Tools and tips for 30K maintenance?

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2006 Tungsten Grey Mazda6 GT I4
My 30K (or rather, 48K since I'm Canadian) is due and I'm planning to do the following myself:

Change engine oil
Oil filter
Air filter
Spark Plugs

Is there anything else? And considering the fact that I have never done any of these and will pretty much be going purely by the manual and whatever guides I can find on google, is there any of them I should just get a shop/dealer to do?

As for the second part of my question, what tools do I need for these tasks other than the standard household tools (ie screwdrivers, standard wrenches)? I understand that I need a torque wrench for the spark plugs, is there a specific size I need? Also the manual says there is a specific tool for removing/installing the oil filter. What is it?

Thanks...
 
all can be easily doen by yourself. Along with your list id change your tranny fluid and maybe flush the radiator.

tools:

ramps or jackstands
19mm socket for the oil drain plug
23mm for the tranny drain plug and the fill hole
spark plug socket (5/8ths ?), rachet extension
might pick up a oil filter grip for your rachet

radiator plug on mine was just a plastic plug with easy turn tab on it.

to refill radiator, fill up through the overflow resevoir to full line, run car for a few minutes check resevoir line on overflow tank and top it off.
 
the oil filter thing is bogus. just pick up one of those metal strap type wrenches. the ones that are in the shape of a "p". in order to make removing the filter easy as pie in the future buy K&N filters. they have a socket fitting on the end. it takes a 1in socket to get them off.
 
30K miles is also time to swap the tranny fluid. Manual transimisson oil needs a 23mm socket to get the drain plug off of the transmission, and you will need a flexible filler tube to refill it up. 3 quarts of Amsoil 75w-90 works great for me. the drain plug is surrounded by metal fins on the trans that blocks channel locks from grabbing it.

As far as auto trans, I know this was discussed recently, might wanna search around.
 
RaiderMP5 said:
30K miles is also time to swap the tranny fluid. Manual transimisson oil needs a 23mm socket to get the drain plug off of the transmission, and you will need a flexible filler tube to refill it up. 3 quarts of Amsoil 75w-90 works great for me. the drain plug is surrounded by metal fins on the trans that blocks channel locks from grabbing it.

As far as auto trans, I know this was discussed recently, might wanna search around.

I thought manual tranny fluid doesnt have to be changed for at least 60k miles
 
What weight would you recommend for oil? I live in Vancouver where it's commonly -5 to 5 degrees celcius in the winter, usually on the plus side of freezing.

Also is there any particular air filter that's good or are they all fine?

And what kind of lubricant can I use for the locks and hinges?
 
clicknext said:
What weight would you recommend for oil? I live in Vancouver where it's commonly -5 to 5 degrees celcius in the winter, usually on the plus side of freezing.

Also is there any particular air filter that's good or are they all fine?

And what kind of lubricant can I use for the locks and hinges?

Go with a K&N air filter, that way you never have to buy another air filter again. Just get the cleaner and take it out and clean it every oil change.
 
Well I changed the oil/filter today, and it went okay I guess. First time, though so I was unfamiliar with everything and took a full two hours. The filter had instructions to tighten a full turn after it made contact, but I simply could not get the filter wrench to grab onto it, so I had to just hand tighten it, to about 3/4-4/5 turn was about as far as it went. But some people recommended that anyway so I figured it'd be fine. I added pretty much exactly 3.5 L, as the manual stated, but afterwards, after having run the engine for a while, the oil was above the F line on the dipstick. Should it have me worried?
 
I'm doing the spark plugs and one of the rubber boots are stuck on. I've tried twisting, and really applied more force than I was comfortable with on the rather fragile looking thing but it just won't come off. All the others just popped off (with a rather nice popping sound) without too much effort. Any tips for this?
 
umm...

dang.. mine all came off nicely. got v-powers inthere, just did my oil change and put in some royal purple with a k&n oil filter.
 
the first time it took a lot of tugging and pulling at angles on the boot. Eventually, it popped off like it was no big deal.
 
Well I finally got it done. I wiggled the stubborn boot, and it seperated from the wire. At that point I thought "aahh crap..." but then I looked more carefully, and the inner wire part was all intact, just came off of the rubber boot, so I went ahead and put the new ones in, and it was fine afterwards.

I attached a picture of one of the old plugs. Look normal to you?

The new ones I put in are BKR6E-11, instead of the BKR5E-11 that were in there. Both are listed in the manual, the 6E is apparently colder on the heat range. Well hopefully it either makes no difference or gives better fuel economy. :D
 

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that's about how mine looked arnd 38-39K when I changed them (soon after I got the car)
 
Question... What's the best way to get the transmission fluid into the transmission? It goes into the hole where you stick your finger to test the level, right?...
 
put 3 quarts in with a flexible oil funnel. I got one at Advance Auto Parts for $5. Was a typical funnel with a clear poly hose that I was able to fit into the hole. Put it in where the top nut is, towards the front of the car.
 
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