I was thinking about doing this. Theres a pretty good DIY tutorial up.
Where do you have your foglight ballasts mounted, Patrick?
The Ohio Random Thread... aka We Should Probably Be Working
- Thread starter THE Phen
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I was thinking about doing this. Theres a pretty good DIY tutorial up.
Where do you have your foglight ballasts mounted, Patrick?
Driver side is mounted to the same bracket as my horn, passenger side there is a random hole on the frame that I just bolted it to.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123708442-HOW-TO-Indepandant-fogs-without-running-a-wire-through-the-firewall
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123708442-HOW-TO-Indepandant-fogs-without-running-a-wire-through-the-firewall
Regarding the extreme temps... it's already going to do that in the winter, regardless of ducting. Plugging with snowy crap... yeah, that makes a ton of sense there! For some reason, I didn't think of that... even tho I was always covering the fogs on my P5 with snow/slush
i meant the fogs with my high beams. they were completely seperately switched.
Do you guys have any kind of aero data for your cars? I can't remember if it was the Neons or not that had a low pressure zone where the foglights were located. If that was the case for your cars, I'd lean more towards putting ducts in the rad opening. Also, Miatas have bolt on ducting available through the aftermarket, but it's only the sheet metal that surrounds the rotor and attaches to the hub. I believe track speed engineering offers them, if anyone wants an example. It forces the air from your ducting hose onto the rotor by shrouding around it.
Edit: also if you notice where 949racing places their ducting, it's closer to the middle of the car. Also note the tiny radiator opening. I guess this is the best compromise for aero while still allowing as much cooling as possible. I haven't had a chance to read up on it much but I'd imagine the concept is similar to having a "too big" exhaust on a stock car, as far as usable air coming in that opening vs surface area(not even sure if that's the right term).
Edit: also if you notice where 949racing places their ducting, it's closer to the middle of the car. Also note the tiny radiator opening. I guess this is the best compromise for aero while still allowing as much cooling as possible. I haven't had a chance to read up on it much but I'd imagine the concept is similar to having a "too big" exhaust on a stock car, as far as usable air coming in that opening vs surface area(not even sure if that's the right term).
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There's a lot of aero data floating around on the RX7. I recall seeing a 2D pressure map on a profile of a car so it shows the pressure distribution along the length of the car, but not its width. The ducts you're describing for the Miata sound an awful lot like the ones I posted for the RX7 a page back.
For radiator ducting the rule-of-thumb I always heard was you wanted the inlet to be 25-30% of the radiator area and then smoothly transition to the full size of the radiator. I figure the reason is two-fold:
1) Reduces the aerodynamic impact of having a large duct (huge drag)
2) Convective heat transfer for laminar flow is greater at lower velocities for air (to a certain point). That is you want the air traveling slow enough to pick up as much heat from the radiator as possible but not so slow that it "heat soaks" before it passes through the radiator. With the smaller inlet you're expanding the air as it enters the car, which reduces ites velocity (unless you're traveling at supersonic speeds) and therefore improving heat transfer.
I'm sure there's a lot more it than that but this is how I've rationalized it.
That sounds correct, unless of course you flip the switch to off for the fogs
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- 2016 GT ST 47A
Nope. I've done the same thing to my P5 and the fogs turn off when I turn the hi-beams on, so you are good to go.
