upgraded my Protege
- Thread starter Astral
- Start date
I figured. 152,000 and still chugging. Going to be a long winter
Perhaps this will be the 1st NEPOC group engine swap meet (but not for at least another 100K, right eh?)
LOL Never!! She's still running strong and doesn't seem to be going through much oil. Gas Mileage is still great. Might have to do another timing belt change before the motor goes.
OK, I'm gonna start using this thread as a "here are things I did to my RX-8", similar to altspace and Reitrof.
So here's what we got for upgrades...
Bad (kinda) news first:
New engine!
Almost 70K on the clock. Engine diagnosed with low compression at 68K. The power felt down since 60-ish K or so (at least since the winter was over, the gas mileage seemed to have dropped over the winter). Compression numbers were about 7.0 6.8 6.7, 7.2 7.0 5.8 (!) @ 720rpm. After the dealer ran the intake vacuum test required by Mazda, Mazda granted a replacement engine the same day. I'm waiting to put it in until early July, since I'll be out of the country.
The current effects are that the engine runs, but the idle is rough (partially due to worn engine mounts, again) and low-end power feels considerably down. Not that the rotary has gobs of low-end below 5K anyways, but in comparison to Zelse's and Greenblurr93's cars, yeah, it's down on power. The top end seems OK, but it's probably not doing all that healthy either.
Cat is OK.
I don't know why the engine lost compression. I performed regular maintenance. Did redline it once a day. My theory is that I put a ton of highway miles on the engine, ~25K of them before the emissions recall to add more oil at cruising RPMs was done. That may have done some engine damage, though the engine did check out OK at the time. In March of this year, Mazda came out w/ another reflash that added even more oil. I put plenty of cruising miles during that time, so I wonder whether Mazda didn't fix the problem entirely the first time.
I did have my compression checked at 55K and it was at spec (mostly 8.x readings at 215rpm). So somehow, I began losing compression within 10K since then. According to a Mazda tech, Mazda requires the intake vacuum test because it can diagnose a blown/bad engine even when the compression is good. Perhaps that was my case.
Actually, I'm pumped for the new motor, because I'll get my power back! (plus some fuel economy)
The engine is getting replaced under Mazda's 100K/8yr engine warranty that applies to all RX-8s as of May 2008.
So, mod #1:
So here's what we got for upgrades...
Bad (kinda) news first:
New engine!
Almost 70K on the clock. Engine diagnosed with low compression at 68K. The power felt down since 60-ish K or so (at least since the winter was over, the gas mileage seemed to have dropped over the winter). Compression numbers were about 7.0 6.8 6.7, 7.2 7.0 5.8 (!) @ 720rpm. After the dealer ran the intake vacuum test required by Mazda, Mazda granted a replacement engine the same day. I'm waiting to put it in until early July, since I'll be out of the country.
The current effects are that the engine runs, but the idle is rough (partially due to worn engine mounts, again) and low-end power feels considerably down. Not that the rotary has gobs of low-end below 5K anyways, but in comparison to Zelse's and Greenblurr93's cars, yeah, it's down on power. The top end seems OK, but it's probably not doing all that healthy either.
Cat is OK.
I don't know why the engine lost compression. I performed regular maintenance. Did redline it once a day. My theory is that I put a ton of highway miles on the engine, ~25K of them before the emissions recall to add more oil at cruising RPMs was done. That may have done some engine damage, though the engine did check out OK at the time. In March of this year, Mazda came out w/ another reflash that added even more oil. I put plenty of cruising miles during that time, so I wonder whether Mazda didn't fix the problem entirely the first time.
I did have my compression checked at 55K and it was at spec (mostly 8.x readings at 215rpm). So somehow, I began losing compression within 10K since then. According to a Mazda tech, Mazda requires the intake vacuum test because it can diagnose a blown/bad engine even when the compression is good. Perhaps that was my case.
Actually, I'm pumped for the new motor, because I'll get my power back! (plus some fuel economy)
The engine is getting replaced under Mazda's 100K/8yr engine warranty that applies to all RX-8s as of May 2008.
So, mod #1:
As a result of the new engine, labor to install clutch & flywheel is free. So I'm getting:
Black Halo Racing stage 1 clutch, lightweight PP and lightweight flywheel (info)
The clutch is a stage 1 organic (very similar to stock), capable of 300 ft/lbs of torque. Lightweight pressure plate is almost 4lbs lighter. Lightweight flywheel w/ counterweight is 12.5lbs.
Total stock weight: 30lbs.
Weight of what I'm getting: 21.9lbs
Total savings: 8lbs
Prior to the Black Halo offerings, the best weight savings were all in the flywheel, where you got about 3lbs savings (e.g. ACT Prolite). Though the weight on all the aftermarket flywheels is concentrated towards the center, so the savings in moment of inertia were quite a bit greater.
It's pricey, but I'm looking forward to it. Plus, both the clutch and the flywheel have replaceable friction surfaces, so you can just buy replacement rings for something like $60 and there you have a new clutch.
These clutches and flywheels are made by SPEC.
Black Halo Racing stage 1 clutch, lightweight PP and lightweight flywheel (info)
The clutch is a stage 1 organic (very similar to stock), capable of 300 ft/lbs of torque. Lightweight pressure plate is almost 4lbs lighter. Lightweight flywheel w/ counterweight is 12.5lbs.
Total stock weight: 30lbs.
Weight of what I'm getting: 21.9lbs
Total savings: 8lbs
Prior to the Black Halo offerings, the best weight savings were all in the flywheel, where you got about 3lbs savings (e.g. ACT Prolite). Though the weight on all the aftermarket flywheels is concentrated towards the center, so the savings in moment of inertia were quite a bit greater.
It's pricey, but I'm looking forward to it. Plus, both the clutch and the flywheel have replaceable friction surfaces, so you can just buy replacement rings for something like $60 and there you have a new clutch.
These clutches and flywheels are made by SPEC.
Also getting new tires! My old tires have a plug in one of them, so I can't use them if I wanted to attend an HPDE event (track day).
The new tires are Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec. They are supposed to be as grippy as Falken Azenis RT-615s (and have as short of a tread life), but maintain good traction on the track after several laps. Unlike the 615's, which are reported to start getting greasy/unpredictable out on the track.
These are hanging out in the garage, waiting to put them on until after I break in my new engine.
Ignition updates:
* New plugs (stock, it was almost time at 25K)
* New ignition wires (Mazdatrix)
The new tires are Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec. They are supposed to be as grippy as Falken Azenis RT-615s (and have as short of a tread life), but maintain good traction on the track after several laps. Unlike the 615's, which are reported to start getting greasy/unpredictable out on the track.
These are hanging out in the garage, waiting to put them on until after I break in my new engine.
Ignition updates:
* New plugs (stock, it was almost time at 25K)
* New ignition wires (Mazdatrix)
Brakes! All done w/ an eye to a track day. Current brakes (HPS Performance Ceramics) are starting to get thin, plus w/ nicer tires, may not hold up on the track.
So:
* Motul RBF 600 brake fluid (pretty damn expensive, ouch, but trying it anyways)
* Fluid Transfer Products stainless steel brake lines w/ outer coating (for better winter protection)
* Cobalt Friction GT-Sport track pads (OK to drive to track with, not good for long-term street usage due to squeal and dust)
So:
* Motul RBF 600 brake fluid (pretty damn expensive, ouch, but trying it anyways)
* Fluid Transfer Products stainless steel brake lines w/ outer coating (for better winter protection)
* Cobalt Friction GT-Sport track pads (OK to drive to track with, not good for long-term street usage due to squeal and dust)
- :
- 92 & 16 Meyatas
new engine??????????????????????????????????????????????????? that's crazy!Also getting new tires! My old tires have a plug in one of them, so I can't use them if I wanted to attend an HPDE event (track day).
The new tires are Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec. They are supposed to be as grippy as Falken Azenis RT-615s (and have as short of a tread life), but maintain good traction on the track after several laps. Unlike the 615's, which are reported to start getting greasy/unpredictable out on the track.
These are hanging out in the garage, waiting to put them on until after I break in my new engine.
Ignition updates:
* New plugs (stock, it was almost time at 25K)
* New ignition wires (Mazdatrix)
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yeah.
The tech noticed oil seeping around one of the plug holes... not sure if that's related or not, but it prompted a compression check. This was after I complained earlier about an apparent lack of low-end power and the dealership performed a cat check (cat was OK). Then the dealer tech noticed that the power was definitely down in comparison to other RX-8s, so, as per Mazda, they performed a decarb procedure, which didn't help. Then they took intake vacuum readings, which were provided to Mazda to decide on whether I'm getting a new engine.
Granted, if I had to pay for the engine myself, I would be upset (ok wicked pissed), but this is warranty work, so hey...
- :
- 92 & 16 Meyatas
not to be nosey, but what trip? can i come?(naughty)
New engine arrived Thursday, car went in the shop today. The new engine is a long block, so new water pump, oil pan & oil level sensor and a new flywheel. Though I'm replacing it all with the Black Halo Racing flywheel (& clutch).
Those parts are arriving tomorrow.
Driving a minivan rental today.
Those parts are arriving tomorrow.
Driving a minivan rental today.
Nope, come to find out my car is on its 4th engine which was replaced only 2 months before I bought the car. 46K on car and 8K on engine.
