Warranty & Trailer Wiring Harness

Yea, howlin4u's write up is probably the best with that arrangement/tester cover. I don't see why you would run it out the door, seems like pinching the wire and it looks ghetto. I pierced the grommet, fished the wire thru (which btw is over the heat shield so most of it will be out of reach of water/dirt) and put some rubber seal spray over it. I then wrapped the wire itself in some of that split plastic tubing (oem style but ofc it's not "sealed" just a shield)). In hindsight, you could also lay the wire out and put a layer of plastidip over it. @ Skorpio is that a cotter pin hole sized lock on that bolt? I've been looking for something like that for my bike rack bolt; It's a threaded bolt, but the only hole on it is for the cotter (which I can't seem to find a cotter sized lock).
 
I wouldn't call my lock a cotter pin size. It's a Master Lock with the same diameter as a TSA/luggage bag lock. I don't have the numbers off hand, but have you checked that category?
 
Skorpio said:
I wouldn't call my lock a cotter pin size. It's a Master Lock with the same diameter as a TSA/luggage bag lock. I don't have the numbers off hand, but have you checked that category?
Click to expand...

oh that's a good idea.. I didn't think about standard locks thanks.
 
Is the rubber grommet that many have used to route wiring underneath located on the driver side? I saw some wires via grommet today while installing the hitch.
 
Kedis82ZE8 said:
Is the rubber grommet that many have used to route wiring underneath located on the driver side? I saw some wires via grommet today while installing the hitch.
Click to expand...

qure8y6u.jpg
 
^ You will need to fish around because it will be over the heat shield on the underside of the car.
 
Chris_Top_Her said:
^ You will need to fish around because it will be over the heat shield on the underside of the car.
Click to expand...

Thanks Skorpio for the pic!

Thanks Chris_Top_Her for that info!!! I was just going to ask that about the heat shield. I will probably put wire loom on wiring. I assume heat shield keeps most of the heat away and I don't have to worry about melted wires?
 
Kedis82ZE8 said:
Thanks Skorpio for the pic!

Thanks Chris_Top_Her for that info!!! I was just going to ask that about the heat shield. I will probably put wire loom on wiring. I assume heat shield keeps most of the heat away and I don't have to worry about melted wires?
Click to expand...

(drinks) I did not need to "fish" it, I simply kept pushing the wires down and reached up with my fingers and grabbed it. I don't believe there is enough heat above the heat shield to have any worries
 
Hello, I am new so excuse my ignorance if I am posting in the wrong forum or the question has already been answered somewhere and I could not find it. I am thinking of buying a CX-5 as it seems for my overall needs (child safety, mpg, driving comfort, price etc) the best fit. Now that I read that it can haul a little bit, I was wondering should I go with Mazdas class 1 trailer hitch or get a thrid party (e.g. Uhaul class2 trailer hitch) the need would be tooccasionally rent a little uhaul box trailer to go camping (otherwise just a bike rack). Would a third party trailer hitch installation void any possible warranties?
thanks a lot!
 
The factory hitch requires that a notch be cut in the bottom of the bumper. It also costs a lot. The net wisdom seems to be the Curt hitch. I installed one on my CX-5. I twas not hard to do. No drilling, nothing gets cut. Just bolt it on.

might as well go with the Curt wiring as well. I like the powered units. They are a bit harder to install as you need to bring them 12 volts, but if your trailer lights short out they don't take the car electronics with them,
http://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/Mazda/CX-5/2014/118563.html?vehicleid=20141174260

Search the archives, there are instructions and hints for both.

Frank
 
FYI, factory hitch is Class II, not I. It has a 1.25" square opening for the draw bar. Most that have gone with the Curt hitch have gotten the Class III version with a 2" square opening for the draw bar. Both hitches are perfectly fine on the CX-5 as long as you don't exceed the towing capacity of the vehicle. I have the factory Class II hitch and yes, the dealer did need to notch the bumper to install it, but they did a very neat job and for all practical purposes it is not noticeable. Using non-factory will not void any warranty.

One thing not mentioned is that if you do do-it-yourself, most have said that an extra person helping is a good idea (to hold the hitch up while some of the bolts are being threaded).

Hope that helps.
 
So etrailer sent me THIS Tail Light converter and I installed it even before I know it was not the "right" one. It was a splice in. I called them and they confirmed it was wrong and had no idea why their web site directed me to that product ... but said it would still work if I did not put a large load on it. BUT is using a non powered, splice in unit just asking for electrical problems, shorts, ground issues down the road in the CX-5 electronics? eTrailer said it Should be fine. I am not sure I wanna opperate on Should Be.

And so I am thinking of changing to THIS unit from etrailer, the one that IS recommended for the car that is powered. But I am wondering ... If I install the powered unit ... can I connect the power supply to the OEM location at the harness rather than running the power all the way to the battery. I have read this whole thread and it seems this has been talked about but never confirmed.

Can I use THIS aftermarket kit but plug it into the OEM power location PER THESE INSTRUCTIONS at the harness.
 
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I'm not sure how much this suggestion helps, but after I installed the OEM Mazda wiring harness, I realized I could've done it a different way. I purchased the OEM Mazda wiring harness because I wanted it on it's own circuit, and did not want to run a wire the length of the car. After I installed it (works fine), I realized what I should've done. I should have bought one of the cheaper curt plug and play wiring harness, used that to plug into my tail lights instead of using the wiretap directly on my taillights, and use the wiretaps, or solder, from the OEM Mazda wiring harness on the curt plug and play connectors, and just disconnect all the other wires from the curt unit. I know it's a little overkill, but I would have had a powered circuit with a fuse and plug and play connections.
 
MrM1 said:
So etrailer sent me THIS Tail Light converter and I installed it even before I know it was not the "right" one. It was a splice in. I called them and they confirmed it was wrong and had no idea why their web site directed me to that product ... but said it would still work if I did not put a large load on it. BUT is using a non powered, splice in unit just asking for electrical problems, shorts, ground issues down the road in the CX-5 electronics? eTrailer said it Should be fine. I am not sure I wanna opperate on Should Be.

And so I am thinking of changing to THIS unit from etrailer, the one that IS recommended for the car that is powered. But I am wondering ... If I install the powered unit ... can I connect the power supply to the OEM location at the harness rather than running the power all the way to the battery. I have read this whole thread and it seems this has been talked about but never confirmed.

Can I use THIS aftermarket kit but plug it into the OEM power location PER THESE INSTRUCTIONS at the harness.
Click to expand...

Yes, You can do that and I think it is a good idea. The only catch is those little terminals that you are instructed to add at each end. You will need to find a source for them. Perhaps your Mazda Dealer.
 
I converted my trailer lights to LEDs and used the easy Curt quick connect kit with no splicing and all is well. I did have to drill one hole for the ground.
 
Kedis82ZE8 said:
I converted my trailer lights to LEDs and used the easy Curt quick connect kit with no splicing and all is well. I did have to drill one hole for the ground.
Click to expand...

LEDs reduce the load. I still like a separate supply. I had a dear hit my trailer and take out the lights, the short took out the car lights. No tail lights or break lights is not good. Being hit by a dear is rare but problems with trailer lights is very common.
 
fdew said:
LEDs reduce the load. I still like a separate supply. I had a dear hit my trailer and take out the lights, the short took out the car lights. No tail lights or break lights is not good. Being hit by a dear is rare but problems with trailer lights is very common.
Click to expand...

I hear ya.... it definitely doesn't hurt to have that extra safety measure. It's probably just the old and stubborn part of me as I have had similar setups for 20+ years with no issues on other rigs. Of course something will happen to me in short order and I will be back to say... "you told me so..." :)

I do keep extra fuses on hand just in case.
 
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Kedis82ZE8 said:
I hear ya.... it definitely doesn't hurt to have that extra safety measure. It's probably just the old and stubborn part of me as I have had similar setups for 20+ years with no issues on other rigs. Of course something will happen to me in short order and I will be back to say... "you told me so..." :)

I do keep extra fuses on hand just in case.
Click to expand...

I was thinking about this. There is another way. If towing a LED equipped trailer then the non powered module could be used and three 1 amp blade fuses could be installed in the three hot wires in the 4 wire connector to the trailer. That might provide some protection against a short in the trailer wiring. I looked it up and the max draw on a utility trailer is going to be less then 1/2 amp on a brake light circuit. Less on all the tail and marker lights combined.
 
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