Ill have to look at how it is on the GTI to compare. But that seems like an easy fix.... when Ive seen similar kinda ice issues on other brands they always developed a retro fit and created a TSB. Ive purchased and installed myself in a couple cases. One was literally a block of foam to fill a void.
Warning - Possible Hatch Damage Due to Ice Forming
- Thread starter Studum
- Start date
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- 2022 2.5GT
It*s a one off. We*ve never had it before and why are you so confident that the drainage is poor? The voids around the door are virtually identical to the MkI and any other SUV if it comes to that. What is unusual in this case is the weather conditions. If you get rain then frost it will build up ice and it*s ice that*s done it.
Just took a look at our '18. There is not much room between the top edge of the hatch and the body of the car. I did pour water into the area of concern and the water drained off quickly. But, I could see snow trapping water in there and then freezing causing an obstruction and hatch damage as it opens.
Thanks for the heads up!! We are expecting snow, sleet, rain, freezing rain here in NJ over the next two days and I warned my wife of the issue.
One solution is the hatch needs to stop moving up when there is resistance. I also notice I have to push down on the hatch with all my weight to stop it from moving up once its moving. No reason for that.
Thanks for the heads up!! We are expecting snow, sleet, rain, freezing rain here in NJ over the next two days and I warned my wife of the issue.
One solution is the hatch needs to stop moving up when there is resistance. I also notice I have to push down on the hatch with all my weight to stop it from moving up once its moving. No reason for that.
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- 2018, Mazda, CX-5, Snowflake Pearl, Grand Touring
I live in southern Arizona so ice and snow are not a common problem here, although I did have quite a bit of snow at my house this past New Years Day. Fortunately not enough to cause a hatch problem. However, I did experience a scenario similar to the OP about 3 weeks ago.
I pulled my CX-5 into the garage but realized too late that I had not pulled it in as far as I usually do. Before I came to this realization, I moved to the back of the vehicle to remove some groceries. As I pressed the button to open the hatch it hit me. The hatch door was going to hit the bottom of my opened door.
The first thing I did was grab the hatch and tried to stop it. No joy. Instead of hitting the button, I just hung on to the hatch but my 179 pounds wasn't enough to stop it.
When the hatch hit the bottom of the door, it continued to go up, forcing my door to go further than it was set to go. Fortunately I have a brand new, thick rubber gasket on the bottom of the door so the only damage that was done to the hatch was some nasty scuffing. I was able to correct the paint and only have one very minor scratch that is not easily seen. Also, since I have a double door garage, it did not damage the garage door track like it might have if I had a single, large door. All the force of the hatch was pushing against the center of the single door.
Now here is the problem that I see with what I went through as well as the OP and perhaps a few others that posted on this forum. The hatch would not stop going up, no matter how much down force was put on it. There was no safety cut out and there was no blown fuse.
My situation did not involve any injury from my run away hatch but it could have been disastrous if I had gotten my hand caught between the hatch and the bottom of my garage door. I let go of the hatch door just before it made contact with the garage door bottom. No doubt there would have been a few broken bones in one or both of my hands.
I got lucky this time, escaping vehicle damage and bodily damage but it was close. I was fairly shaken after this incident.
Mazda NA needs to take full responsibility for damage caused by an unsafe, remotely operated portion of their vehicles. A recall is in order.
That's my story and I'm sticking to it!
I pulled my CX-5 into the garage but realized too late that I had not pulled it in as far as I usually do. Before I came to this realization, I moved to the back of the vehicle to remove some groceries. As I pressed the button to open the hatch it hit me. The hatch door was going to hit the bottom of my opened door.
The first thing I did was grab the hatch and tried to stop it. No joy. Instead of hitting the button, I just hung on to the hatch but my 179 pounds wasn't enough to stop it.
When the hatch hit the bottom of the door, it continued to go up, forcing my door to go further than it was set to go. Fortunately I have a brand new, thick rubber gasket on the bottom of the door so the only damage that was done to the hatch was some nasty scuffing. I was able to correct the paint and only have one very minor scratch that is not easily seen. Also, since I have a double door garage, it did not damage the garage door track like it might have if I had a single, large door. All the force of the hatch was pushing against the center of the single door.
Now here is the problem that I see with what I went through as well as the OP and perhaps a few others that posted on this forum. The hatch would not stop going up, no matter how much down force was put on it. There was no safety cut out and there was no blown fuse.
My situation did not involve any injury from my run away hatch but it could have been disastrous if I had gotten my hand caught between the hatch and the bottom of my garage door. I let go of the hatch door just before it made contact with the garage door bottom. No doubt there would have been a few broken bones in one or both of my hands.
I got lucky this time, escaping vehicle damage and bodily damage but it was close. I was fairly shaken after this incident.
Mazda NA needs to take full responsibility for damage caused by an unsafe, remotely operated portion of their vehicles. A recall is in order.
That's my story and I'm sticking to it!
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I am kinda surprised by that as minivans with the auto doors and auto windows have all been designed to detect resistance and stop exactly to avoid injuries and damage. That is a design flaw IMHO.
But Im sure it will probably take multiple people being injured and forming a class action and/or complaints to NHTSA before they would actually address it.
But Im sure it will probably take multiple people being injured and forming a class action and/or complaints to NHTSA before they would actually address it.
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- 18 CX-5
Thanks OP, David Paul for sharing your experience. We definitely need to be very careful with the second gen lift gate then. It almost got my chin once when my car was parked too close to the wall.
On the one hand I like the power lift gate very much, as it no longer falls on me in extreme cold weather, as the hatch on my first gen CX-5 used to do. (Apparently extreme low temperature had an impact on the viscosity of the hydraulic fluid inside the two arms -- just trying to make up an explanation tho.)
However, after reading this post I'll keep reminding myself the powerful liftgate is stubborn too (potentially in an unsafe way).
On the one hand I like the power lift gate very much, as it no longer falls on me in extreme cold weather, as the hatch on my first gen CX-5 used to do. (Apparently extreme low temperature had an impact on the viscosity of the hydraulic fluid inside the two arms -- just trying to make up an explanation tho.)
However, after reading this post I'll keep reminding myself the powerful liftgate is stubborn too (potentially in an unsafe way).
7eregrine
The man, the myth, the legend
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- Land of Cleve
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- 2016.5 CX5
While I agree that I am glad to not have that stupid auto tailgate feature. No offense, always hated it. Being glad for the 5 calories you burn (if that) opening it yourself is silly. That's in no way shape or form: 'exercise'.
I love not having to touch the dirty lift gate. I came from an Acura Sedan. My CX-5 replaces a car and I love it. I'm not trying to be rugged, I'm not trying to go off road, or race anybody. I guess I'm a soccer mom. I welcome comfort and convenience, and also love the way it drives.
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- San Diego, CA
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- 2014 Mazda3 S GT auto, 2008 MX5 6-speed
Here's a good story for everyone.
When I was a teen with my Mazda RX4 and then RX3, I ran into an annoying problem every Winter morning after I had washed the car, the day before. The result was that I couldn't place my key in the door. Ice would form in the key slot and block the key.
I had to go back upstairs to boil some water and then pour it on the car door, over the key slot. Both doors were locked in the same manner, so I had to resort to this method many times during cold Winter mornings.
This was in Connecticut, by the way. I no longer have to deal with ice.
When I was a teen with my Mazda RX4 and then RX3, I ran into an annoying problem every Winter morning after I had washed the car, the day before. The result was that I couldn't place my key in the door. Ice would form in the key slot and block the key.
I had to go back upstairs to boil some water and then pour it on the car door, over the key slot. Both doors were locked in the same manner, so I had to resort to this method many times during cold Winter mornings.
This was in Connecticut, by the way. I no longer have to deal with ice.
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- Canada
I ran into the same issue as a teen with my first car (1984 Chevy Celebrity). After the first couple of times, I learned to use the compressed air at the car wash to "blow out" the locks. If compressed air wasn't available, I would insert the key and lock/unlock a few times after parking the car, then go back out after a short while to lock/unlock again. Each time I did the lock/unlock, I'd pull the key out and wipe it with a dry towel. This keeps the water from freezing the key cylinder shut completely, and ensures that the door lock doesn't stick.
Back on topic, that's a real shame that Mazda didn't help Studum out. This doesn't seem to be a common issue, but it's a definite issue that Mazda Canada should be investigating.
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- 2022 2.5GT
Correct, the issue is when opening / not closing. There is a resistance stop on the opening portion but it requires MUCH more force than when closing. I encourage you to try it if you haven't.
All gen 2's have both of the rubber seals at the top of the hatch. UNLESS Mazda has stopped installing them. Mine is a '17 GS (Canadian version of touring).
In addition, Mazda has specifically said that the rubber seals are not designed or intended to keep water out - but to reduce wind noise. And with this lies the extremely aggrivating issue to anyone who experiences this as I believe it is a combination of those rubber strips and the body contour at the top of the hatch between the hinges that causes the problem in freezing rain conditions.
5.0FoxRod I've borrowed your pic if you don't mind to illustrate what I believe happens.
The issue I see is embedded in the photo and they compound on each other.
- There's a slight bowl type of shape in the body between the hatch hinges which should channel water down to the drainage trough around the hatch opening.
- There's an outer body seam rubber seal (shown as seal #2 above). However this doesn't actually seal tight between the roof and hatch when the hatch is closed. Per Mazda this is by design, this seal is intended to reduce wind noise not keep water out.
- Once water gets in past seal #2, it's then trapped in the bowl created by the body contour and seal #1 which blocks the water off from the trough when the hatch is closed. In the correct conditions this starts the ice buildup.
- Once the ice buildup starts, if temps remain low and water continues to trickle in it build upon itself occupying the space between the closed hatch roof area and the body structure.
- Then, if the hatch is opened as the hatch roof has no where to tip into because the ice is there, the hatch roof is bent up as the force of the actuators continues to open the hatch.
This is my own theory I came to. But of course Mazda saw no responsibility in the matter, the dealership didn't seem to care and it was put on me. I was told to "call my insurance company".
I hope this helps others understand what's happened. If it helps someone else get help from Mazda if it happens to them I'm happy for you (and would love to be contacted so I can go back at them).
After I got my vehicle back and came to my own conclusions above I have removed rubber seal #1 from the photos above. I park in the same driveway, outdoors, go to the same parking lot at work, and knock on wood haven't had it happen again (yet). I don't know what the ultimate resolution is but I saw removing the seal as a stupid cheap / easy way to try and prevent it from happening again.
I have not noticed any additional wind noise... If it does happen again the car will no longer be owned by me within a short period of time afterwards.
All gen 2's have both of the rubber seals at the top of the hatch. UNLESS Mazda has stopped installing them. Mine is a '17 GS (Canadian version of touring).
In addition, Mazda has specifically said that the rubber seals are not designed or intended to keep water out - but to reduce wind noise. And with this lies the extremely aggrivating issue to anyone who experiences this as I believe it is a combination of those rubber strips and the body contour at the top of the hatch between the hinges that causes the problem in freezing rain conditions.
5.0FoxRod I've borrowed your pic if you don't mind to illustrate what I believe happens.
The issue I see is embedded in the photo and they compound on each other.
- There's a slight bowl type of shape in the body between the hatch hinges which should channel water down to the drainage trough around the hatch opening.
- There's an outer body seam rubber seal (shown as seal #2 above). However this doesn't actually seal tight between the roof and hatch when the hatch is closed. Per Mazda this is by design, this seal is intended to reduce wind noise not keep water out.
- Once water gets in past seal #2, it's then trapped in the bowl created by the body contour and seal #1 which blocks the water off from the trough when the hatch is closed. In the correct conditions this starts the ice buildup.
- Once the ice buildup starts, if temps remain low and water continues to trickle in it build upon itself occupying the space between the closed hatch roof area and the body structure.
- Then, if the hatch is opened as the hatch roof has no where to tip into because the ice is there, the hatch roof is bent up as the force of the actuators continues to open the hatch.
This is my own theory I came to. But of course Mazda saw no responsibility in the matter, the dealership didn't seem to care and it was put on me. I was told to "call my insurance company".
I hope this helps others understand what's happened. If it helps someone else get help from Mazda if it happens to them I'm happy for you (and would love to be contacted so I can go back at them).
After I got my vehicle back and came to my own conclusions above I have removed rubber seal #1 from the photos above. I park in the same driveway, outdoors, go to the same parking lot at work, and knock on wood haven't had it happen again (yet). I don't know what the ultimate resolution is but I saw removing the seal as a stupid cheap / easy way to try and prevent it from happening again.
I have not noticed any additional wind noise... If it does happen again the car will no longer be owned by me within a short period of time afterwards.
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- 2019 cx-5 signature. 2019 cx-3 awd touring
dang, sorry to hear this has happened..what a shame.
Have you also looked into paintless dent removal?
The top doesn't seem to have paint damage, from what i can tell, and the repair could be done a lot faster and cheaper.
I wish you the best, sucks this happened and Mazda is not helping.
Have you also looked into paintless dent removal?
The top doesn't seem to have paint damage, from what i can tell, and the repair could be done a lot faster and cheaper.
I wish you the best, sucks this happened and Mazda is not helping.
Bingo
Somewhat unrelated, but I guess also related. I got us a Chrysler Pacifica (hybrid). I know, not direct competition / not fair /etc / etc. The fact is though I had wanted a CX-9 up until this as it could've worked. But since I was no longer pressuring myself into Mazda being the immediate and only go-to I would open up my horizons and go full dad-mode for ultimate versatility. I've been pleasantly surprised with the ownership experience so far (knock on wood) and don't regret making this call at all. In fact in a twisted way I'm sort of happy this happened to get me out of the Mazda dealership and to what was ultimately a better vehicle for our needs.
I sincerely hope this doesn't happen to anyone else. My own frustration level with the issue was for sure compounded by the fact that I didn't drive into anything or have anyone hit me to cause the damage. It was the vehicle damaging itself without me being able to predict it happening. Also it was the timing of the event as it happened at one of the most stressful times of my own life and was something I needed fixed / didn't have the time / energy / resources or help from local dealers to try and get Mazda to help me.
That said I felt it prudent to get it out there and let others know about the potential of it happening and not to expect much from Mazda.
If you live in a climate exposed to freezing rain or flash freeze / thaws you might want to consider removing the weather seal #1 pictured above.
In retrospect I had warnings it was could happen. That weather seal had a couple of times frozen to the body earlier in the year, but it had always just pulled itself off the hatch and stuck to the body. It was secured with popping clips almost like it was designed to do so and I was able to simply pop it back onto the hatch. Oh how hindsight is always 20/20. In my defense I had no idea it could cause an issue as big as it did.
PDR was my first go to. You are correct there was no paint damage and it was an option. I saw 3 PDR places and they all said it was possible, but due to the large size and way it was tweaked it was going to be very labor intensive and couldn't guarantee it would be perfect. All 3 places said they would also need to remove and reinstall the hatch to work on it - which was a big reason for their higher than normal quotes. Quotes for PDR were in the $750-$1000 range out the door with same predicted down time as the body shops.
Ultimately, due to the circumstances I went with the lowest cost option I had available to me. PDR would've been my preference and I likely would've gone that route if that one body shop didn't help me out big-time.
Cheers. It may not seem like it but I've moved on. It only grinds my gears again now that it's happened to someone else and they're likely going to be just as upset with the outcome as I was.
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