Tranny issues...PLEASE HELP.

Yes, DO NOT pull all the gears and shafts out. Just lift them up enough to pull the diff out - it will come right out. Though I had to knock out the pin on one of the shift forks in order to get this play (I think it was necessary at the time, but maybe there is a different way). Anyhow, it isn't tough to do either way.

As I said, take a lot of pictures during the process of all things so that you can put them back together, but it isn't the easiest process and you can screw stuff up. Be sure to make sure it shifts correctly before you put it back in too. . .because that would really suck.
 
Little Beavis said:
Yes, DO NOT pull all the gears and shafts out. Just lift them up enough to pull the diff out - it will come right out. Though I had to knock out the pin on one of the shift forks in order to get this play (I think it was necessary at the time, but maybe there is a different way). Anyhow, it isn't tough to do either way.

As I said, take a lot of pictures during the process of all things so that you can put them back together, but it isn't the easiest process and you can screw stuff up. Be sure to make sure it shifts correctly before you put it back in too. . .because that would really suck.
how do you check if it is to shift correctly before it's back in?
 
Read this thread 5 times over before you commit to this project :
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67599

Here's the glorified MSPaint speedo gear picture to explain how it sits in the transmission.

2cmnpcx.jpg


The MSP transmission looks the same minus the pink speedo gear and the speed sensor.


The trans removal is straight foward.

After that, all that has to be removed are :
-a cap
-a pin
-2 locking nuts (which will have to be replaced)
-reverse gears
-spring + ball
-another pin
-all gears at once
-differential

Then to install the speedo gear, you'll have to:
-remove the bearing
-shave/dremel the edges on the pinkspeedo gear
-slide the pink speedo gear on
-press on the bearing (it would better if replaced with a new one)

Then put the white speed sensor gear in place
and reinstall in reverse.

Take your time and take 1000 pics of the process at every possible angle.
 
boostdprotegelx said:
how do you check if it is to shift correctly before it's back in?
you'll be able to see the shift linkages in the right place..

And you'll be able to move the main shift linkage to change gear if you put a screwdriver in it.

Make sure the red is inside the yellow
And that the blue is in that direction.

30crj2o.jpg
 
boostdprotegelx said:
how do you check if it is to shift correctly before it's back in?

Six gears. . .put a screwdriver through the shift bushing on the back of the trans, push in and out for 2 gears. Turn screwdriver clockwise and push in and out for other two gears. Then turn screwdriver counter clockwise and push in and out for the last two gears. They will "clunk" in place (this is a Mazda afterall), so you can tell if they all work.
 
Little Beavis said:
Six gears. . .put a screwdriver through the shift bushing on the back of the trans, push in and out for 2 gears. Turn screwdriver clockwise and push in and out for other two gears. Then turn screwdriver counter clockwise and push in and out for the last two gears. They will "clunk" in place (this is a Mazda afterall), so you can tell if they all work.
that part of it seems like a b****...dammit.
 
Anybody still checking this thread? I'm doing the atx-mtx conversion right now, and i had some questions.

The donor car was an abs car and mine is not. So i know i will need to add the speedo sensor. The pink gear is already in the tranny, i looked. Will i be able to use the abs cars computer, or will i need to track down a non abs mtx computer?

Also the harness i got does not have the plug for the speedo sensor. So i will need to add it too. would it just go to the place on the ecu where the ABS sends its speed signal?

I see that the atx and the mtx both use pin 58 for their speed sensors. The diagram does not say where the ABS goes, so i assume its also pin 58? Should i just keep my harness, and change the plug out so that it will plug into the mtx speedo sensor?

Also i heard than you can keep the atx ECU and just change/add the plugs for the nuetral switch (its pin 64 on both) and the speed sensors (pin 58 on both). Is that true?

Lastly why is peoples reverse lights not working? I cannot find a difference in the ecu wiring for that.

Any help would be greatly apreciated!
 
the ECU will be fine
you're better off finding a non-ABS harness as there's a bunch of differences that'll make it tough for you to convert over since you're asking these questions to begin with
 
TheMAN said:
the ECU will be fine
you're better off finding a non-ABS harness as there's a bunch of differences that'll make it tough for you to convert over since you're asking these questions to begin with

When you say the ecu will be fine. you mean the new mtx ABS one i got?
As far as the harness, if i can find a non abs one, it would be easier. But i dont mind wiring things up. So if i can find out whats different, which appears to be just the speedo. I'll just change it.

Can someone please look at the clutch pedal, and tell me where the grey switch on the front of the assy goes too? The back one on the side of the assy, goes to a white plug, with rather thick wires that is already in the exhisting harness.

If you click on the blue link in my sig, i have another thread started with issues, if you can offer any help.
 
there is no difference on the ECU between the ABS and non-ABS cars
a manual ECU is a manual ECU

dude, you don't know what you're getting into
you're already asking about what wire goes where... if you start ******* with this some more you're going to be asking even more questions about other wires

you already spent money on buying all this crap for your car, save yourself time and MONEY by buying the wiring diagrams book!
 
TheMAN said:
there is no difference on the ECU between the ABS and non-ABS cars
a manual ECU is a manual ECU
Thats good. I didnt think there was but I'm just making sure of everything.
TheMAN said:
dude, you don't know what you're getting into
you're already asking about what wire goes where... if you start ******* with this some more you're going to be asking even more questions about other wires
I've built my entire turbo from from scratch, put all of the electronics in by myself, done all of the dyno tuning. I've turboed my friends s-10, and my bike along with 2 others. I'm the maintenance director for a rather large oil refinery, and a licensed electrician that mainly specializes in systems and controls. I dont need you flaming. Nobody can possibly know everything, thats what this forum is for, to ask others for their combined knowledge. I do know what i was getting into. I've done research on this for over 2 yrs, ever since i put the turbo in. The only wrench thrown in the mix was the donor car being ABS. And that really is not a big deal. There have been several others that have done this swap, with less knowledge and experience than me and been succesfull. So i'm not worried. I'm just over cautious and would like as much input as i can from others that may know things i do not.
TheMAN said:
you already spent money on buying all this crap for your car, save yourself time and MONEY by buying the wiring diagrams book!
just downloaded the wiring and complete parts diagram from ugly.net
 
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kyle's protege5 said:
Lastly why is peoples reverse lights not working? I cannot find a difference in the ecu wiring for that.

The reverse lights are wired through the roof harness, not the dash harness-- that's why. Your roof harness is incompatible with the sender on the new tranny. You'll need to purchase the respective roof harness and swap it out, or put your reverse lights on a lighted SPST switch.
 
I've been through your exact situation, I've completely swapped the complete 03 msp power and drivetrain over into the my formerly 1999 1.8, mtx. All the bulls*** and expenses involved in converting the trannys from the donor originally equiped with ABS, to one that measures speed readings internally all for a functioning instrument cluster is not worth it in my opinion. Get an ADL like me and be done with it.
 
kyle's protege5 said:
Thats good. I didnt think there was but I'm just making sure of everything.

I've built my entire turbo from from scratch, put all of the electronics in by myself, done all of the dyno tuning. I've turboed my friends s-10, and my bike along with 2 others. I'm the maintenance director for a rather large oil refinery, and a licensed electrician that mainly specializes in systems and controls. I dont need you flaming. Nobody can possibly know everything, thats what this forum is for, to ask others for their combined knowledge. I do know what i was getting into. I've done research on this for over 2 yrs, ever since i put the turbo in. The only wrench thrown in the mix was the donor car being ABS. And that really is not a big deal. There have been several others that have done this swap, with less knowledge and experience than me and been succesfull. So i'm not worried. I'm just over cautious and would like as much input as i can from others that may know things i do not.

just downloaded the wiring and complete parts diagram from ugly.net


all the "wiring diagrams" you find online to download are incomplete and DO NOT show all the systems that you will need to look at to properly wire up what you need

that's good you're an electrician, but don't ever give me that "I've built an engine, built a turbo car, etc"... turning wrenches and slapping parts together is completely different from electronics! there's many people here who are decent at doing that but suck at electronics

anyhow, there's already enough differences between the manual harness from the auto harness that it'll take a fair amount of time to convert over... it's not impossible but it's not a walk in the park... it's definately time consuming... but since you got ABS in the mix, it's going to be one big headache

and I do hope your P5 does not have activematic... if you do like gimpo2 did, then you're in for a bigger mess


if any of you think this s*** is bad, try ******* with all the new school "fordazdas" (the 3, 5, 6, etc)... there's even more electronic bulls*** and wiring differences that basically makes it impossible to convert or change anything
 

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