vtcs help

First time poster .. long time reader. I'm posting this here .. since I don't think anyone has noticed my post in the 'how-to' (I thought it would be appropriate for there .. to help others in case they have the same problems I do ..).

Well Saturday I started the vtcs job, etc. removing the manifold/tb. I also had purchased a Outlaw Engineering spacer kit .. figured I do them at the same time.

After trial & error, after measuring the steel pipe (after praying for the strength of Samson ...) managed to move that a mighty 1/4".

That was about 7 pm. So I finished getting everything back together Sunday. Went to start the car .. and instead of the 'normal' idle .. I got 3500 rpm @ start. Which dropped to about 2200-2400 in sporadic intervals (best description for the uneven revving of the engine .. rough idle). Before I rip this thing apart again, any one have any experience or ideas of what might cause that?

In the Outlaw instructions .. it says you may have to adjust your throttle cable length. I haven't been able to find any information on exactly how to go about doing that (in the downloadable manuals). That might account for the high idle speed.

The kit contained both the thick 'plastic' (my generic term for it ...) gasket, as well as two, paper like gaskets for each side. I didn't use any sealant .. which I'm now thinking was a big mistake.

I'm fairly certain (I did take pictures during ...) that I didn't miss any vacuum lines or electrical connections putting it back together (it looks complicated .. but as you are familiar .. everything is spaced to fit perfectly .. making it almost idiot proof

As far as the manifold itself .. I took a little different route. Instead of completely removing the vacuum actuator (sp) & bar, I opted instead to just unscrew the butterfly pieces (in case I change my mind). I did do the porting while I had it out (was really surprised at the ~ 1/8" lip on the bottom side that needed to be removed). Really only did just the bottom .. as I felt that it caused the biggest restriction to the air flow.

At this point .. since I need to get my car back together .. I'm leaning toward just putting the butterfly's back in. I'm looking for some guidance, suggestions (I have it apart currently ...) before I slam it back together. I purchased some gasket sealant (based on what I see of the gaskets .. though .. I'm still not sure I need it).

Suggestions .. experience .. etc.

This is a great forum .. tia.
 
did you reset the ecu. if so i think ive read that they replace the ecu with the mp3 ecu and that same symptom goes away.
 
I have a feeling the throttle cable issue you brought up is the problem. I can't tell you how to fix that, but it could explain the high idle.
 
yeah it's probably the throttle cable

but anyway, leaving the rod and vacuum actuator in place does you NO GOOD now that you've "ported" the manifold... grinding that lip away means you can't put those butterflies back on anyway... they wouldn't work right anymore!

so in otherwords, it's too late, can't change your mind now!
 
i think it might be the cable because when a friend of ours did this (platinummsp) he had the same problem... maybe you should hit him up... but now hes just gone back to stock... so im not sure.... but give him a pm and see what happens
 
Thanks gent's for the help.

Well, after removing/installing/removing/installing/removing/installing .. it seems to have stabilized. What I finally did .. was put almost everything back to stock (except for the im spacer). Idle seemed to stabilize without the 'surges' as well.

'The Man' .. I've read a lot of your posts, and it's obvious that you know these cars. Even with the area ported out, wouldn't the butterflies still have an effect .. even without that 'lip'? Even though they're not sealing '100%' .. with that 'cutout' on top .. they weren't really sealing 100% to begin with. Regardless .. since I think I figured out the source of the erradic idle (the tb spacer/throttle cable issue) .. I'm probably going to remove them for good this weekend.

I had also read in the vtcs how-to about someone referring to problems with idle & the tb bypass .. which also led me to put that back to stock (something that is a easy redo).

As far as the tb/throttle cable. I looked in a Ford manual .. trying to get ideas for the cable adjustment. Looked under the dash (near the pedals) trying to find a screw or some way to adjust that. I couldn't find anything or anyway (I have no experience with that at all ..). So for now the tb spacer is off permanently.

Oh almost forgot. ON the way to work this morning, the check engine light came on. How exactly do you 'reset' the ecu? I've searched for that on the forum, and found various clues .. but not anything definitive (such as disc. negative or positive terminal from the battery).

Thanks again.
 
My experience exactly. I kept the intake spacers - but removed the TB spacers. The intake spacer eliminates Ah-LOT of heat - so the TB spacer really isn't needed (IMHO)...
This fixed the vacuum leak (causing the 'hunting' idle) and the cable binding/high idle. i agree that removing the VTCS bars is a 'good' idea. It really will flow noticably better - it just pulls *way* harder in the upper revs now.
 
When I did the VTCS removal I cut the bar flush with the inside of the first runner, filled the others with quicksteel(500 degree stuff), ported/polished. This allowed me to leave the actuator in it's original location where it can do whatever it normally does & from outward appearances nothing has been done to the IM. I just used a zip strip around the actuator post & port for vacuum on the bottom of the IM right close by to keep it from leaving it's position in the manifold. Once installed it is all but impossible for that to happen anyway because the dipstick or mounting plate for an electric connection is there blocking it from coming out anyway. Just used the zipstrip as insurance. Kept it loose enough for the actuator to move as it did before.
 
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