Tune - Up / Tips & Recomendations

Taus-MP5

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2002 Mazda Protege`5
Hey guys, I recently bought my first Protege5 and now i need to do a tune-up. I want to do everything myself, but im being lazy with this due to the awesome weather and school.

Anyways i plan on tackling:

*Engine Oil
*Oil Filter
*Sparks/Wires
*Fuel Filter
*Air Filter (getting CAI soon, so nvm)
*Check all belts
*Maybe Radiator Flush

** Service: Check Suspension (hearing clunk in rear, and stiff ass)
** Alternator Test: (makes loud whining sound / seems louder than any other car ive had...

SO, I'm asking for Recommendations on what type of oil,filter, spark-plugs,wires, (& w/e you may offer) that i should consider using.

Thanks in advance!!

[ps] I figured it would be a good thread for someone else in my position, looking to do all the above usual tune-up
 
For plugs and wires just use stock NGK replacement parts...they seem to work the best. Off the top of my head I forget the exact spark plug to use but you can ask at your local auto parts store.

For oil, do you intend to use dino or go synthetic? I use 10w30 all year round with no issues and figure the synthetic at this point isn't worth it (143K)...as for the filter use the 626 v6 filter. This will allow you to add a full 4qts of oil per change. I use Bosch and the part # is 3323...if you prefer another brand just ask at your local auto parts store.
 
Alright, i heard NGK works fine too. Should i get Iridium's?

and im still not sure on either 5w30 or 10w30

oh, and will using the M626 filter make a difference? Wouldnt it be better to use specified ones?

thanks
 
Iridiums are up to you...from what I've read others post, they are a waste....guess it's subjective to your opinion....

Maybe a 5w30 in the winter and 10w30 in the summer? I live in NE PA and have had no issues running the 10w30 all year round.

Only diff. the 626 filter makes is that it is a wee bit larger allowing you to add a full 4qts vs. IIRC 3.7qts. As long as you use one specified for the 626 v6 you will be just fine.....it fits just the same as a P5 replacement filter.
 
I use 5W-30 year round, there's really no reason not to.

For plugs, check out the jdm-spec NGKs (ZFR5F-11 iirc). I've been using them since the summer and I'm happy with them, they offer smoother acceleration over the normal NGKs (and they cost the same).
 
thanks. now about the wires/ coil pack?

Orileys and AUtozone seem to have them separate, the 2 wires and the coilpacks. I was thinking to replace the sparks first, and get the wiring/packs after... to see if i really need em. ( I had a hard start this morning, turned the key and it cranked over to 2k, and rpm lowered and died. So i started it again and held the gas at 3k for 5 sec, and then it was idiling and didnt die)
 
Do you know when the packs were last changed? I'd just buy them and install them with the plugs...start fresh.
 
Check the air intake tube for cracks. Remove it (it's the accordion looking tube attached to the filter box) and inspect it carefully. If there are little cracks replace it to save yourself from annoying headaches in the future (bad idle/stalling).
 
Fuel filter is non-serviceable and does not need to be replaced. Scratch that one from your list.
 
alright, i read a similar post on TMF about the fuel filter.

Anyways i just did the oil / filter and used Fram oil filter with 5w30 Mobil 1 synthetic..cold weather purposes.

And, I dont think the Intake system has a crack... But il probably be making or buying a CAI soon anyways (well not that soon, but soon)
 
Check the brake fluid and brake pads.

You could also get some lithium grease and grease the sway bar bushings.
 
il do that either today or tomorrow, and i might change the valve cover gasket too.. has a bit of oil around the mid bolt (facing you).
 
i tightened all of them and cleaned it...still seamed to leak after..so i'm hoping its just a bad gasket, so its nothing major
 
I checked and the one on the far right corner was a bit loose, but the rest were ok. Either way, I'm going to change the valve cover gasket soon..
 
my 2c: get a 2nd air filter for your intake. this will allow you to drive around while the 1st one is out to clean. it usually takes overnight or longer for the air filter to dry completely. i learned this the hard way realizing early next morning my air filter was still wet and i need to get on the road.

also consider using a throttle body cleaner on the TB and valve. spray a good amount on the hinges of the valve and around the opening and let it sit. if you have heavy carbon build up you can take an old toothbrush and gently scrub. put everything back together and start the car. it may hesitate the first few tries but it'll turn on eventually. let it run for a few minutes. i found this noticeably smoothed out some rough idle and acceleration.

a good wash and a wax always makes you feel better about your car!
 
Thanks for the tip! Ill keep those in mind..and I'm guessing the tb cleaner can be picked up at a local car shop?( Ie autozone)
 
yup, i got one in a can that said you could spray it upside down. helps if you leave everything as is, you can get the straw in any tight squeezes and hold the can any way you want.
 
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