What 5W30 oil brand do you use in your CX-9?

Chickdr, just got back from my first complimentary oil change on my CX-5 2022 turbo and the dealer installed 5W30 "Conventional" oil. They indicated that is what is required by Mazda. I find that unacceptable in a turbo and have asked them to change it. Will see what transpires.

Maybe your invoice comment is referring to Mobil 1 5W30 synthetic? Hopefully so.
 
Chickdr, just got back from my first complimentary oil change on my CX-5 2022 turbo and the dealer installed 5W30 "Conventional" oil. They indicated that is what is required by Mazda. I find that unacceptable in a turbo and have asked them to change it. Will see what transpires.

Maybe your invoice comment is referring to Mobil 1 5W30 synthetic? Hopefully so.

Could just be what that particular dealer chooses to use for 2.5T engine oil changes. MOIL is likely shorthand for motor oil, so they may be using a bulk full synthetic 5W-30 (or a customer supplied full synthetic 5W-30 oil) instead of the minimum requirement of an ILSAC certified 5W-30 oil (which can be conventional, blended, or fully synthetic).
 
Chickdr, just got back from my first complimentary oil change on my CX-5 2022 turbo and the dealer installed 5W30 "Conventional" oil. They indicated that is what is required by Mazda. I find that unacceptable in a turbo and have asked them to change it. Will see what transpires.

Maybe your invoice comment is referring to Mobil 1 5W30 synthetic? Hopefully so.
My interpretation of the invoice I received: MOIL is "motor oil" and the specific type is 5w30 full synthetic. Obviously it varies dealer to dealer what they use to do the oil changes. It seems as if Mazda is not specific about synthetic or conventional oil.
 
Reposting here a good option in case of oil dilution:

Sharing an experience with Rotella 5w-30 (multi-vehicle).

This oil turned out to be particularly good for engines with dilution. Got a hint from WRX forums and got repro on both of my cars. Rotella results marked with red:

1: 2015 WRX started to show diluted analysis after a Stage1 protune.
2: 2019 CX9 - dilution issue started from 5k miles, well described here ) To mitigate the issue I used to run very short intervals and was consistently getting low viscosity within 2200 miles. Now I can get back to 5k intervals or even longer. Amazing.View attachment 314330View attachment 314331


The Rotella 5w-30 is pricey, but exactly in November Nappa runs a special.
 
I’m settled on Penzoil Ultra Platinum 5w30 with a Mobile 1 oil filter. I change my oil every 3500 miles max. I drive about 50/50 city and HWY about 5 days a week, a couple family trips a year.
 

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I’m settled on Penzoil Ultra Platinum 5w30 with a Mobile 1 oil filter. I change my oil every 3500 miles max. I drive about 50/50 city and HWY about 5 days a week, a couple family trips a year.
Are you aware Mazda uses a different OEM oil filter for your 2.5T, but Mobile 1 uses the same oil filter for both 2.5T and 2.5L NA?
 
Chickdr, just got back from my first complimentary oil change on my CX-5 2022 turbo and the dealer installed 5W30 "Conventional" oil. They indicated that is what is required by Mazda. I find that unacceptable in a turbo and have asked them to change it. Will see what transpires.

Maybe your invoice comment is referring to Mobil 1 5W30 synthetic? Hopefully so.
I bring my own oil to the dealer (typically Mobile 1, Castrol Edge, or PUP 5w30). They've never questioned me and end up charging me less for the service. A lot of the Mazda dealers use the cheapest bulk oil they can get their hands on which I do not think it right for a turbo application (VW USA learned this the hard way ~20 years ago not long after the 1.8T came on to the market).
 
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I’m settled on Penzoil Ultra Platinum 5w30 with a Mobile 1 oil filter. I change my oil every 3500 miles max. I drive about 50/50 city and HWY about 5 days a week, a couple family trips a year.
Great Oil, terrible filter, Use a Wix 57002 or a Mazda 1WPY-14-302, the Wix is the only aftermarket filter that's designed correctly.
 
Great Oil, terrible filter, Use a Wix 57002 or a Mazda 1WPY-14-302, the Wix is the only aftermarket filter that's designed correctly.
Wix claimed its 57002 is specifically designed for Mazda’s SkyActiv-G 2.0L / 2.5L NA which uses PE01-14-302A and 1WPE-14-302 OEM oil filters. Although Wix claimed its 57002 can also be used on the SkyActiv-G 2.5T, but it definitely has different specs to PY8W-14-302 and 1WPY-14-302 OEM oil filters which are used on the 2.5T. I wouldn’t use the Wix 57002 on the 2.5T.
 
I'm wondering what the general consensus it on the brand of oil for the 2nd gen CX-9. Some swear on Mobil 1 and some stay with Castol Edge as the "dealer's recommendation". Any noticeable difference in MPG and/or engine NVH when switching between brands? Catrol Edge alone has the black and gold bottles.
Mazda OEM filter and Kirkland 5w-30 synthetic.
 
My current favorite motor oil is Valvoline Restore & Protect:
The Motor Oil Geek: Valvoline Restore & Protect

The Geek, Mr. Lake, is a tribologist, a certified expert in friction and lubrication, and what he says matches my knowledge and experience with oils...my career involved operating and maintaining machinery in difficult environments; steam turbines, diesel engines, hydraulic, refrigeration, gear boxes, and many other types of machinery. I've read many lubrication tech manuals and been trained in factory classes.

It appears that Mobil 1 oil filters are made by Champion Labs, a division of First Brands Group LLC which also owns Fram. Champion Labs makes several private label brands of oil filters including ACDelco, Royal Purple, SuperTech, STP, Amsoil, and others. There are only a handful of U.S. filter makers...ParkerHannifin owns Baldwin & Hastings, and First Brands has several U.S. facilities. The German company of Mann+Hummel owns WIX & Purolator with some made in the U.S. NAPA now gets their own branded filters made in China, they're no longer a WIX product.
 
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My current favorite motor oil is Valvoline Restore & Protect:
It looks like a good product, especially good for older engines to clean them up, but I saw another youtube showing it clogged a filter in 500 miles. Maybe it would be good to change the filter ahead of time to avoid that happening.
 
The youtube video by "A Toolbag?" A couple of points: Every oil filter has a bypass valve. It opens to ensure oil flow through the engine when the oil is very cold & thick and too thick to filter, and also in case the filter media clogs. Unfiltered oil is better than no oil. The bypass valve might open at something like 6 or 8 psi differential, the difference between the pressure at the oil filter inlet and at the outlet. It could be that the bypass valve in the Fram filter failed and did not allow sufficient oil to flow through the engine.

The other thing is that this 16 year old engine might be full of sludge. In a case like that I'd start with a half fill of Restore & Protect and a half fill of ordinary Valvoline synthetic oil for the full oil drain interval. The next 3 oil changes use a full fill of R & P. Restore & Protect is intended to fully clean an engine during 4 normal oil drain intervals so that it doesn't loosen too much crud at one time and clog a filter.

Or, the youtube guy dummied up the video to get more views and make more money.
 
Still using Castrol Edge, Mobile 1, or PUP. I added a can of LiquiMoly MoS2 after my last oil change. After a few hundred miles, definitely hear a little less top-end noise (not that it was terribly loud before). I've used this product in my German cars over the past 15 years with pretty good luck.
 
Laides & Gentlemen - It's just oil. Most of them come from the same suppliers/refineries and have hardly any difference from one another. How you drive and when you change the oil will easily make more of a difference than the brand name or marketing gimmicks written on the bottle.
 
As a sensible driver who has been diligent with oil changes, I like to experiment with oils and filters on my cars. Royal Purple 0w20 has led to significantly higher mpg than all the Castrol/PUP/Mobil 1/Idemitsu that I have used over the years.

However, with 165K miles on my 2.0 NA, I would like to focus on longevity. I am also concerned that it is running hot like 2.5 turbos. During my normal commute yesterday on a fresh batch of 5w30, the oil temp went as high as 216, while it would reach 224 easily on 0w20. Will find out today how high it gets on a 3-hour trip. If it still goes 220+, then I will add some LM moly for the return trip to see if it makes any difference. I used the LM treatment regularly in my R56. It may have saved that 1.6 NA engine in a catastrophic cooling system failure in 2018.

Everywhere I go, I see oil debates. The only time there is somewhat of a consensus on the choice of oil is in the first gen RX-7 group. But even then, someone would pop up and say hey I run full-synthetic and it is fine.

My beauty routine consists of one biotin infused rosemary mint hair oil for my face and neck (don't worry I haven't grown a beard), one Korean BB cream, one cocoa butter swivel stick for my eyes/lashes/brows, and one tinted lip moisturizer. I do believe that SKII products would turn back the clock though. 😊
 
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Laides & Gentlemen - It's just oil. Most of them come from the same suppliers/refineries and have hardly any difference from one another. How you drive and when you change the oil will easily make more of a difference than the brand name or marketing gimmicks written on the bottle.

Mostly agree with you.

When VW first released their 1.8T in the USA they were not very strict about what oils their dealerships were using and they ran into a lot of problems with oil sludge (which led to a class action lawsuit and VW's now strict oil requirements). As the 2.5T was Mazda's first mainstream turbo, and my local dealers only offered cheap, 'bulk' non-synthetic, I decided to start bringing my own oil for service.
 
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