used engine oil on the inside to get it to slide onto the turbo since it was so tight. Got home and got it on as good as I could for the little time I had to work on it. Then tightened down the tbolt. Now the fuel trims are good. I need to remake this inlet. The angle of which it sits puts pressure on the coupler connecting the turbo.

hahaha same thing happened to me in a different spot on my intake.. i know it was super tight when i put it on but one of my t-bolts somehow loosened up and this morning when i went to give it throttle it sounded like a whistle lol.. car ran pefect though.. i actually drove mine around without the intake on it and it was super loud and made boost way earlier then it was suppose too.. we could do that indefinetly if we could relocate the turbo like vivid motorsports did, make that super nice exhaust mani..

did the "spring stretch" thing today. went for a drive and first WOT blast, 2-3, and i got the damn surge. but, after that it hasnt happened again.

hopefully this will prove to be the fix. anyone else have luck with the spring stretch?

if your talking about the coil pack spring stretch, that wasent a good idea. now your coil pack springs are permanently like that, theres no going back after 1000 miles if you keep getting "the surge" which i can guarentee you will happen.. what you shouldve done was get the HKS Twin Ignition because 1000 miles from now when your replacing your coil packs you will have spent the $500 anyways that you couldve spent now and saved yourself the hassle.

Installed a Corksport SRI/TIP this morning. The quality of the TIP was good and no problems with fitment. I haven't had a chance to drive it yet other than around the block. I know it takes a while for the ECU to adjust anyway. The sound is good though. Driving impressions to come.

enjoy it!! awesome product..:D
 
Long term fuel trims are what are used by the ECU to keep your car at a stoich air:fuel ratio (14.7:1) while idling and cruising, or under low load conditions. The ECU has a certain range of correction, say +/- 12% to adjust the fuel to keep the car at stoich.

For example the AP allows you to log fuel trims. Basically, you want your fuel trims as close to 0 as possible, meaning the ECU isn't compensating or adjusting either way. If you fuel trim is very positive, like +10%, then the ECU is having to add 10% more fuel than expected to keep a stoich mixture and vice versa for a -10% fuel trim.

On a stock car, you can correct fuel trims by making sure that both your air metering and fuel systems are in good working order and no leaks, such as venting a BOV, etc. In modified cars, with BT,FMIC,Manifold,Meth,Injectors,Fuel Rail,Built Block,Blow Thru MAF, etc, you can use your engine management to adjust the LTFT's, such as in my case when converting to Blow Thru MAF, i had to scale my MAF Table to bring the LTFT's back to a good level.. +0 is best but if its +2 or +3 that isnt bad, when you get up too +12 thats not good.

Hope that explains a little. As far as short term, it's just that...another adjustment that the ECU can make over a very short period, basically on top of the long term fuel, but your ltfts are what you need to keep in order. STFT are just there for minor, quick adjustements.


just a quick explanation..
 
had the interior detailed today, tint tomorrow, exterior detail tomorrow aswell

whats everybodys opinion on tint? regardless of my local laws i'll be doing all 5 windows... at 35% or 50% whats 24/7's opinion
 
Long term fuel trims are what are used by the ECU to keep your car at a stoich air:fuel ratio (14.7:1) while idling and cruising, or under low load conditions. The ECU has a certain range of correction, say +/- 12% to adjust the fuel to keep the car at stoich.

For example the AP allows you to log fuel trims. Basically, you want your fuel trims as close to 0 as possible, meaning the ECU isn't compensating or adjusting either way. If you fuel trim is very positive, like +10%, then the ECU is having to add 10% more fuel than expected to keep a stoich mixture and vice versa for a -10% fuel trim.

On a stock car, you can correct fuel trims by making sure that both your air metering and fuel systems are in good working order and no leaks, such as venting a BOV, etc. In modified cars, with BT,FMIC,Manifold,Meth,Injectors,Fuel Rail,Built Block,Blow Thru MAF, etc, you can use your engine management to adjust the LTFT's, such as in my case when converting to Blow Thru MAF, i had to scale my MAF Table to bring the LTFT's back to a good level.. +0 is best but if its +2 or +3 that isnt bad, when you get up too +12 thats not good.

Hope that explains a little. As far as short term, it's just that...another adjustment that the ECU can make over a very short period, basically on top of the long term fuel, but your ltfts are what you need to keep in order. STFT are just there for minor, quick adjustements.


just a quick explanation..

Thanks! Thought it was fuel trims but didn't know what the +/- was. I don't have those major mods you listed and I'm full recirc w/my BPV but still have a little hiccup when shifting, would the AP be recomended?
 
had the interior detailed today, tint tomorrow, exterior detail tomorrow aswell

whats everybodys opinion on tint? regardless of my local laws i'll be doing all 5 windows... at 35% or 50% whats 24/7's opinion

30% is what I have, I really like it.
 
had the interior detailed today, tint tomorrow, exterior detail tomorrow aswell

whats everybodys opinion on tint? regardless of my local laws i'll be doing all 5 windows... at 35% or 50% whats 24/7's opinion

Went with 20% all the way around and really like it. This is my 3rd tinted vehicle, and I've finally found the tint setup that I like best. First was 50% F/5% R, then 20% F/5%R, now 20% all the way around.
 
i wont be going any darker than 35... i know that much... i'm gonna see what he has that would be inbetween 35 and 50
 
Just fixed my intake and made a bracket for it. I ran a 2" L pipe up from the turbo with a 45 degree coupler. There is now nearly a half inch of clearance from the manifold. I took off the other one and there was a hole in it. Now I am working on my exhaust in the rear. I took off the stock tips and painted them back. I am about to put those back on. I hope to try to fix this vibration in the back. We'll see how it goes. I also fixed a broken wire to the plug on the led tails.
 
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