The Ohio Random Thread... aka We Should Probably Be Working
- Thread starter THE Phen
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PrinceValorum
Member
- :
- 95 626 FS, 89 Toyota Derux 4x4
As long as you're getting even wear on the rotor and it's not glazed or warped, etc, they should be good until they get to the minimum thickness, which should be specified on the inside of the rotor, iirc. Even if they are suffering from some of those issues, they can just be refaced by a machine shop and they'll be good to go for a while longer. They can get pretty thin usually, like 8-9mm before they need replacing, at least that's what I saw in a picture the other day.
PrinceValorum
Member
- :
- 95 626 FS, 89 Toyota Derux 4x4
Depends on if it's a vented or solid rotor, its diameter, and the type of use it sees. I tried to look it up and found no solid answer, in a Lexus shop manual there were about 100 different measurements that needed to be taken...
yea like lateral run out, center hole diameter, and you should always mic a rotor in 4 different places. but if you have any pitting of the rotor dont even bother trying to machine them. plus machining is an dying practice with rotors being so cheap nowadays it cost the same to replacing them vs machining
How rotors are not supposed to look:
<a href="http://s978.photobucket.com/albums/ae262/mzspeed3/Mobile%20Uploads/?action=view¤t=mms_picture_2-6.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i978.photobucket.com/albums/ae262/mzspeed3/Mobile%20Uploads/mms_picture_2-6.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s978.photobucket.com/albums/ae262/mzspeed3/Mobile%20Uploads/?action=view¤t=mms_picture-33.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i978.photobucket.com/albums/ae262/mzspeed3/Mobile%20Uploads/mms_picture-33.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Came off my mom's CX-7 last week--40,000 miles
<a href="http://s978.photobucket.com/albums/ae262/mzspeed3/Mobile%20Uploads/?action=view¤t=mms_picture_2-6.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i978.photobucket.com/albums/ae262/mzspeed3/Mobile%20Uploads/mms_picture_2-6.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s978.photobucket.com/albums/ae262/mzspeed3/Mobile%20Uploads/?action=view¤t=mms_picture-33.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i978.photobucket.com/albums/ae262/mzspeed3/Mobile%20Uploads/mms_picture-33.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Came off my mom's CX-7 last week--40,000 miles
Rockin03mp5
Member
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- '13 Mazda3 / '13 Edge / Your Mom
that will buff right out.
outside of rotor and pads are fine...just the inside looks like this. I'll probably post this up on the CX-7 section and see if it is a problem...
Oh, and it was my car for the first 30,000 miles....erm....let's just say I drove it a hell of a lot harder than I even drive my MS3. I really didn't care about that car, whereas I baby the MS3. I'm not going to lie, having 244 hp in an AWD SUV/Minivan is hellafun!
Oh, and it was my car for the first 30,000 miles....erm....let's just say I drove it a hell of a lot harder than I even drive my MS3. I really didn't care about that car, whereas I baby the MS3. I'm not going to lie, having 244 hp in an AWD SUV/Minivan is hellafun!
PrinceValorum
Member
- :
- 95 626 FS, 89 Toyota Derux 4x4
My buddy took an intro auto tech course and one of the brakes they they saw was in pretty bad shape. The pads were completely gone, and so was the backing. It was the piston that was pressing directly on the rotor and it had completely worn through the disks on both sides of the vents and had almost worn through the vents themselves. The lady reported a screechy sound when she used the brakes...
No comment.
No comment.
been there seen that. all of what you are seeing is lack of pad movement do to them get stuck in the caliper bridge's. im an A.S.E certified master tech. i have pretty much seen it all in my 15 years. factory does not lube their pad contact areas in the bridges and ppl just drive them like they stole it being brand new. i just fixed a 2010 honda pilot cause of that problem bad thing is the dealer will not fix it due to it being a "wearable item" no warranty on brakes or clutchs due to being a wearable item
I change my rotors every time I change my pads... but that's typically because the pads that I use destroy rotors by the end of their life.
My P5 has had a variety of pad / caliper issues. I've gone metal on metal more times than I care to remember in the rear. The caliper was so ****** that it ran the pad down in under a year.
My P5 has had a variety of pad / caliper issues. I've gone metal on metal more times than I care to remember in the rear. The caliper was so ****** that it ran the pad down in under a year.
my calipers keep sticking on the speed, causing me to run through pads and rotors...at 48k, replaced the rears twice (no autox or track) actually don't think i've replaced the fronts....
maybe i have...i don't remember...
maybe i have...i don't remember...
i've never heard of that being an issue
<--cx-7 mod and owner..
watch your mouth. the cx7 is no effing MINIVAN.
Rockin03mp5
Member
- :
- '13 Mazda3 / '13 Edge / Your Mom
funny... i havent touched the brakes in the 4 years, 64000 miles i have owned the p5. then again, i rarely use them. 
mostly interstate driving. one day, if i time things really well, i could probably get to work without using the brakes at all!
mostly interstate driving. one day, if i time things really well, i could probably get to work without using the brakes at all!
j/kfunny... i havent touched the brakes in the 4 years, 64000 miles i have owned the p5. then again, i rarely use them.
mostly interstate driving. one day, if i time things really well, i could probably get to work without using the brakes at all!
i had 75000+ miles on mine, and the pads still had atleast half life all around haha (just glazed as hell from a few autocross events)
