The "What mods for a daily driven MSP?" Guide Thread

thanks for the advice! i know the fmic gives u more power and i would definitely keep my grill for the "sleeper" look. protegegarage has hardpipes and smic for 750 (fmic for cheaper?) if i installed it myself and intstallation seems to be just removing the front bumper but tools could be an issue. i might have it done for me. the o2 sensor and boost gauge are necessary? id probablly get a mount then too. are new spark plugs required to run 9psi? if im gonna get a mbc a gauge and o2 sensor i better be runnin 9psi
 
thanks for the advice! i know the fmic gives u more power and i would definitely keep my grill for the "sleeper" look. protegegarage has hardpipes and smic for 750 (fmic for cheaper?) if i installed it myself and intstallation seems to be just removing the front bumper but tools could be an issue. i might have it done for me. the o2 sensor and boost gauge are necessary? id probablly get a mount then too. are new spark plugs required to run 9psi? if im gonna get a mbc a gauge and o2 sensor i better be runnin 9psi

yes, if your gonna spend the money on all the mods for 9psi, just spend the $10-12 for 1 step colder spark plugs.... definitely worth it
 
ya mine as well, I have the step colder plugs and I run 8psi in the colder months and 10 psi(it's around 9.7-10psi) during the summer, and don't up the boost until you have everything else and the ssafc/wideband O2 sensor..(and ya I would start out at 8psi in the beginning, and once you figure out how to tune the car with the ssafc and get more comfortable with it, go to 9psi, and if you really know how to work with the tune and don't mind pushing the limits and if need be buying another block you could do 10psi, but I would say that 9psi is very close to 10psi and your "safer" overall, so 9 would be a good number.

and yes for $750 you can get a FMIC for much much cheaper, I have been looking around lately, and if you order your own pipes, there is ebay for the Rx kit or something like that (look on wagonbacker9's sig or here lol http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123759220) and the ebay kit he ordered is generally this one (read the thread I just posted first so you understand what your ordering) http://motors.shop.ebay.com/cxracing/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=

and then this is the place where you can get some good random parts if you need them left over http://www.siliconeintakes.com/

and really if you take the time to map out how you want your kit to run, don't mind making some smalll adjustments to the kit (as you can see in the thread, the hot pipe side has bad routing, if you take your bumper off you can make it work a little better, there are better routes, and you shouldn't need to take out your windshield washer reservoir either to make it work, but that is the route I plan on taking sometime in the near future once I get an actual job and am outa school.. I'll be saving up to get some forged internals/gt28rs/FMIC kit and a steedspeed exhaust mani, and prob. an upgraded radiator/slimfans and prob. an upgraded oil cooler... hmm and mine as well go for some upgrades gears and welded lsd in the tranny and stage 2 clutch lol although I was planning on waiting till my clutch went but if/when I do the engine rebuild, I mine as well do the clutch and tranny stuff too..

but anys that's my route, and can't wait till I get the money lol, but after the amount of money I spent on the hardpipes and smic (which I love don't get me wrong, I just have bigger plans now) the FMIC now would be much much cheaper (the WeaponR kit you NEED to replace the couplers and clamps with T bolt clamps, so for me, I ordered the vibrant couplers which was about $80-100 extra for me then the T bolt clamps for the intake and hardpipes was another $60 or so for me, so that is way over the amount for pipes just for the weaponR kit, other than that I love it, the couplers and clamps it comes with though is s***, don't even drive with them on.. at all, that is how I fried my O2 sensor (the hotpipe coupler blew off and overheated/literally fried my primary O2 sensor, while driving up the road after the install....)


so overall, if you don't mind to customize your ride a little.. and don't worry about the tools, I highly recommend starting to collect some because if you have them and can work on your car yourself, you will save lots and lots of money in the long run, this car needs that kind of attention generally, and I really don't like other people working on my car after I started to do my own work and seeing that usually the mechanics take shortcuts a lot.. which I don't blame them, it's not their car...they just need money.

so overall, get the FMIC, do it yourself, you won't regret it, at least not after you have it all done if you do it right... you might get frustrated but that happens with anything you install (even with my smic/hardpipe kit install, things are a pain to start putting into the stock car, like those damn plastic pipes lol) then get yourself a wideband O2 sensor and SSAFC and you can order the Jpipe section too (I HIGHLY recommend saving the money up, and ordering as much as you can from PG at once, if you pm ken and talk to him BEFORE you order it, he will almost always cut you a good deal, I wish I had known this instead of just ordering everything right away lol) at least for the SSAFC v2/O2 sensor, get the AEM one/boost gauge, the a pillar gauge pod if you want that(I like mine a lot), and the midpipe section.. the FMIC order/make yourself

hopefully that should pretty much give you a good headstart on anything and kinda lay it out for you, and like I said if you take the time and do it right your won't regret it in the end, get the tools, you will learn quickly, and unless you have a buddy that is planning on helping you install, the money you'll pay for someone else to have it done, could just have been used to buy yourself a good set of tools..

and as far as I am on the topic of tools, my dad bought me my tool set so I didn't use all of his since his are also really unorganized, but also the jack stands and jack, they are pretty cheap these days, but I also use 2 um.. I think they are like 8"X8" beams that I had left over and cut them into 1ft logs and nailed 2 together to form a sturdy "jack stand" I use those when I need all 4 sides up, but I also use the 2 jack stands on either corner just for tripple/extra safety lol although I don't anticipate solid wood beams to crumble anytime soon lol

well that's all for now lol, I like to be thorough
 
yeah it seems like the fmic as the first project would be the way to go. im probably going to wait another month to start bc im a student as well and need that steady summer's job paycheck. however, im reading an article where they put a turboback exhaust and fmic in an evo and it only gained about 10 whp before a "tune" do msps require this "tune" they speak of?
 
yeah it seems like the fmic as the first project would be the way to go. im probably going to wait another month to start bc im a student as well and need that steady summer's job paycheck. however, im reading an article where they put a turboback exhaust and fmic in an evo and it only gained about 10 whp before a "tune" do msps require this "tune" they speak of?

every car needs a tune. well when you install mod the car needs to be tuned for that mod. unless u wanna keep runnin 10:1 afrs then ya you need one.
 
yeah it seems like the fmic as the first project would be the way to go. im probably going to wait another month to start bc im a student as well and need that steady summer's job paycheck. however, im reading an article where they put a turboback exhaust and fmic in an evo and it only gained about 10 whp before a "tune" do msps require this "tune" they speak of?

ya you don't really NEED it, but youll bog down a lot until you get the ssafc, that is why you should get that after you get the boost gauge/ehaust/fmic, or even before it's up to you, but that stock IC blows as$.

even with mine, I have the ssafc with stock super map and even when it is close to 80 degrees out I'm hitting fuel cut every time, because the mods let much cooler air, and more air in general, makes the system run better.. but it needs a tune badly
 
thanks a bunch.. im going to get started in about a month ill definately keep you guys updated
 
yeah it seems like the fmic as the first project would be the way to go. im probably going to wait another month to start bc im a student as well and need that steady summer's job paycheck. however, im reading an article where they put a turboback exhaust and fmic in an evo and it only gained about 10 whp before a "tune" do msps require this "tune" they speak of?

Just keep in mind, any stock tune on any normal car like ours is tuned for daily driving and fuel economy. So you could add any number of power adding mods, but they won't show their full potential until you get the fuel/air where its supposed to be (timing too but for low boost this cars timing is ok). Anytime you make a change to how the car breathe's (takes in air), you usually will have to adjust the tune. The MSP runs about 9.0-9.2 when it hits boost (actually a lil later cause of the stock tune but...) so its dumping a ton of fuel, so it will feel bogged down. the aim of tuning is to give you the best fuel to air mixture for the setup of your car. You want to keep tunes balanced between power and safety. Sometimes that extra 5hp isnt worth the chance of detonation. As the guide says 11.5 is pretty safe and still gives good power. 12 is the "optimal" afr but with our cars id rather be safe than sorry cause its not exactly build from the ground up with good parts. It is still a protege.
 
Hey I'm new to the fourms and i'm 14 so i'm just trying to learn what i can about cars and what i should get. When your talking about the SMIC upgrade, you mention FMIC. What does FMIC and SMIC stand for and whats the difference? Also when your talking about the intake and you say build a box or a shield around it. Do you mean a heat shield? or some thing of that sort.
 
Hey I'm new to the fourms and i'm 14 so i'm just trying to learn what i can about cars and what i should get. When your talking about the SMIC upgrade, you mention FMIC. What does FMIC and SMIC stand for and whats the difference? Also when your talking about the intake and you say build a box or a shield around it. Do you mean a heat shield? or some thing of that sort.

FMIC = Front Mount InterCooler
SMIC = Side Mount InterCooler(stock MSP location nex to the rad)

Edit: you should take a look at the sticky threads located here

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=48
 
Hey I'm new to the fourms and i'm 14 so i'm just trying to learn what i can about cars and what i should get. When your talking about the SMIC upgrade, you mention FMIC. What does FMIC and SMIC stand for and whats the difference? Also when your talking about the intake and you say build a box or a shield around it. Do you mean a heat shield? or some thing of that sort.

where in houston are you from?
 
Okay so I have everything on the list of what to do to the MSP except a wideband gauge, boost controller, and SSAFC... I am guessing that with everything else done the ssafc and boost controller could make a huge improvement... So, first of all is it necessary to have a wideband gauge if I will be bringing car to shop to have it tuned or if I just set it to Super stock map? Next, I do have a manual boost controller will this work to keep the car set at a steady 9 psi I am looking for? And lastly where do I buy the ssafc? I tried their website, but there are 9 different versions to pick from and then some types of controllers... What exactly do I need. And also how much should I be planning on spending to have my msp tuned w/ the ssafc? Thanks in advance I could really use some help!!! And if anyone has any idea how many whp will I have after these last few additions?
 
it is necessary to have a wideband when it comes to tuning and honestly, I wouldn't drive without one in a boosted car. You will be ok with the super stockmap, but you should still get a wideband gauge installed. A boost controller will work but I strongly suggest getting the wideband and a boost gauge if you don't have one already before you even think about upping the boost. As far as going to a shop, most dyno shops will provide a wideband sensor to hook onto the exhaust but it is still wise to get a wideband. Tuning prices vary depending on the shop and their rates, they can range from $85-$300. You can order the SSAFC from protege garage. They sell the exact AFC you need for your protege. They sell two different versions, air/fuel controller and a fuel/timing controller. The air/fuel controller is the one you want.

Here is a link to the SSAFC: http://protegegarage.com/866-splitsecond-air-fuel-controller-protege-and-mazdaspeed-protege.html

As far as HP numbers, that all depends on your mods.
 
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