Brake pins. The Mazda calipers ride on two pins. If the removable grease covers are lost, or the grease just dries out or is lost over time, those pins rust and cause poor braking performance. Even if you aren't replacing pads, I'd recommend re-greasing at least annually.
Tune - Up / Tips & Recomendations
- Thread starter Taus-MP5
- Start date
Incorrect.
The P5 has a fuel screen inside the tank that easily clips on and off a snorkel like thing attached to the fuel pump.
I just changed mine out 2 weekends ago with this Bosch screen: http://www.carjunky.com/partstore/?N=0&Nr=AND(make:Mazda,model
rotege5,year:2003,brand:Bosch,sku:BS68021,part:Fuel+Filter)&cid=M1172623864W45e4d1f8afe06&cjBS68021fufi03prmaTo get at it, one must remove the fuel pump. Not that hard. Then there are a few clips holding some things on there that easily unclip, and the screen pops off.
It isn't a filter in the usual sense. More like a strainer.
One other thing I'd do: seafoam treatment.
Since you already changed your oil, do this on the next one:
Add a full can of Seafoam to the crankcase and let your car idle for 5-10 minutes (let it get up to operating temp). Then drain the oil. Seafoam is a great cleaner of things.
After the engine is warmed up, you can also Seafoam the intake by pouring a bit (6oz) into the vacuum line on the intake. Actually, you won't be pouring it. Use the vacuum line as a straw to suck the seafoam out of a cup or something. Go slowly as this is supposed to feed air into the cylinders and you are putting seafoam in there. The motor might hiccup and stumble a bit. Do this, then shut the motor off and hook the vacuum line back up, and continue with the oil change.
Now remove oil drain plug. Now, the engine will be hot, so while the oil is draining, go do something else while it cools down. You don't want to accidentally rub up the downpipe while you're under there. Also, the seafoam will be working on any gunk in the intake.
Valvoline 5w-30 full synthetic is good, fairly priced when on sale, and readily available. I'd opt for a better filter next time. If you're running a quality filter (STP, Mobile 1 are decent), and full synthetic, you probably don't have to change your oil as often (instead of every 3k, you can probably go every 5-6k), depending on your driving conditions.
Once you've replaced the filter and oil, go start up the car. You may or may not see a massive cloud of smoke on start up. This is the gunk the seafoam cleaned in the intake. Take the car around the block to make sure things are all tight and tidy, and you're done.
Since you already changed your oil, do this on the next one:
Add a full can of Seafoam to the crankcase and let your car idle for 5-10 minutes (let it get up to operating temp). Then drain the oil. Seafoam is a great cleaner of things.
After the engine is warmed up, you can also Seafoam the intake by pouring a bit (6oz) into the vacuum line on the intake. Actually, you won't be pouring it. Use the vacuum line as a straw to suck the seafoam out of a cup or something. Go slowly as this is supposed to feed air into the cylinders and you are putting seafoam in there. The motor might hiccup and stumble a bit. Do this, then shut the motor off and hook the vacuum line back up, and continue with the oil change.
Now remove oil drain plug. Now, the engine will be hot, so while the oil is draining, go do something else while it cools down. You don't want to accidentally rub up the downpipe while you're under there. Also, the seafoam will be working on any gunk in the intake.
Valvoline 5w-30 full synthetic is good, fairly priced when on sale, and readily available. I'd opt for a better filter next time. If you're running a quality filter (STP, Mobile 1 are decent), and full synthetic, you probably don't have to change your oil as often (instead of every 3k, you can probably go every 5-6k), depending on your driving conditions.
Once you've replaced the filter and oil, go start up the car. You may or may not see a massive cloud of smoke on start up. This is the gunk the seafoam cleaned in the intake. Take the car around the block to make sure things are all tight and tidy, and you're done.
I heard some controversial things o Seafom..ie. eating gaskets and what not.. Idk i might, not sure..
Anyways, I've done some work: using this DIY
Changed the Spark Plugs w NGK's
Changed the Ignition wires (2)
Changed the Coil packs (2)
NEW Valve Cover Gasket + RVT
PICS: This is why I decided to change the gasket:
I used some help (being my 1st time taking it apart)
seal seemed fine tho? but already had a new 1 so i installed it! (the guy from the DIY had the same experience, found it a lil funny)
looks ok
Letting it sit for a bit longer, then starting it up later tonight to test it all out: wish me luck!
Oh, and il get some pics of it finished...
Comments welcome../
Anyways, I've done some work: using this DIY
Changed the Spark Plugs w NGK's
Changed the Ignition wires (2)
Changed the Coil packs (2)
NEW Valve Cover Gasket + RVT
PICS: This is why I decided to change the gasket:
I used some help
(being my 1st time taking it apart)
seal seemed fine tho? but already had a new 1 so i installed it! (the guy from the DIY had the same experience, found it a lil funny)
looks ok
Letting it sit for a bit longer, then starting it up later tonight to test it all out: wish me luck!
Oh, and il get some pics of it finished...
Comments welcome../
Maxx Mazda
Contributor
- :
- Stock P5
Don't forget RTV on the corners of the gasket by the cam caps. Forget this and you'll be pumping oil into your timing belt cover.
" Alternator Test: (makes loud whining sound / seems louder than any other car Ive had... " this may sound odd but have you battery checked. sometimes , even though most likely it is the alternator , an old or weak battery can cause the problem you described. as far as replacement plugs , ngk. the v powers/stock are better plugs all round .
may save you a few bucks. most major parts chains will check both for you free. you can test its out put. if you have a dc voltmeter check the battery posts with the car off (should be 12.5-13vdc) and then again with it started (should be 13.5 -14vdc). this will give you a idea of the alternators output but not much about the cranking amps of the battery. one other thing , carefully check the water in the battery to make sure it is covering the plates.
re: Seafoam. No, it doesn't eat gaskets. Whoever wrote that is clueless. It's an internal fuel cleaner, not a solvent.
From the Seafoam site:
Sea Foam is not a chemical engine flush and therefore, it will not damage internal engine components or plug the oil pick up screen. Sea Foam is a pure petroleum blend with no chemical additives and is safe for long term cleaning or short term pre-service cleaning.
Sea Foam is a blend of highly refined additive oils and is compatible with all motor oils including synthetics. It is safe for all internal engine components and will not affect any seals, gaskets or o-rings. Sea Foam cleans oil deposits and varnish in your crankcase by safely/slowly re liquefying the old oil residue so contaminants may flow and be filtered. The longer Sea Foam is in your oil the cleaner your crankcase will become. When adding Sea Foam to clean oil, for long term maintenance cleaning, you must check your oil periodically for color and clarity, when your oil looks dirty change it. Because you added cleaning oil (Sea Foam) to your oil you may have to change oil before the expected service interval.
When adding Sea Foam to dirty oil before an oil change, for best results use 1 ounces per quart of oil at least 100 miles before oil is changed.
A way to test this is to leave some in a plastic cup for 20 mins, or over night if you want, and see what happens: nothing.
Do the same with other stuff (xylene, toluene, etc) and even after a short time, wherever the stuff touches is turned to goo. Oh, and toluene is essentially the fuel Formula 1 cars run since it's like 123 octane or something.
Read more here: http://www.seafoamsales.com/gasoline-engine-faqs.html
From the Seafoam site:
Sea Foam is not a chemical engine flush and therefore, it will not damage internal engine components or plug the oil pick up screen. Sea Foam is a pure petroleum blend with no chemical additives and is safe for long term cleaning or short term pre-service cleaning.
Sea Foam is a blend of highly refined additive oils and is compatible with all motor oils including synthetics. It is safe for all internal engine components and will not affect any seals, gaskets or o-rings. Sea Foam cleans oil deposits and varnish in your crankcase by safely/slowly re liquefying the old oil residue so contaminants may flow and be filtered. The longer Sea Foam is in your oil the cleaner your crankcase will become. When adding Sea Foam to clean oil, for long term maintenance cleaning, you must check your oil periodically for color and clarity, when your oil looks dirty change it. Because you added cleaning oil (Sea Foam) to your oil you may have to change oil before the expected service interval.
When adding Sea Foam to dirty oil before an oil change, for best results use 1 ounces per quart of oil at least 100 miles before oil is changed.
A way to test this is to leave some in a plastic cup for 20 mins, or over night if you want, and see what happens: nothing.
Do the same with other stuff (xylene, toluene, etc) and even after a short time, wherever the stuff touches is turned to goo. Oh, and toluene is essentially the fuel Formula 1 cars run since it's like 123 octane or something.
Read more here: http://www.seafoamsales.com/gasoline-engine-faqs.html
There IS a paper fuel filter. It's in the big plastic body that surrounds the fuel pump. I'm not sure what the recommended replacement frequency is(?) I did mine when the plastic failed and started leaking gas all over. The 8 screws holding this in can be a b**** tho. due to rust.
The reason i know of it is: becaue i did about a 2 week (or more) study (& search) on what people thought i should use for gear-oil (on my mk3 jetta) and i read through reviews that Penzoil Synchromesh an redline mt series are both great... Basically if the mp5 has 'yellow metals' such as brass,t these would be good if using GL4 75w-90.
Anyways, does the mp5 also require GL4 75w-90.? So i make sure..
ps) heres the thread i had
Anyways, does the mp5 also require GL4 75w-90.? So i make sure..
ps) heres the thread i had
then il change it later..i have other more important things first, like a fresh gearbox/fluid job
