What have you done to your CX-5 today?
- Thread starter Kayger12
- Start date
how long did it take for fwd? did you replace with oem or corksport?
the corksport website makes the removal and install easy looking hehe.
how difficult is it to install for awd?
im planning to fill mine with poly urethane after i take care of some maintenance items
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- 2017 CX-5 GT
Oil change yesterday at dealership for my 2017 GT. I get it done every six months with the very low amount of driving I do especially these stay indoor days. Also got the firmware updated. Every other oil change is free with dealer. However, they recommend, as always, wheel alignment for $99 and $70 for cabin filter replacement, which is ridiculous. I declined. I have 13300 miles on vehicle and it would be my third alignment since I bought the CX-5. Arriving today, the cabin filter cost me $8.97 plus tax from Amazon (EPAUTO CPJ6X). It takes more time to empty my glove box than replace the filter.
Chris_Top_Her
Contributor
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- San Antonio, Texas
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- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
Many places (like brake check) offer a "lifetime" alignment that usually cost less than two alignments. Then you just go in when you think you need it or if you got new tires or something
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- 2015 CX-5 Touring
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- AWD w/Tech Pkg
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- 2015 CX-5 Touring
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- AWD w/Tech Pkg
Well lets see, I have a 2015 that is pushing 68k so this week I took it the dealer to pick up a new battery. The old one was getting super sluggish and was leaking non stop. Shortly after that it had its tires rotated only to drive a few miles home and picked up a nail that the tire place said couldnt be removed due to the angle and the fact that the tread is at the point of no return. 40k on my current tires aren't bad in my book especially with 3 round trips from CO to CA in the past 4 years. Yokohama YK-HTX for the win! I honestly dont have the money for new tires at this time so I went and got a second opinion today. (It made my light come on which to be honest I never knew worked because its never came on period) The other place pulled the nail out and no issue it never pierced it so now its about a sensor going bad/dead. Outside of all of that I just drove her and jammed out on my way home from everything. 
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I just had a big nail removed and patched a few day ago, for free, at Americas Tire, since they have installed it and they offer this warranty. They also had to balance my tires also for free, due to the bad vibration, that one of the wheels had.
This car is fun and I still like it a lot, but there are just to many issues propping up. Next job, needs new front control arms and the two outer tie rods(all four rubber boots are torn), than of course an alignment.
I have just replaced all four brakes and all four struts/shocks. All this, at 65k miles. I'm seriously thinking about replacing it, but there not much out there what I like. Maybe the Alfa.
This car is fun and I still like it a lot, but there are just to many issues propping up. Next job, needs new front control arms and the two outer tie rods(all four rubber boots are torn), than of course an alignment.
I have just replaced all four brakes and all four struts/shocks. All this, at 65k miles. I'm seriously thinking about replacing it, but there not much out there what I like. Maybe the Alfa.
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- Plano, Texas, USA
I was surprised those rubber boots on your 2014 CX-5 are already torn at 6+ years and 65K miles, especially in a nice California environment. Those ball joint and tie rod rubber boots were torn on my ‘98 Honda CR-V only after 20 years and 180K miles of service under hot and freezing North Texas severe environment!
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- Canada
To be fair, tibimakai's car is lowered quite aggressively on CorkSport lowering springs for the 1st gen. When you change the suspension geometry that much, certain parts will wear much faster than intended, which means that you eventually replace the worn parts with aftermarket bits that are designed to handle the modified suspension. Can't blame the car for that!
I had an AWD IS250 that I lowered 2.5-3" on coilovers. In the following couple of months, I bought and preemptively replaced the OEM upper control arms, toe arms, etc. with aftermarket parts designed for lowered cars like mine. I drove it for a good 3 years without having to replace anything (and I drove it fairly aggressively, too).
Chris_Top_Her
Contributor
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- San Antonio, Texas
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- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
I replaced it with a cork sport poly mount a few months ago, but because I want my torque at the wheels, not lost to twisting.. nothing seemed to be wrong with it
Chris_Top_Her
Contributor
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- San Antonio, Texas
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- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
it's those bad corksport springs man, you should get id of them asap. Across the board (mz3/6/cx5) those springs always have bad feedback. If you want "cheap" low get CXracing coilovers; at least you will have a matching shock with those. If you just want springs, H&R don't get as low but they are much better suited for OEM suspension components. Why do you need LCAs?
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- 2016.5 CX-5 GT AWD titanium/black 2016 Miata Club ST MT white
You only have 13k miles on your CX and it's already had the alignment done twice? Is there a reason for that? Did you hit a curb or did you feel that the alignment was off? Or just because the dealer 'recommended' that you need an alignment?
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- 2017 CX-5 GT
No reason really. The car drove perfectly and I should have been a lot wiser the second time they recommended the alignment. When I bought the car, the promotion was every other service would be a free oil change as long as I owned the car. So, I suppose they are trying to recoup their "losses" by their unnecessary recommendations.
I don't understand, what has the lowering to do, with ball joint boots tearing up?
I have already installed the Koni Yellows, it rides very well, but I don't feel a big difference from the factory ones. I feel mostly the difference, because they are new, most likely.
CS springs are harsh, but if the roads in LA would be better, they would be a perfect spring set. The bad roads make them "bad". Here in LA, specially in the downtown area, you need a Jeep for those roads.
No worries with the springs, I'm researching already for my next car.
I have already installed the Koni Yellows, it rides very well, but I don't feel a big difference from the factory ones. I feel mostly the difference, because they are new, most likely.
CS springs are harsh, but if the roads in LA would be better, they would be a perfect spring set. The bad roads make them "bad". Here in LA, specially in the downtown area, you need a Jeep for those roads.
No worries with the springs, I'm researching already for my next car.
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- Canada
Basically, lowering the vehicle changes the suspension geometry. If you don't account for the change in the suspension geometry, your suspension is put through more abuse than normal. This is a list of cons regarding lowering a car, copied and pasted from another website:
- Reduction in ride quality. Depending on how much the car has been lowered and the type of springs and shock absorbers used, there will either be a slight or dramatic loss of ride quality. The car will be more jiggly and you’ll notice new bumps in the road – which previously would have been ironed out by your standard suspension doing its job properly.
- Increased wear and tear. Lowered suspension inherently has less “give” or travel available, meaning your car will hit harder and slam into pot holes or other road imperfections. This increases the chances of damaging your wheels and increases wear on other suspension components. The increased wear and tear also applies to your car’s interior, which will create an ever increasing amount of rattles and creaking noises over time, as the fasteners used to secure components gradually loosen. This will eventually make your vehicle feel ‘older’ than equivalent vehicles that are still riding on standard suspension, potentially impacting resale values.
- Increased bottoming out. We’ve all seen it – drivers of lowered vehicles entering driveway ramps at ridiculously low speeds and also on angles, in an attempt to reduce the chances of scraping the front bumper, rear bumper or underside along the ground. Contact with the ground obviously causes damage to the car, ranging from wear marks on the front or rear bumpers, through to damage to the exhaust system or the underside of the engine.
- Potential Handling problems. Lowering a car can potentially increase handling, but only if the road is perfectly smooth – which are rare to non-existent. On roads with imperfections you might actually end up cornering slower, as the car hits harder and skips across bumps. It’s the suspensions job to keep the tyres in contact with the road at all times, and lowered suspension can’t always do a good job of that.
- Uneven tire wear. In some cases, lowered suspension can cause tires to wear unevenly or cause extreme wear patterns. Drivers should look out for this consequence when altering their suspension in any way.
- Rubbing on bodywork. Lowered cars are also at an increased risk of having their tyres rub on the guards or inner wheel wells while driving. The risk is more pronounced when going over bumps or whilst turning – or when both happen at once. This can result in damage to your tyres and also to the vehicle itself.
- Reduced practicality. Lowering a vehicle makes almost everything more difficult. Whether its carrying a heavy load or simply trying to fit a jack under the vehicle to lift it up for routine maintenance, having lowered suspension can make a simple job a lot more difficult than it should be.
If I remember right, some of the issues you've had with your car were rattles, tire wear, and having to replace worn or failing suspension parts. Unless you had these issues before you lowered your car, it would seem that the aggressive drop on the OEM suspension was the origin of your problems. As far as the ball joint boots, I don't know specifically how they got torn - could be from contact with other parts, maybe something similar to this.
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- Canada
Here's another website that explains everything better than I could.
www.shocksurplus.com
Sorry for derailing the thread.
Things to Consider When Lowering Your Vehicle
Front to Back Cars Lowering Mega-Guide For many enthusiasts, lowering their car is the first and most important modification they do to their vehicles. There is no question that losing a little height will transform the look of your ride, as well as the handling. Heck I don’t think I’ve ever...
www.shocksurplus.com
Sorry for derailing the thread.
I don't have any serious issues with my car, one of my tire was unbalanced, that caused all the vibration.
I have a creaking sound coming from the driver's seat, but that is most likely a bad welding issue, since I heard a pop one day. A while ago the lumbar support had a similar issue, bad welding, they had to replace the whole back of the seat.
When I was checking out my suspension for the vibration, I have seen one of the engine/transmission mounts that seems like it allows way to much movement, and I have replaced it.
To me, it seems like the rubber components on this car are way to soft, it could be that the Cali heat is causing this, I don't know.
I have a creaking sound coming from the driver's seat, but that is most likely a bad welding issue, since I heard a pop one day. A while ago the lumbar support had a similar issue, bad welding, they had to replace the whole back of the seat.
When I was checking out my suspension for the vibration, I have seen one of the engine/transmission mounts that seems like it allows way to much movement, and I have replaced it.
To me, it seems like the rubber components on this car are way to soft, it could be that the Cali heat is causing this, I don't know.
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