Triple Gauge Install!!!

Welp, EVERY car reads the same way, thats why i told those gauges are a light show. You need a WIDEBAND if you want an accurate reading.

dude. i read your other 5 posts. they all say the same thing. buy a wideband. i will. thank you very much mom. love you. what im saying is if the narrow band doesnt show a light show the wideband gauge is only going to show the numbers....i have that on my apexi tt. i dont need a wideband. i need this "light show" to work. it fills the hole of a gauge pod i would have if i didnt have it. so....my question....do they sell a milli amp to voltage converter?
 
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I think (could be a little off) but there sorta two different things volts is electrical pressure and and amps is a number you get after you take the electrical pressure (volts) and divide the amount of current going trough the wire(watts) gives you amps. so there is nothing to convert really. I think maybe he was saying the amount of milliamps is not enough to give a reading on the a/f guage if it is on putting out 10 milliamps and the guage requires 20 milliamps to work properly the only thing you can do is amplifie the signal. not sure how you would do that. but ask some of the people on this forum how they install there guage becouse I haven't read any one have problems so it might be something might not be right on your install.
 
I think (could be a little off) but there sorta two different things volts is electrical pressure and and amps is a number you get after you take the electrical pressure (volts) and divide the amount of current going trough the wire(watts) gives you amps. so there is nothing to convert really. I think maybe he was saying the amount of milliamps is not enough to give a reading on the a/f guage if it is on putting out 10 milliamps and the guage requires 20 milliamps to work properly the only thing you can do is amplifie the signal. not sure how you would do that. but ask some of the people on this forum how they install there guage becouse I haven't read any one have problems so it might be something might not be right on your install.

In simple terms

Volts is the measurement of electricity- difference in potential from live to neutral/ground or (+) to (-).

Amps is the unit of current which is the measurement of flow.

Different devices such as transmitters etc can be purchased with different outputs such as 0-5v or 4-20mA or a pulse signal for example. ( I am not a mechanic but these are common values used in industry worldwide)

I believe that a common setup for a O2 sensor would be 0-1v.
lean reading would be up to about .25v, normal reading would be .25 to .75v and rich is .75 to 1v

When your car is running it is constantly changing the fuel ratio and you will see your gauge move up and down, this is normal.

I have no idea what the output of the MS3 O2 sensor is but my guess would be 0-1V. I would suggest getting the part number and contacting the manufacture for a second opinion. if it is bosch then you may find information on their website.

I have purchased a narrow band a/f gauge myself for no other reason than I only really wanted 2 gauges and picked a third to fill the hole. It is my intention to install an additional O2 sensor so as not to interfere with the existing electronics because I dont want the same hassle that you are currently experiencing. If the manufacturer of the gauges I purchased ever make a wide band that matches mine, then the wiring will be already there.

All this typing and I havent helped you any, sorry.
 
In simple terms

I have purchased a narrow band a/f gauge myself for no other reason than I only really wanted 2 gauges and picked a third to fill the hole. It is my intention to install an additional O2 sensor so as not to interfere with the existing electronics because I dont want the same hassle that you are currently experiencing. If the manufacturer of the gauges I purchased ever make a wide band that matches mine, then the wiring will be already there.

All this typing and I havent helped you any, sorry.

This is my exact scenario. I have the same deal with your whole logic about the narrow band gauge. when i hooked up my apexi tt and ran the wire to the o2 sensor i got an o2 readout but i still am not getting the a/f readout. I JUST DONT GET IT! why would it give me an o2 readout but no a/f????????!!!!!!!!


I bet if i lit the car on fire the gauge would stay intact and run f-ed up magically. typical.
 
I didn't read all the posts because its late and I'm lazy but...Is there a chance that the first sensor in the dp is a wideband sensor already. They have started using wide bands for better fuel accuracy/econemy on some cars, I'm not sure if ours is one of them. If it is, the narrow band gauge will not work hense your gimpy light show. If you must use a narrow band I used a weld in bung and a single wire o2 sensor the last time I had a narrow band gauge and for 32 bucks it worked well. Only problem with that is to add it in before your cats on the dp which is impossible on a ms3.
 
Send your gauge to these guys to have it recalibrated.

http://www.machv.com/cybairgaug.html

I have one and you will have one LED that comes on to measure approx ratio... Its not even close, but hell.. you want to fill the hole.


Still isnt going to make a difference and your ratio isnt going to be accurate, so i dont know why youre throwing up a tissy fit. Next time you want to smart off, dont ask for help.
 
Send your gauge to these guys to have it recalibrated.

http://www.machv.com/cybairgaug.html

I have one and you will have one LED that comes on to measure approx ratio... Its not even close, but hell.. you want to fill the hole.


Still isnt going to make a difference and your ratio isnt going to be accurate, so i dont know why youre throwing up a tissy fit. Next time you want to smart off, dont ask for help.

didnt mean to be a b****, but i was getting annoyed with the whole wideband thing. sorry.

i have no point for another gauge at this moment in time. like i said, the narrowband isnt working. thats not the point though. Even though the narrow band isnt working, neither is my wideband a/f readout on my turbotimer. my O2 readout runs approx between 2.20 and 3.10, but when i go to my a/f readout option on the tt, it just says -------. its not getting a signal or something. i just dont understand why i would be getting an O2 readout but no a/f readout.

now, that might also be the reason for my a/f gauge giving me the "gimpy light show." if my wideband readout isnt working on my tt, then thats probably why my a/f gauge isnt working.

if nobody has any solutions im just going to try to tap into the dp when i get my new exhaust and put in another O2 sensor just for my gauge and tt. Im cutting the exhaust at the turbo basically and putting in a 3", with only 1 pypes mini cat, and a megan muffler, exhaust. wide open airflow, plenty of areas for me to put a new O2. like i said, no solutions, ill just make a solution. haha.

But id rather just make this work.
 
if nobody has any solutions im just going to try to tap into the dp when i get my new exhaust and put in another O2 sensor just for my gauge and tt. Im cutting the exhaust at the turbo basically and putting in a 3", with only 1 pypes mini cat, and a megan muffler, exhaust. wide open airflow, plenty of areas for me to put a new O2. like i said, no solutions, ill just make a solution. haha.

But id rather just make this work.

Now your talking, if you do that you may as well put in the bung for an EGT gauge at the same time (not the optimum place but a good compromise), you dont have to use it but it will always be there and the cost is minimal if you do it all at the same time.
 
Now your talking, if you do that you may as well put in the bung for an EGT gauge at the same time (not the optimum place but a good compromise), you dont have to use it but it will always be there and the cost is minimal if you do it all at the same time.

i found a spot to install my EGT. Take off the heat shield at the back of the motor... Plenty of areas to tap it right there. You dont want it downstream of the manifold.
 
i found a spot to install my EGT. Take off the heat shield at the back of the motor... Plenty of areas to tap it right there. You dont want it downstream of the manifold.

yea im going to put it as high up as i can without it being a pain in the ass. couple weeks. ill post some pics and all that jazz when its all done. dont get your hopes up for asap because it all depends on my bills, you know how it goes. bills bills bills, extra money, CAR!!!! bills bills bills.
 
i found a spot to install my EGT. Take off the heat shield at the back of the motor... Plenty of areas to tap it right there. You dont want it downstream of the manifold.

Yeah, thats why i used the word compromise. Personally i dont want to drill my manifold and since i bought a new down pipe i had the bungs installed at the top of it.
 
still waiting for the din adapter to install the gauges. not sure if you wanted pics of that or this.
 

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still waiting for the din adapter to install the gauges. not sure if you wanted pics of that or this.

see i tapped into that garbage and it gave me only half the reading i needed. but yea i do plan on putting another sensor in there too. hopefully a few more weeks...(yes)
 
Yeah, thats why i used the word compromise. Personally i dont want to drill my manifold and since i bought a new down pipe i had the bungs installed at the top of it.


I know the bung for the EGT is much smaller than for O2, so you may want to double check that before installing that.
 

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