What have you done to your CX-5 today?

Rumble or roaring sound increased with speed. Originally considered it was on the right side since the sound would change with a left turn. When I checked it on jack stands I found the sound was actually on the left rear. It's a DIY but access to the four bolts is difficult and required heat and penetrating oil.
Yeh it seems stuck bolts and nuts is a common problem on DIY suspension work on the CX-5. So you could tell you had a bad bearing when you jacked up the wheel and turning with the noise? And did you replace only the bearing or the entire hub with bearing?
 
Painted my calipers, cleaned my rims and rotated tires while off. Changed oil/filter also. It was a long day.
 

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I finally did manage to change spark plugs on my wife's 2014 2.5L CX-5. I used NGK ILKAR7L11 (Laser Iridium). Currently made in Thailand from Japanese parts as per info on the box. Mazda dealer quote of $395 Canadian motivated me to buy a dedicated torque wrench and a spark plug socket.

Lots of useful videos on YouTube as well as excellent guideline posted on this forum.

The process itself was very straightforward. The one problem I encountered (gave me a serious sweat) - I lost the rubber insert of the socket on my second plug. Pulled the socket but the rubber stayed on the plug. I did use a little bit of WD40 before starting. I sprayed a tiny bit on the cotton swab and rubbed the inside of the rubber ring to make it slightly more slippery but I guess that was not enough.
I somehow after a little struggle did manage to place the socket back on the spark plag, unscrew it and pulled out the whole thing. I fixed the socket, added some more WD40 using again just the cotton swab, checked that plugs are being hold properly but the socked can be removed easily and finished the other 3 very quickly.

So far the car starts just fine and drives like new. Honestly it was driving fine before but in February turned 10 years and has slightly over 110k km. I think it was the time. I bought spark plugs at Canadian Tire for $22 Canadian per piece.

I attaching a picture of the old one. They all looked kind of the same so this one is a good representation of their condition. Interestingly it's got Mazda logo and is made in Japan but I am not sure about the brand. Maybe someone can advise.
 

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I lost the rubber insert of the socket on my second plug. Pulled the socket but the rubber stayed on the plug. I did use a little bit of WD40 before starting.
Yeah, happens all the time! :D

But don't use WD40 on it, it can attack rubber/plastic. Better to use silicone grease.
 
The process itself was very straightforward. The one problem I encountered (gave me a serious sweat) - I lost the rubber insert of the socket on my second plug. Pulled the socket but the rubber stayed on the plug. I did use a little bit of WD40 before starting. I sprayed a tiny bit on the cotton swab and rubbed the inside of the rubber ring to make it slightly more slippery but I guess that was not enough.
I somehow after a little struggle did manage to place the socket back on the spark plag, unscrew it and pulled out the whole thing. I fixed the socket, added some more WD40 using again just the cotton swab, checked that plugs are being hold properly but the socked can be removed easily and finished the other 3 very quickly.

Almost exactly what happened the first time I did a spark plug change on my CX-9, lol. Only in my case, the rubber insert in the socket fell out as I was removing it. So I just had a small rubber insert loose inside the engine. Thankfully I was able to fish it out with some wadded up tape on the end of a rod, haha.
 
Yeah, happens all the time! :D

But don't use WD40 on it, it can attack rubber/plastic. Better to use silicone grease.
Yeah, I read that some plastic might be affected. At that time I did not have a choice (but that's why I was trying to use as little as possible) and unless something is wrong I should have no need to change the spark plugs on this car any time soon. For my CX-9 I think I am going to try a different kind of a spark plug socket or use a magnetic tool and repurpose this one (after removing this rubber insert) as a regular socket (I found that regular, deep sockets in my set are still slightly too short to use them with spark plugs :confused: ).

Almost exactly what happened the first time I did a spark plug change on my CX-9, lol. Only in my case, the rubber insert in the socket fell out as I was removing it. So I just had a small rubber insert loose inside the engine. Thankfully I was able to fish it out with some wadded up tape on the end of a rod, haha.
Oh my, I would get a heart attack in a situation like this. Good for you for not loosing it completely.
 
Almost exactly what happened the first time I did a spark plug change on my CX-9, lol. Only in my case, the rubber insert in the socket fell out as I was removing it. So I just had a small rubber insert loose inside the engine. Thankfully I was able to fish it out with some wadded up tape on the end of a rod, haha.
For me it was that the extension kept popping off of the socket when I was trying to pull the plug out. Some tape fixed that problem.

I washed the car yesterday and tried a wet wax. Will see how it holds up. I've been pretty lazy lately. I actually need to clay bar and compound / polish the car again as there are lots of water spots on the paint that feel etched. Not sure from what, but I sure noticed them yesterday.
 
I use a deep socket only to break the plugs loose and to torque the new plug to spec but for removal and installation, I use one of those flex "grabber" tool with a grapple on the end.
Screenshot_20240826-125538~2.webp


I like this method because the grapple has enough tension to spin the plug out/in but not enough to risk cross threading. Also, it gives you very fine touch/control/feel of the plug engaging the head so you don't risk inadvertently altering the gap during install. You can easily see the plug going down into position. 👍
 
I washed the car yesterday and tried a wet wax. Will see how it holds up. I've been pretty lazy lately. I actually need to clay bar and compound / polish the car again as there are lots of water spots on the paint that feel etched. Not sure from what, but I sure noticed them yesterday.
That sucks. Sometimes the process of working in a wax/sealant will remove the water spots, unless they are etched in. In that case you need an acidic solution. This video just dropped the other day, which may be helpful.

 
What was your cleaning process for the calipers? And did you leave them on the car?
I use to just use sandpaper but awhile back knowing I would do this I ordered wire brush wheels that attach to my drill. Such a difference, just got to manipulate the drill and different size wire wheels to get different angles. I'll post some pics later of the clean up using the wheels. After that and a lil sandpaper I just wiped it all down with a clean rag and water. Let it dry while I did other things around house/garage. I did not remove any of the calipers. Used 3 different size brushes and did multiple coats of red then sprayed on multiple coats of clear.
 
I painted my calipers with plastidip. "Anthracite Grey HyperDip". It works great. I've been doing this for years. It's easy to peel off, and it protects the calipers from rust. i use to use regular paint, and learned what a pain it is to remove.
 
117,000km Changed Transfer Case Oil with Royal Purple, did a Plug Replacement NGK Laser Iridium and first Drain / Refill with FZ ATF. Curious about the time frame on the second FZ change time or mileage. Amazed how clean the Transfer Case fluid was.
 
Per the spark plug posts a few back…

I used this socket


  • Incorporates a unique leaf spring retainer system to hold the spark plugs firmly in the socket. Does not slip like magnet grip systems, and does not grip too tightly like o-ring systems.
 
Replaced some parts on rear driver side:

- rear trailing arm + new hardware
- rear lateral arm + new hardware
- rear lower control arm + new camber kit + new hardware
- rear link kit
- rear spring
- rear shock + mounting plate + new hardware

Camber bolt was seized in bushing so had to sawzall it.

Spring was broken off near bottom.

Shock bolt was seized in bushing - had to angle grind the shock and take it off the bushing, remove the rubber and take it off with lots of heat and time. Not fun at all.

Was surprised to find KA0G28700B shock — can’t find this part number online to cross reference ?

Just about 250k km / 155k mi

Passenger side is next.

Cheers
 

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