chriscecc914
Member
- :
- 06 MS6
were trying to fix my issues in this thread, not talk about what ems is better and what it can and can't do. If you guys want to argue please start a new thread. thanks!
Chris
Chris
The MS6 Build-a-Beast is coming very soon...(Pics)
- Thread starter chriscecc914
- Start date
dadasracecar
Member
I didn't like it when you said this:
This statement had no bearing on the current situation. It was meant to start something and it did.
mrlilguy157
Member
- :
- 07 mazdaspeed 3
it wasn't meant to start anything? its MAP clip and tuning tables and MAF scaler and what not are all creating more variables to be wreckened with???
you're losing your marbles! new thread or PM's if you want to further discuss, this is Chris's thread, not ours.
Chris, I hope all goes well and the tuning continues to head in a safe, productive direction. I'm sure Laloosh could help you through PM's or over the phone, or dada, if need be.
Be safe with the AFR's, 11.5:1 should be the leanest you go!
I hope you made a mistake with this statement as 11.5:1 would be very rich,not lean.A lean ratio would be more like 15.5:1.
The reason I state this is I would hate to see Chris be given the wrong information.
On another note,everyone quit fighting in Chris's thread.He has got his car down and has problems,if it doesn't pertain to helping fix his problem,take the BS somewhere else.
11.5 is as lean as i would go for a high hp high boost car. 15.1 is boom.
11.5 very rich ??? when 12's are going boom?
Maybe I missed something,aren't all the engines popping from lack of fuel flow causing a severe lean condition(as in the ballpark of 17:1)
Because the one we have in our shop right now apparently melted 2 pistons.
mrlilguy157
Member
- :
- 07 mazdaspeed 3
uh, 14.7:1 is perfect tune. Anything after that is too much air not enough fuel. Staying rich keeps engine temps down, and prevents pressure buildup from excessive air.
11.5:1 or 11:1 or richer
11.5:1 or 11:1 or richer
I would love to have seen the EGT on that 17:1 (shocked)
All the literature i have read 14.7 (stoich) is perfect. Boosted motors always tune richer to keep the combustion cooler. Im constantly hearing 12:1 is on the edge of making the best power but im with the 11.5 guys.
Last edited:
lol true
What kind of A/F ratios are you guys running?The reason I ask is that at some point around 7 or 8:1 you run the risk of fuel washing down past the rings and getting into the crankcase if I'm not mistaken.I ran 11:1 on my Supra and made more power than 6 or speed6 ever will.
We are still using gasoline and not nitromethane.
On top fuel cars,they run at 1.7:1 and they are on the verge of hydrolocking.
We are still using gasoline and not nitromethane.
On top fuel cars,they run at 1.7:1 and they are on the verge of hydrolocking.
The only point i was trying to make was that 11.5 is not "VERY RICH" for a boosted engine. More that it was where i feel safe tuning the car to.
***Ah i see where the confusion is laloosh said "11.5 is as lean i would go" He was basing this on the fact that we have seen WB readings in the high 9's under WOT ...going to 11.5 is moving to the "leaner side" He didnt mean that 11.5 was lean just where he thinks it safe for his car.
Last edited:
I understand your point and can appreciate it,but I would expect to see optimum numbers in the ballpark of 12:1 A/F in the speed 6 if the fuel flow problem is ever taken care of.
Hell yeah !!!!! i edetid my last post take a look
That's cool......LOL(friday)
That "lean" very relative ......lol
- :
- ‘19 CX-5 GTR Tu
Just to comment on a few things being said.
I am a beginner when it comes to tuning. But i have tuned numerous protege's in my time along w/ a couple of hondas.
12:1 A/F is normally what tuners shoot for with turbo cars...but thats with port injection..
We are unsure, with DISI, if 12:1 would be to lean. Lets remember that the main idea behind the director injection is the cooler temps due to better fuel atomization. Which is why mazda is able to keep the compression where it's at.
With Most turbo applications..the manufacturer likes to keep compression in the 8:1:1 range. See nissans & hondas for example.
As for the stand back/piggyback/whatever & dashhawk combo:
I would not trust what the dashhawk reads after the ems goes in. It's just taking readings from the ecu...and the standback is altering those signals before it reaches the ecu. So your data will be skewed.
I am a beginner when it comes to tuning. But i have tuned numerous protege's in my time along w/ a couple of hondas.
12:1 A/F is normally what tuners shoot for with turbo cars...but thats with port injection..
We are unsure, with DISI, if 12:1 would be to lean. Lets remember that the main idea behind the director injection is the cooler temps due to better fuel atomization. Which is why mazda is able to keep the compression where it's at.
With Most turbo applications..the manufacturer likes to keep compression in the 8:1:1 range. See nissans & hondas for example.
As for the stand back/piggyback/whatever & dashhawk combo:
I would not trust what the dashhawk reads after the ems goes in. It's just taking readings from the ecu...and the standback is altering those signals before it reaches the ecu. So your data will be skewed.
jcgemt2003
Member
- :
- 06 speed6
Ok, Chris I am running 12.5-12.8 WOT afr all day on my car and have been since the exed has been installed. Guess what? No problems. It doesnt matter what system you have they all are going to do the same thing (tune).
What you are trying to accomplish is more boost. More than 23psi and theres no way your gonna do that without a Boost controller. Be it manual or electric. I use a manual to hit 20psi and no problems. You just tell your tuner to lower the voltage on your clamps and listen to cpe or a cpe rep like dada in reguards to the standback. Its there system and they designed it. Let them give you the detailed advice you need. No offense to anyone but opinions are like assholes and it seems on this thread everyone has one.
What you are trying to accomplish is more boost. More than 23psi and theres no way your gonna do that without a Boost controller. Be it manual or electric. I use a manual to hit 20psi and no problems. You just tell your tuner to lower the voltage on your clamps and listen to cpe or a cpe rep like dada in reguards to the standback. Its there system and they designed it. Let them give you the detailed advice you need. No offense to anyone but opinions are like assholes and it seems on this thread everyone has one.
