What have you done to your CX-9 today?

I think it's cute @sm1ke and everyone else driving them signature editions

I got me one of the

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It's more exclusive.
 
When do you guys replace engine mounting?

Mine is starting to make noise (left, transmission side) at 60k km

Thinking to replace all 3
 
Changed my air filter, but then.....

Started the car a few hours later. Fired up, died within a few seconds. Crank, fire, die again. After the third time, I checked that the MAF plug was in check, and it was all good.

Start again, fired up and kept running. She stutter a few times, but seemed fine. I drove for a few minutes, noticing some more stuttering.

I pulled over and did a scan for codes. No codes, but the wrench light was on. After a 30 minute drive, throttle response felt off and manual shift mode for the trans was disabled.

An hour of sitting later, she fires up, no wrench light, manual shift mode is working, and she drives like she used to.

Wierd.
 
Washed/rinsed out the AEM DryFlow filter that comes with the Corksport air intake. Next up is an engine bay clean. It's supposed to rain all weekend, with temps dropping to single digits, so I'll just wait until its nicer out.
 
Fancy new shoes!
Michelin Cross Climate 2 from Discount Tire. They matched Sam's club prices and have road force balancers, so yeah went there instead.
 

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A little trick I learned from the Porsche community. Use some very inexpensive gutter guards from Home Depot, and secure them to the back of your grille with zip ties to keep the garbage out of your intercooler/condenser/radiator!

I also installed the OEM fog lights while I had it apart.
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Yes it seems that the caliper isn't squeezing evenly. Or possibly that one pad is dragging because the piston is slow to retract/doesn't retract.

What's your brake fluid moisture content? If you haven't changed the brake fluid in a while, I wonder if that could be part of the issue. Corrosion in the line could cause a flow restriction to the "good" pad side, causing that imbalance. Caliper slide pins should also be relubricated as needed (I check them whenever I have to change pads).
Hey,

Just an update though it's been awhile as I was on vacay and using my 3G eclipse as the weather warmed up.

So Powerstop sent a new kit under warranty. (They stand behind their products!)
Before receiving the new kit, I bought new rear pads to buy me some time. (Ceramic pads OE+ brand from Canadian Tire)

Anyways, the pads on three of the four, lost big chunks (0E+). See the pictures.
Last time I'm buying those, though I've had good experiences with other OE+ products.

I resolved another issue. The guide pin boot was not seated correctly over the guide pin and it allowed moisture and debris in. This could be one of the reasons the pin was not sliding properly.

Also, I took my time with cleaning under the brake pad clips with a wire attachment to my drill.

I strongly recommend removing the entire housing holding the brake pads in order to fit the pads back in properly. The clips are tight and it's easy for the pads to go in seated improperly. Push in the side with the noise clip and push the top pad in at a slight angle while pressing against the back of the clip. It's much easier doing this on a bench or seated position than laying on the ground.

Take your time, walk away for a few mins with a cold beer when you need to.

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Next time I'll definitely clean the rust off the brackets at the very least. Hell I may even do it the next time I get the rear wheels off.

Yikes, those pads don't look good. I'm sure they would have been fine with blank rotors though. I bet they weren't designed for use with drilled/slotted rotors.
 
I know that may be an extreme case, but even at 3000 miles I had enough buildup to justify my decision to switch to ceramics. Stopped the mess before it got too bad.
 
Next time I'll definitely clean the rust off the brackets at the very least. Hell I may even do it the next time I get the rear wheels off.

Yikes, those pads don't look good. I'm sure they would have been fine with blank rotors though. I bet they weren't designed for use with drilled/slotted rotors.
It's likely they weren't designed for the drilled and slotted. Still surprised by the breakdown and the additional dust.
 

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