The Ohio Random Thread... aka We Should Probably Be Working

[thejeans]

id say go 17s for track duty if for no other reason than tires are a touch cheaper than 18s haha or you could end up finding a set of 18s for a really good deal and deem them worth the little extra for tires

its really going to come down to what you find and how good of a deal it is haha


that being said the msr's wont work to well for our cars.. youd probably have to roll and pull fenders to keep from rubbing

 

[Evan9999]

id say go 17s for track duty if for no other reason than tires are a touch cheaper than 18s haha or you could end up finding a set of 18s for a really good deal and deem them worth the little extra for tires

its really going to come down to what you find and how good of a deal it is haha


that being said the msr's wont work to well for our cars.. youd probably have to roll and pull fenders to keep from rubbing

I'm already rolled in the rear, do you think the offset is too much?

 

[thejeans]

its a +38 thats pushing it for our cars...

it can be done im just telling you dont be shocked if you need to roll more and or slightly pull the fenders more to keep them from rubbing

gonna be about a half inch closer to the fenders than your rx8 wheels are

 

[Rockin03mp5]

you can never be too low or have too much offset.

 

[Evan9999]

its a +38 thats pushing it for our cars...

it can be done im just telling you dont be shocked if you need to roll more and or slightly pull the fenders more to keep them from rubbing

gonna be about a half inch closer to the fenders than your rx8 wheels are

Hmm...I don't think there's even a half inch of space now with the RX8s...I'll have to try to measure at lunch time.

 

[WillD]

The wheels in question are actually +35 according to the OP and post #9. The wheels I have on my car are 18x8 +40 with 225/40/18 tires:

So basically you're only looking at a .2" wider setup than what I have on my car right now and I believe there is room for that. But it's definitely pushing it.

I agree with thejeans as far as just running what you have by the way. Just get a new set of extreme performance summer tires after the next track day and continue to have fun! (2thumbs) Who wants to have the same set of performance tires for more than 1-2 seasons anyways!?

That said, after only 10 track days I had a set of Hoosiers so I'm a hypocrite! If you do get a set of track wheels, take a peek at Nitto NT-01's. They will have good grip all the way down to the cords, and give way more feedback than my Hoosier R6's did. I honestly believe they are faster than R6's after 6-8 heat cycles on each of them too.

Edit: Why not pick these up? http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...40-18-Ventus-V12-TPMS-(3-good-wheels-one-bent) You'd probably have to buy 1 new Rota Torque and then you'd have a track set and new-ish set of tires to use up before you move to R-comps?

 

[Perro del Sol]

The wheels in question are actually +35 according to the OP and post #9. The wheels I have on my car are 18x8 +40 with 225/40/18 tires:

So basically you're only looking at a .2" wider setup than what I have on my car right now and I believe there is room for that. But it's definitely pushing it.

I agree with thejeans as far as just running what you have by the way. Just get a new set of extreme performance summer tires after the next track day and continue to have fun! (2thumbs) Who wants to have the same set of performance tires for more than 1-2 seasons anyways!?

That said, after only 10 track days I had a set of Hoosiers so I'm a hypocrite! If you do get a set of track wheels, take a peek at Nitto NT-01's. They will have good grip all the way down to the cords, and give way more feedback than my Hoosier R6's did. I honestly believe they are faster than R6's after 6-8 heat cycles on each of them too.

Will is right, NT-01 are the wat to go and they do last a long time and are faster than Hoosiers after the 6-8 heat cycles and when they're new you can drive them to the event. They're not to bad in the rain when they are new as well. Evan #1 has my old NT-01's, he can give you some feed back after he get them on track in the P5.

 

[WillD]

I had to drive them home from Nelson last weekend and got caught in the rain. I was pleasantly surprised. I might even consider driving them on a wet track as long as there is no standing water in the future.

 

[rally2003]

Is Evan's build done yet? I wanna ride.

 

[Evan9999]

The wheels in question are actually +35 according to the OP and post #9. The wheels I have on my car are 18x8 +40 with 225/40/18 tires:

So basically you're only looking at a .2" wider setup than what I have on my car right now and I believe there is room for that. But it's definitely pushing it.

I agree with thejeans as far as just running what you have by the way. Just get a new set of extreme performance summer tires after the next track day and continue to have fun! (2thumbs) Who wants to have the same set of performance tires for more than 1-2 seasons anyways!?

That said, after only 10 track days I had a set of Hoosiers so I'm a hypocrite! If you do get a set of track wheels, take a peek at Nitto NT-01's. They will have good grip all the way down to the cords, and give way more feedback than my Hoosier R6's did. I honestly believe they are faster than R6's after 6-8 heat cycles on each of them too.

Edit: Why not pick these up? http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...40-18-Ventus-V12-TPMS-(3-good-wheels-one-bent) You'd probably have to buy 1 new Rota Torque and then you'd have a track set and new-ish set of tires to use up before you move to R-comps?

Ya I saw that and I'm considering doing that.

My main issue is that I drive A LOT (about 3,000 a month). Because of this, I don't want to be running the same tires for the street and track. Since I daily drive the RX8 wheels, the tires have seen a lot of mileage already. Combined with the track days, I have very very little tread on the fronts and a little bit left on the rears. I don't want to buy new tires because I got these Kumhos about 4 months ago brand new. They have about 10,000 miles on them and somewhere around 150 track miles.

I want to find a set of wheels with good tires already mounted, that way I don't have to spend the extra $100 to get new tires mounted. (Plus those Nittos will cost a little under $800)

 

[princess peach]

my enkeis are 35 and if I don't set the coils to full stiff the tire will touch the fender... don't remember if you saw that at mid ohio, I was fine at the ledges (but I wasn't pushing it). They stick out a little bit so I would suggest another offset with your suspension, especially if you're considering slicks. My paradas were screaming most of the way at mid ohio, and part of the ledges, the slicks are a big change and I'm still not pushing them all the way, trying to little by little.

more seat time with your current tires would be better but dude, you were going faster than me at the ledges. were you seriously struggling to keep up in the corners (not counting the keyhole)?

 

[fishdonotbounce]

I'm completely interjecting in the middle of the convo here but...

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...van-Phen-and-now-Ivan!!&p=5716504#post5716504

 

[Evan9999]

my enkeis are 35 and if I don't set the coils to full stiff the tire will touch the fender... don't remember if you saw that at mid ohio, I was fine at the ledges (but I wasn't pushing it). They stick out a little bit so I would suggest another offset with your suspension, especially if you're considering slicks. My paradas were screaming most of the way at mid ohio, and part of the ledges, the slicks are a big change and I'm still not pushing them all the way, trying to little by little.

more seat time with your current tires would be better but dude, you were going faster than me at the ledges. were you seriously struggling to keep up in the corners (not counting the keyhole)?

Ya the tires were having a hard time with some of those longer corners. They got better after I got the tire pressures correct after the 3rd run. I think if the tires were new, they would have been great. I was understeering badly the whole time because the front tires had way less tread than the rears. (I was supposed to be rotating them that oil change, but decided to not do it. The new rear sway plus less tread in the rear would have made me oversteer too much probably). Maybe I'm just asking the tires to do more than they're supposed to do?? I even remember having a little bit of a hard time keeping up with you the first session around some of the long corners when you had the White wheels on. What tires were on those, and how do they compare to Kumho Ecsta MX KU15? It's possible my tire pressures were causing the issue.

 

[WillD]

Evan maybe try a little higher pressure in the rears? One of my buddies that autocrosses his Speed3 really jacks the pressures up on the rear tires to get it to rotate.

 

[Evan9999]

Evan maybe try a little higher pressure in the rears? One of my buddies that autocrosses his Speed3 really jacks the pressures up on the rear tires to get it to rotate.

It seemed like the rears didn't get that hot. The fronts were REALLY hot...doing most of the work. I'll try that next time. I only have the rear sway on the medium stiffness setting.

I'm going to be looking at those 18x8 35 offset TSW wheels I posted in person. He's located near Cleveland. I PMd him to see if I can look at them and test fit a few wheels first before buying.

 

[Perro del Sol]

Randy Pobst told me the same thing a few years back, to have the rears higher than the front to help the car rotate better. Also, Evan, you don't have any neg camber up front and that will hellp you in the corners as well.

 

[Evan9999]

Randy Pobst told me the same thing a few years back, to have the rears higher than the front to help the car rotate better. Also, Evan, you don't have any neg camber up front and that will hellp you in the corners as well.

I'll have to try raising the rears higher than the fronts next time. I think I was keeping the fronts about 1psi higher at Nelsons.

Ya that's true about the camber, stock suspension doesn't help. That might be changing in the near future though.

 

[WillD]

If it were me I'd try putting the rear bar on the stiffest setting as well.

 

[WillD]

My 2 fastest laps from Nelson Ledges this past weekend: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3mnNwmuFa1k

#1 = 1:26.44
#2 = 1:26.66

 

[princess peach]

my white wheels have Yokohama Parada Spec 2 but they're pretty worn on the inside, I have no idea how they compare to yours. considering how your pads looked when you swapped them out I'm thinking you might still using the brakes too much, that's why your pressure was so high in the front (this + understeer). When I swapped my pads I was close to 40k miles and had at least 2/3 of life left on them, I don't have a turbo but you know how I drive.

Higher pressure in the rears will help you rotate but at least for me I can rotate fine with all 4 at the same pressure AND the rear sway set to soft which is pretty much your medium setting, also I gain around 4 PSI evenly after a run with the slicks but I don't know what that says about my driving. I don't think you should increase stiffness on your RSB yet, play a little with the pressure first or it might be too much and bite you in the ass. With the Yokohamas I was shooting to have 34 PSI tops all around after a run, for you I would shoot for 32 at the front and 35/36 at the rear. Next time check what the pressure is before your first run to see how much you're gaining, again I'm gaining 4 all around but I would guess you're gaining at least 6 in front