Warranty & Trailer Wiring Harness

[Kedis82ZE8]

I am aware of things like the Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act but wondering if I should go with the stock Mazda trailer harness or one of the 3rd party options. It appears 3rd party you have to run a positive lead the full length of the vehicle versus tapping into a connector with stock harness.

Not sure Mazda harness can be purchased separately from hitch. It is bundled on MazdaGear.com and MazdaParts.org.

I plan to go with a 2" hitch as many of my existing receiver accessories and trailers all use this size.

EDIT: It appears https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) can be purchased separately.

 

[Turbopowr]

I used the $32 https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) harness on my 2015 CX-5 GT and everything just plugged right in to the rear tail light connectors. Pretty easy install and didn't take more than about 30 minutes.

 

[fdew]

I thought I read there two different types. I thought someone was saying that the one that taps into its own power is safer for the electrical so if a short happens on trailer it won't take your vehicle lights out versus the version running off of the tail light circuit. I've never had this happen myself but scenario sounded plausible.

Yes, that was me that said it. The powered units need a source of 12 volts. The Mazda trailer wiring package tells you where to get the 12V but there are other powered adapters as well.

I had a dear run into a utility trailer. It took out the trailer lights and all the car lights except head lights. No tail lights, no turn signals. Also, it is easy for trailer lights to get messed up just sitting.

 

[fdew]

No mater where you get the trailer adapter, these instructions may be helpful for telling you how to get the panels off and how to get 12 volts from the front.
http://ep.yimg.com/ty/cdn/yhst-24809172479195/cx5trailerhitchharness.pdf

 

[Kelly_A]

I have the OEM harness. If you opt for that, I'd suggest not using the supplied red wiretaps. Mine have all failed (one at a time, of course). Since the dealer did the install before I took delivery, my assumption was they didn't crimp the taps tightly enough. Using pliers to "squeeze" the taps temporarily got things working again, but the taps would fail again within a week. I finally just carefully stripped back the insulation with a razor knife and soldered & taped the connections. I was surprised the OEM wasn't plug-and-play, like some of the aftermarket harnesses.

 

[fdew]

I installed the OEM kit. If I was going to do it again I would install this.
http://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/Mazda/CX-5/2014/118563.html?vehicleid=20141174260

It is plug and play (Except for finding 12 volts) and it is powered so your Mazdas electronics are protected.

 

[Skorpio]

I was looking at that one the other day. This kit and then like posted use OEM instructions to tap into wire used for 12 Volt in back and connect to it in front power block for battery connection. I don't like having a whole new 12 volt line run from front to back from battery.

In addition I plan to cut trailer connector so I can route through existing rubber grommet in floorboard and then solder & heat shrink the connections.

I also bought the Curt wiring kit

I used the $32 https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) harness on my 2015 CX-5 GT and everything just plugged right in to the rear tail light connectors. Pretty easy install and didn't take more than about 30 minutes.

According to Curt, it claims to have circuit protection built in so if the trailer lights go, it doesn't take the vehicle lights with them. But, I havent tested that claim out yet.

 

[fdew]

I was looking at that one the other day. This kit and then like posted use OEM instructions to tap into wire used for 12 Volt in back and connect to it in front power block for battery connection. I don't like having a whole new 12 volt line run from front to back from battery.

In addition I plan to cut trailer connector so I can route through existing rubber grommet in floorboard and then solder & heat shrink the connections.

I don't know why they write that. The Mazda instructions identify a spare wire in the harness that they say to use for 12 volts. Also I don't know why 12 volts couldn't be taken from the accessory jack in the back. You need to run a wire right past it to get to the right tail light.

I used the spare from the front. It is a bit fiddly to find and get to but it works.

 

[fdew]

Actually tapping of the accessory jack is an interesting option. I need to check FSM to see what circuit this is fused off of and what it is rated at.

So you use the suggested circuit listed in instructions for OEM trailer wiring? or something else?

I used the suggested wire. It is part of the harness but open on both ends. It needs a fuse and connection to 12 volts under the hood and a connection to the trailer controller at the other end.

http://ep.yimg.com/ty/cdn/yhst-24809172479195/cx5trailerhitchharness.pdf

 

[Skorpio]

Turbopowr & Skorpio: How many lights on your trailers are you driving with the 56011 kit? I do like the option of a kit that isn't as invasive to wiring as some of the others. One could go LED on trailer if load is too much.

2

 

[fdew]

Some info from etrailer

http://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx

Each incandescent taillight draws about 2 amps and side marker lights typically draw about 0.5 amps each. Most converters allow up to 4 amps to pass through them. A standard converter cannot have any more than 1 taillight on each side.


Modulite or Powered Converter - Used with vehicles that do not provide enough electrical power to handle the additional strain of powering trailer lights, the Modulite or powered system draws power directly from the battery but still connects to the vehicle's wiring system to determine when to power the lights on the trailer. If there are too many lights on the trailer for the vehicle's electrical system to provide adequate power, use a modulite or powered converter. A modulite installs the same way as a standard converter except an extra wire must be run to the battery. Instead of drawing power from the vehicle wiring system, a modulite draws power directly from the vehicle battery. This is safer because the extra amps to power the trailer are no longer going through the expensive electrical components of the vehicle. More vehicles are using thinner gauge wire and require a modulite, regardless of how many lights are on the trailer, simply to protect their wiring system.

 

[Turbopowr]

Turbopowr & Skorpio: How many lights on your trailers are you driving with the 56011 kit? I do like the option of a kit that isn't as invasive to wiring as some of the others. One could go LED on trailer if load is too much.

4 lights on my trailer. 2 tail/brake lights and 2 side markers.

 

[trapperjohn]

4 lights on my trailer. 2 tail/brake lights and 2 side markers.

I have a very basic trailer also. 2 brake and 2 side markers, the basic Curt kit works fine and very easy to install. If I had more lights then I would have gone with a 12volt power kit.

 

[Kedis82ZE8]

Are most of you running the trailer wire out the back door when in use or through rubber grommet in floorboard?

 

[fdew]

Are most of you running the trailer wire out the back door when in use or through rubber grommet in floorboard?

I live in the frozen north. It is wet and sloppy a lot here so the connector stays inside when not in use.

 

[Skorpio]

Are most of you running the trailer wire out the back door when in use or through rubber grommet in floorboard?

I ran mine through the grommet but I also don't live in a high corrosive environment.

 

[Kedis82ZE8]

Thanks!!

I might just run out door for now. If I end up towing more than occasionally I might run through grommet and make sure connections are coated well with dielectric grease.

 

[Turbopowr]

I don't tow often so I just leave it coiled up under the spare tire. Easy enough to just run it out through the hatch when needed. I keep a bike rack on my hitch just about 24/7.

 

[Skorpio]

Thanks!!

I might just run out door for now. If I end up towing more than occasionally I might run through grommet and make sure connections are coated well with dielectric grease.

If you ever decide to run it underneath, you can put a cover/circuit tester on the plug for added protection (in addition to dielectric grease)

 

[Kedis82ZE8]

That looks good....I might have to consider that.