Savageese a YouTube reviewer sent his mzd moly for oil analysis after 15k miles. The final comment said send it back after 18k miles next time. Granted it was 2L - feel my 8k miles per OC is spot on.
Youre saying it wasnt worth changing the oil? You may well be right and what I did today just satisfies my old fashioned conscience but Ive got no concrete evidence that it was necessary. In some ways, I hope it was a waste of time but I think this car will be a keeper so Ill set it off in life with as good a chance as possible. This oil analysis service that seems commonplace in the US is virtually unheard of in the UK. I wouldnt know who provides such a service.
Yes, its perhaps a bit old fashioned but I changed mine today at just under 7000 for the same reason. It will get done again at 12 months and then every 12 months or 12500 miles as required in the UK. Its a bit more involved on the diesel as the oil data must be re set so Ill detail it in the how to section at some stage. For now, a view of the engine with the various shields removed.
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Have you ever considered OEM GT LED taillights? Your steps should be fine. All aftermarket LED taillights are plug-and-play like OEM. I personally dont like the one with resister but if you want LED turn signals thats unavoidable. I dont think you need reseal anything as the light assembly should come with rubber seal or you can reuse the old one. Actually I dont even bother to disconnect the battery terminal and just to keep the ignition off should be sufficient.Posting my Qs here in hopes of an answer![]()
I want to add aftermarket Rear LED Tail Lights - never been fan of Touring turn signals. Pretty much blanked out by Texas sun.
My Q's for folks who have already done this:
1. Do I need to do anything specific after connecting the battery back? TPMS sensors etc. Or is it just disconnect, connect new lights, test them and fix them in and connect battery boom ?
2. Should I seal the lights before putting them in? Options that you suggest.
3. My steps are : Disconnect battery
Open rear access patch / door - unplug, unscrew current tail lights.
Add new ones, connect battery - test all functions - hazards, reverse etc etc.
After successful test mount the resistor on some metallic surface.
Am I missing some steps? Do I have to reseal it after the seal is broken when removing the larger tail light?
How's it sound?Anchored the sub.![]()
Have you ever considered OEM GT LED taillights? Your steps should be fine. All aftermarket LED taillights are plug-and-play like OEM. I personally don’t like the one with resister but if you want LED turn signals that’s unavoidable. I don’t think you need “reseal” anything as the light assembly should come with rubber seal or you can reuse the old one. Actually I don’t even bother to disconnect the battery terminal and just to keep the ignition off should be sufficient.
1. You can either get a pre-owned Bose sub to fit in the reserve tire if there is any in the market.Does anyone know of a subwoofer solution/enclosure that will sort of hide away in the wheel well area of the hatch? I always have long and bulky things going in through my hatch so having the sub in the way would be kind of a no go, but I want a sub; and I don't really feel like spending custom sub and enclosure money. Hahaha. Alternatively, I guess I could build and carpet my own enclosure to tuck away, but I haven't really got a lot of time to be doing that.
I'm so happy with the soundHow's it sound?
OEM spare-tire Bose sub has a tiny 5 woofer/driver. It cant be too much good for low-end bass!1. You can either get a pre-owned Bose sub to fit in the reserve tire if there is any in the market.
2. You can make your own thick fiberglass or hardwood enclosure that would fit the wheelwell area.
3. You can get the same sub that I got which is removable via a single screw and plastic terminals for the wiring. Around 1 minute tops to remove. I'm so happy with the sound
Very very tight if that's your thing. The combination of class D amplification and passive radiators are what I expected them to be. Minimal or nearly no artificial extensions. Very punchy too. I unplugged the stock Bose "sub" because they do not integrate well with the new sub. The Bose "sub" itself holds it's own. However I was looking for the added weight below 40hz where the Bose starts to roll off. I also used the stock configuration of the xover cutoff of the system.
My reference home speakers is what I own. Golden Ear Triton 2+. That was my 2nd taste of passive radiators.
Is it worth the $350+ air shipping to my country? Yeah! If you looking for quality low frequency reproduction, this could be for you. It also plays loud but I really never tried pumping up the gain.
Ha! Showing off your kick-ass sub again ⋯ (2thumbs)
Installed the Spigen Kuel mount for the cellphone. Radar Detector hardwired and installed behind the Sunstrip Tine. Hardwired Dashcam and attached to the forward Radar/Camera housing.
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Does anyone know of a subwoofer solution/enclosure that will sort of hide away in the wheel well area of the hatch? I always have long and bulky things going in through my hatch so having the sub in the way would be kind of a no go, but I want a sub; and I don't really feel like spending custom sub and enclosure money. Hahaha. Alternatively, I guess I could build and carpet my own enclosure to tuck away, but I haven't really got a lot of time to be doing that.